If you’ve ever had the misfortune of trying to find sensible skincare advice on TikTok, you may have stumbled across a trend in which influencers encourage their followers to skip sunscreen. The spurious grounds for their strike on SPF vary but often centre around the idea that vitamin D can only be generated via unprotected skin, that our forefathers didn’t have sunscreens so surely we don’t actually need it, and that the chemicals are purportedly dangerous.
I’ll quickly debunk all three. First, no sunscreen is 100 per cent effective so you’ll still generate some vitamin D, and taking supplements is much better than accruing sun damage. Remember too that in the UK the sun is only strong enough to prompt your body to produce vitamin D between April and September so you will need some other plan to get enough of it (I supplement year round).
Second, yes, sunscreen was invented in the Thirties by a mountaineer — but so what? Penicillin first emerged in the Twenties and I sure as hell am glad my time came after that. The notion that cancer was less prevalent back then having anything to do with sun cream doesn’t bear weight when you consider other lifestyle changes that have occurred since and the impact they have on health.
Finally, the concern about chemicals is not relevant here, because SPF doesn’t penetrate your skin — it is designed to sit on the surface warding the sun’s rays off.
The pros of SPF, however, have been proven thoroughly and repeatedly over time. They primarily fall into two categories: that of reducing the likelihood of developing skin cancer, and that of preventing premature ageing. An SPF face cream should be worn all year round, but it’s a non-negotiable during the summer. But which factor should we choose? Clinical aesthetician Pam Marshall says: “There really isn’t a huge difference between factor 30 and factor 50 — they both protect against UVB at 97 per cent and 98 per cent respectively.” But broad spectrum protection is non-negotiable. “SPF denotes UVB ray protection levels which are responsible for skin cancer and burning, but UVA is the ageing ray, so make sure whatever you buy something where the UVA protection offered is high.”
When navigating whether to choose a mineral or ‘chemical’ sunscreen, cosmetic scientist Sam Farmer advises that, “physical filters such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide sort of scatter UV light, though they may feel slightly heavier and can leave a white cast, while the other type of sunscreen — often referred to as ‘chemical’ — absorbs UV light and doesn’t leave any white cast, though it may be trickier for those with sensitive skin.” He explains that “both go through the exact same system to be awarded a UV rating so don’t worry too much about picking between the two — just make sure you use it every day.”
That includes when it’s cloudy and when sitting by the windows indoors or driving in your car. Dr Sonia Khorena, Hero Cosmetics’ GP and dermatology expert simply says: “If you’re exposed to UV rays, wear it — and remember that UV rays can still pass through cloud cover.”
Marshall is keen to hammer home some SPF rules. “Please apply at least half a teaspoon to your face, after whatever your final hydrating product is. Technically you should reapply every two hours, but realistically no one does that so do try to top up (at least when you’re at the beach) and be smart about sun — wear a hat, walk on the shady side of the street, and don’t lie in the full midday sun. Finally, if you get spots during the summer, it may not be the SPF but the sweat — though if you are suffering, never use a body SPF on your face, and remember to cleanse properly after wearing SPF.”
But which to buy? These are the hottest SPFs on the market right now.
Best for glowing skin: Ultraviolette Queen Screen SPF 50+ Luminising Skinscreen Serum
If ever I have a big occasion where I want my skin to look backlit, this goes on. It’s a silky slip of a serum that makes skin look like it’s had a nice long drink of skincare.
Buy now £38.00, Cult Beauty
Best for skin prone to redness: Rosalique 3-in-1 Anti-Redness Miracle Formula
Someone with rosacea recently told me that this SPF containing calming ingredients alongside green pigments to neutralise redness had meant that she felt she could ditch her foundation. I get it: redness can be fiendishly difficult to cover, this neutralising approach is an effective one-stop-shop for anyone suffering.
Buy now £29.99, Rosalique
The highlighter-slash-SPF: Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Dew Balm SPF 30
This SPF 30 is tucked into an exceptionally good highlighting balm, making this a great summer buy for those who like me love glow but also want to make sure that skin is protected properly.
Buy now £27.00, Cult Beauty
Best for speedy top ups — and hairlines: E.L.F. Suntouchable All Set For Sun SPF30
Neglect your hairline and the tops of your ears at your peril — both are oft-forgotten and skin cancer prevails in those areas. This makes targeting tricky areas easy and can be spritzed over make-up for the easiest top-up going.
Buy now £14.00, Boots
The powder-slash-SPF: Supergoop (Re)setting 100% Mineral Powder SPF 30
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If you hate the sheeny shininess that accompanies warmer weather and clings to face powder, you need to know about this powder SPF that not only combines both a powder to mop up oils that’ll protect your skin, but it also has a handy brush with which to apply said powder. If you worry about your hair looking greasy with sunscreen in the parting, this would be a clever way to protect that area too.
Buy now £29.00, Cult Beauty
The eco one: Haekels Seaweed Solar Protect SPF 50+
Texturally very pleasing, a serum-oil hybrid that cossets skin and makes it feel properly soft. The Evening Standard’s fashion director Victoria Moss is a convert for its ability to protect and moisturise without irritating skin. But there’s an additional charm: the primary ingredient is seaweed found on the Kent coastline, with Haeckels being B Corp Certified for their efforts to preserve the environment while making excellent products.
Buy now £45.00, Haekels
The ultimate velvet finish: Tatcha Silk Screen SPF 50
I’ve never used a sunscreen that simultaneously blurs and makes skin look radiant without any grease — but then not every SPF has been formulated under the guidance of A-list make-up artist Daniel Martin. In his words, it creates a “hydrated, glowing, silky base”. I quite agree.
Buy now £65.00, Space NK
The completely see-through one: Allies of Skin The One SPF 50 Invisible Sunscreen Gel
If you worry about sunscreen leaving a whisper of colour on your skin, get your hands on this. The Allies of Skin gel is completely clear, but hydrating thanks to the aloe and raspberry seed oil in the mix.
Buy now £43.00, Allies of Skin
The one for your lips: Malin+Goetz SPF Lip Balm
Skin cancer can occur on the lips too, so it’s worth making sure they’re protected. This balm will protect while nourishing with vitamin E.
Buy now £15.02, Space NK
The body one: Heliocare Body Glow
I recently wore this on holiday and was astonished by two things: 1) it made me look subtly and believably more glowing and less pasty, and 2) it wasn’t greasy and held fast. Fans of Heliocare will know this is par for the course with their products, and skin experts love the brand for that very reason.
Buy now £28.99, Dermacare Direct
The one that won't sting your eyes: HydroPeptide Solar Dew
Offering 100 per cent mineral protection in the most lightweight nearly whipped formula, my sensitive eyes have yet to protest when applying this.
Buy now £58.00, Face the Future
The best for sensitive skin: E45 Sensitive Face Cream SPF 50+
This nourishing, soothing cream is ideal if your skin is sensitive and reactive, and E45 worked with dermatologists to ensure it was suitable for those with eczema — but it works just as well on acne.
Buy now £9.74, Boots
