UK supermarkets have declared an egg crisis as a result of avian flu and the summer heatwave, but those who want their regular fix of eggy options don’t have to suffer.
The solutions that supermarkets have mooted so far include egg rationing and higher prices, but there is another alternative that vegan chefs have been recommending for years: plant-based substitutes.
Eggs are an important ingredient because they serve multiple purposes in cooking and baking. They provide richness, structure and texture, as well as emulsifying and binding. They’re also a good source of protein and vitamins.
There are lots of effective substitutes that can enable consumers to avoid the egg shortage, as well as providing health benefits, reducing carbon emissions and eliminating the negative impact on animal welfare of industrial farming.
Alexis Gauthier, who runs Michelin-starred vegan restaurant Gauthier Soho, says in classical French cooking, egg use is split into whites and yolks. Egg whites, which are high protein and react easily to heat, are used for binding ingredients together and setting, while yolks are high in fat and cholesterol so they add “creamy smooth richness” to dishes.
Here are the egg swaps the chefs recommend.
Breakfast
One of the best known replacements for eggs in vegan cooking is the tofu scramble, which has a similar texture to scrambled egg, although it is usually mixed with spices to boost flavour.
At Gauthier’s casual restaurant 123V, he uses silken tofu to recreate scrambled eggs, adding turmeric for colour and kala namak, a black Himalayan salt readily available in south Asian supermarkets which has a subtle sulphurous aroma that resembles the taste of egg.
Roxy Pope, co-founder of So Vegan, says tofu is “a fantastic source of protein and calcium”, while fortified plant-based milks can be added to create a runnier texture and incorporate vitamin B12.
Bettina Campolucci Bordi, a plant-based chef, says you can also experiment with texture by choosing silken or firm tofu.
She recommends trying a chickpea scramble by squishing half a tin of chickpeas and leaving the remainder whole for texture, and cooking up with vegetables and a tomato sauce.
In the mornings, she also makes a chickpea omelette out of gram flour, bicarbonate of soda and apple cider vinegar, served with seasonal vegetables – quick, easy and much cheaper than eggs.
Burgers, patties and fritters
These dishes all use egg as a binder to stop the ingredients falling apart when they’re being fried.
The chefs recommend instead using a “flax egg”, which is made of ground flaxseeds soaked in water until they become gelatinous.
Ben Pook, co-founder of So Vegan, suggests combining this with oats and chickpea flour, which soak up moisture and prevent patties falling apart. Flaxseeds are also a good source of omega-3 fatty acids, which improve heart health.
Cakes and baking
Eggs make cakes taste rich and moist, but there are lots of hacks vegan bakers use that you can try.
Valentina Fois, who runs Lele’s vegan food consultancy, uses a ripe banana or chia seeds in her cakes, while Campolucci Bordi says any puree will work, including sweet potato, carrot or apple. Adding a dash of apple cider vinegar will make baked goods fluffier.
Aquafaba, the juice from a tin of chickpeas, is commonly used as an alternative to egg whites, although results can differ. Pope uses them for meringues, but warns they won’t stay as crispy for long, so should be eaten quickly.
Food influencer Samah Lakha makes a chocolate mousse using aquafaba instead of egg whites, although she says it is a better substitute for texture than taste.
Coconut milk, cashew butter and vanilla combined with maple syrup for sweetness will help dial up the richness, and can make an effective vegan custard thanks to the ingredients’ high fat content, she adds.
Fine dining
If you want to experiment with fine dining techniques, Gauthier uses potato protein to recreate egg white – he recommends Sosa’s products – in dishes such as macaroons. Instead of egg yolks, he uses pea protein – bought from Yumgo – in combination with rapeseed oil and rice flour to create curds, shortbreads and creamy sauces.
