One of my most important jobs as a beauty editor is to inform the masses of the harmful and truly damaging effects of UV rays on our skin. Every dermatologist, every doctor, every product formulator and every skin expert I have ever met (of which there are been thousands) has told me the same thing: not wearing sun cream with adequate SPF protection every single day will age and damage your skin at best and lead to skin cancer at worst.
I am all too aware of these risks, so wear a high-factor SPF50 facial sunscreen every. single. day. Even today, when the weather is drab and we haven't seen sunshine in what feels like 84 years, my face is slathered in SPF50. And yet, just two months ago, like so many of us, I was lying out on my balcony, purposefully lounging in the sun. Why? Because something about having those rays hit my skin feels so damn good. But I also know that, when I'm sunbathing, my skin's exposure to UV rays and getting sunburnt is increasing my risk of developing skin cancer. So much so that, when I lie out in the sun, I spend most of the time analysing my moles—it's like I'm waiting for all my years of tanning to catch up with me.
And as we move into autumn/winter, this has got me thinking—am I, a beauty editor who prides herself on straight talk, some sort of sun cream virtue signaller? What good am I actually doing by applying one layer of sun cream to my face in the depths of winter, only to expose my body to extreme UV rays come summer? In my quest to lead by example and do the 'right' thing as a beauty editor, have I lost sight of the overall goal of keeping my skin healthy?
A few months ago I saw wellness fanatics on social media start talking about supposed 'dangers' of sun cream application. I was inundated with posts that claimed sun cream to be toxic and also insisted that unprotected sun exposure is critical for our every day health. While my fellow beauty editors and other medically trained colleagues raged, I actually found myself quite fascinated by the whole thing. In a world of health and beauty absolutism, I wondered: Is it possible that daily sun exposure can be both good and bad for us at the same time—and, if so, where the hell do we go from here?
I started on a mission to answer this question six months ago, with the intention of publishing my findings within a few weeks—but that was wishful thinking. Since I started my research, the story has become bigger and bigger and bigger. I have found myself confused, conflicted, infuriated at the lack of clean-cut answers and, ultimately, also enraged by the growing momentum these 'anti-SPF' movements are garnering. I have spent days reading papers and hours upon hours speaking to dermatologists, product formulators, brand founders and people who sit on both sides of the SPF fence. Here's what I have managed to conclude...
1. Excessive exposure to UV rays *does* increase risk of skin cancer
Let's start with what I believe to be the most important truth (and I use this word in a scientific sense in that it is something we can be as close to certain about, given the information we have)—it is widely accepted in scientific, medical and cosmetic circles that high levels of UV exposure and skin cancers are linked.
"UV radiation can damage skin cells," says consultant dermatologist and Founder of Self London skin clinic, Dr Anjali Mahto. And this damage can take on different forms. From an aesthetic position, it can lead to premature ageing in the form of wrinkles, age spots and loss of elasticity. But when UV exposure is particularly high, there is a more much more serious risk. "Prolonged and unprotected exposure increases the risk of skin cancers, including basal cell carcinoma, melanoma and squamous cell carcinoma," she adds.
And, actually, this concept isn't widely disputed. Leading figures on both sides of the sun cream fence agree that there appears to be a direct correlation between increased UV radiation and an increased risk of skin cancer. So, applying sun cream simply helps limit that risk by reducing the amount of UV radiation we are exposing our skin to—makes sense. "As consultant dermatologists our emphasis on daily high-factor sunscreen application is rooted in evidence-based recommendations aimed at protecting skin health. Studies consistently show that regular sunscreen use reduces the risk of skin cancers and helps maintain healthier skin over time. It’s a no brainer, which is why we tout its benefits so much," says Dr Mahto.
The debates on whether or not sun cream should be applied every single day in the UK largely come down to other nuances that exist—most notably on how much UV exposure is deemed 'excessive', particularly when the sky is overcast.
2. Despite increased SPF awareness, skin cancer rates are rising
This is something that we really shouldn't be ignoring—yes, skin cancer rates are on the up, despite the fact awareness around the need for sun cream protection has also increased exponentially. Cancer Research UK reports a 147% rise in skin cancer incidence rates in the UK since the early 1990s. So, what on earth is going on?
"The increase in diagnosis rates of skin cancer in the UK can be attributed to several factors," says Dr Mahto. "Firstly, despite better awareness of sun safety, many people continue to engage in sun-seeking behaviours, including use of tanning beds, therefore increasing their UV exposure." And this is something I can very much believe. Sure, I apply SPF religiously, but I also partake in the beauty editor cardinal sin of sunbathing on the hottest days of the year. My daily facial sunscreen application in the depths of winter is not a Get Out Of Jail Free card that I can play when I sit for hours in the sunshine while the UV index is off the charts. Rather, it has just proved a way to fool myself into thinking I'm doing all I can to protect myself against skin cancer, when really, I'm not.
Beyond that, though, there's another potential reason rates are up—and it's important. "Secondly, significant advancements in medical technology and heightened awareness have led to more frequent and earlier diagnoses. Previously, a lot of skin cancer may have gone undetected/untreated. I think it’s important to note here too that treatment success rates for skin cancer have improved significantly. Early detection plays a crucial role in this, as catching cancer in its early stages increases the chances of successful treatment," explains Dr Mahto.
3. Sun exposure is good for us
Now we get onto one of the key arguments used against the notion of daily sun cream application—while too much UV radiation is linked to skin cancer, UV radiation is also considered to be good for us in certain doses. It is, for me, one of the main reasons I enjoy sun bathing so much—although, mind you, I've never found that applying sun cream reduces this joy. "There are a few ways in which sun exposure has several proven benefits for our health. The one most people know about is that it’s a primary source of vitamin D—this is essential for bone health, immune function and mood regulation," reveals Dr Mahto.
And while in the UK we are often recommended to supplement vitamin D throughout winter, when access to sunlight is limited, the sun is widely considered to be the easiest-to-access and most effective source of vitamin D. "It can be challenging to achieve optimal levels through diet and supplements alone," says Dr Mahto. "It's well documented that sunlight is the most efficient natural source of vitamin D, as the skin synthesises it upon exposure to UVB rays."
It is also worth noting here that sunlight is also thought to have other benefits for us, including helping to regulate our circadian rhythms (helping with sleep health) and improving our moods through production of serotonin.
4. Scientific studies aren't the oracles of truth
When Professor Tim Spector posted his thoughts on a recent scientific study on the importance of vitamin D in immune-dependent cancer resistance, the wellness world went mad. His post read: "Vitamin D regulates cancer immunity via microbiome – another reason to stop using SPF 50 all year round which blocks our natural defences."
Vitamin D regulates cancer immunity via microbiome- another reason to stop using SPF 50 all year round which blocks our natural defences https://t.co/Gw7vUtf8xDMay 12, 2024
Naturally, this post caused a flurry of media headlines and sparked hot debate on social media between those who fervently believe in religious SPF application and sun cream sceptics. However, a co-author of this study, Professor Caetano Reis e Sousa, soon weighed in, calling Spector's post a 'blatant misrepresentation' of their work.
This is a blatant misrepresentation of our work https://t.co/093sh0UUVF. Our study does not in any way suggest that the application of SPF50 sunscreen “blocks our natural defences” or is detrimental to health. https://t.co/T9PjUtP0f0May 13, 2024
Dr Mahto also has her thoughts on the study: "In a nutshell, the Giampazolias mice study highlighted the role of vitamin D in immune-dependent cancer resistance, but extrapolating these findings to humans requires caution. Vitamin D is absolutely crucial for immune function and sunlight is a significant source. However, high-factor sunscreen does not completely block UV radiation—it does allow some vitamin D production. The wellness absolutists' stance on avoiding sunscreen may neglect the broader context of skin health and cancer prevention—balancing sun protection with vitamin D needs is key."
And this is something scientific papers don't tend to caveat (because they are carried out on the premise that those interpreting the paper understand the nuances)—sun cream does not act as a total sun block. In labs, extremely high-factor sun cream is often administered in a way that does not mirror real-life scenarios. Scientific experiments exist to help discover new information that might not have previously been known within a community of individuals whose job it is to interpret and digest the findings, using their expertise.
To really understand this, I spoke with cosmetic scientist and brand founder, Sam Farmer. "Science is an ever-moving subject. All it does is keep showing us what we don’t know. The minute people start thinking of science as binary is dangerous. We are always learning. We are always discovering," he says. "People only hear what they want to hear. You believe the scientific paper that you want to believe and dismiss the one that counters it—but they are both correct. This is very true in cosmetics."
What does this highlight? Essentially, that scientific studies are not final and should not be used to imply that any view is undebatable—one paper is just a thought, but it take hundreds to form an opinion. Anyone using scientific papers to push any narrative towards daily sun cream application being absolutely wrong or absolutely right is probably not someone to be taking advice from.
5. Toxic ingredients aren't all they appear
While we're on the topic of science and the quest for discovery, it's important to highlight that this also applies to safety in sun cream. Another key argument that is used against daily application of sun cream is that the safety of sunscreen formulas is up for debate. Three months ago, while I was in the midst of researching this story, I was sent a Reel that was garnering attention. Posted by a beauty brand who sell what they call 'non-toxic sun cream', was a Reel that showed the founder of this brand approaching supermarket shoppers in the sun cream aisle of a supermarket and using an app to show that widely available sun creams are 'toxic'.
It's needless to say the comments section kicked off. While medical experts slammed the post for spreading misinformation and being dangerous and irresponsible, supporters of the 'clean beauty' movement praised the brand's supposed 'honesty'. I addressed this post with Sam to get his thoughts on the rise of concerns around 'toxic' ingredients. "You see these things on social media because they get the shares—and it’s always the negative take on the argument. It’s boring to say that cosmetics are regulated—no one wants to hear that. But it's true, cosmetic safety is a well oiled machine," he says.
What he goes on to explain to me is truly eye-opening. "The confusion for the consumer comes down to lazy use of scientific terminology, such as toxin and toxic. Toxins are only created in nature. They are things like nettle stings, bee stings, snake venom, mushrooms etc. They are all over the place. Billions of years has led to animals and plants creating them to protect themselves against being attacked," he reveals. "However, when something is toxic, any given things has simply reached a certain level where it can do you harm. Drinking six-litres of water in an hour might kill you, but having water in your shampoo won’t—it’s all about the dose."
The truth is, no ingredient can be deemed 'toxic' without context of its dosage. "All ingredients within cosmetic products must be safe, and ingredients are regularly reviewed by independent scientists to ensure that the latest scientific information is taken into account. The UK Cosmetics Regulation (UKCR) contains extensive annexes of banned and restricted substances," reveals Sam. "The safety assessment takes account of all the ingredients used in the cosmetic product, how the product will be used, by whom, where and how often."
And when it comes to the apps I mentioned earlier? Well, all is not as it seems. "Apps that claim certain ingredients to be harmful to our health often do not take into account how ingredients are used within the product and how we are exposed to them. The information only considers the hazard properties of chemicals, which means the effects they can have at very high levels, or if ingested rather than applied to the skin," explains Sam.
6. Sun cream regulation is ever-evolving
Just because regulation exists, doesn't mean it isn't subject to change. Commercial Director at Skin & Me, Alex Goddard, knows first hand what it is like to launch hardworking skincare (and a sun cream) in the UK market. "When we go through the formulation process, the main safety net for consumers is that we only formulate with ingredients that have been proven to be safe by European and UK regulators. There are very clear lists of ingredients, inclusion levels, required precautions and safety instructions around these materials that you have to adhere to," he reveals.
However, it is worth noting these lists are not set in stone forever—they do get tweaked. "If they do find a reason, either via complaints or new research that suggests the safety profile might have changed, then they will review the regulation. There are always tweaks and changes to regulation. Sun cream regulation is rigorous in terms of getting it onto the market, but the regulatory requirements stop there if you don’t make tweaks to the formulation," adds Alex.
This is the case with common filters such as oxybenzone. "It has raised some concerns due to its potential (and I use the word potential, here) hormone-disrupting effects. While some studies suggest potential risks, much more evidence is needed before we can put a blanket statement on oxybenzone being dangerous. At present, regulatory agencies, including the FDA and EU, have deemed it safe within specified limits," says Dr Mahto. "However, if consumers are concerned about oxybenzone there’s the option to choose alternative ingredients, such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide."
In short? Regulation is strict and regulators use the best scientific evidence available to make cautious decisions on safety—if new research comes out that shows to be unflawed and genuine cause for concern, regulations are adapted.
My conclusion
Truthfully, I set out on this investigation in a bid to get some answers. Do we really need to apply SPF every single day, rain or shine? For starters, I can confirm that I absolutely, categorically must stop sunbathing in the summer—but I already knew that. My indecisiveness is more around whether or not I need to apply facial sunscreen every day, even in the winter.
Personally, I have come to the conclusion that, in my opinion (having looked at so, so much information), it's probably not doing me any harm to continue with daily application. But, truth be told, my main taking from this investigative journey is that protecting your skin with sun cream – in whatever form that sun cream comes in, providing it has been approved by regulators – when it needs it most is imperative.
My other key piece of advice? Always, always listen to the health authorities and question anything you see on social media with critical analysis. "I think that while debates around sunscreen can be complex and influenced by various interests, prioritising evidence-based practices and informed decision-making can guide us towards healthier sun habits. By emphasising education, critical thinking, and public awareness, we can navigate the nuances of sun protection effectively and promote optimal health outcomes for all," concludes Dr Mahto. And I think that sums everything up quite nicely, indeed.
