Breakfast normally means porridge, but what are the alternatives in spring?
It’s a truth universally acknowledged that most breakfast binds can be solved with oats. But when porridge doesn’t float your boat, it’s got to be bircher muesli or overnight oats. “I have always been a bit rude about overnight oats,” says Will Bowlby, co-founder of Kricket, whose Shoreditch arm recently launched a breakfast menu. “But when the weather is warm, soaking oats in coconut water, mixing them with jaggery, then throwing in things like fresh coconut, rhubarb or raspberries is a really nice alternative to porridge.”
And it’s those extras that will set your oats apart, says Nia Burr of Esters in north London. “Flavour a big batch of yoghurt at the beginning of the week with honey and some kind of citrus, such as lime or blood orange, and make a rhubarb compote,” she says. “We then top it all off with a polenta-based crumb mixed with pumpkin seeds [though any nuts or seeds would be delicious.” Keep all the different elements separate, “so it doesn’t become stodgy”, then simply build your bowl in the morning. Alternatively, Bowlby would strain Greek yoghurt overnight (“it makes it really luscious”) and mixes with condensed milk and fresh vanilla. “Serve it with poached fruit and granola – we roast oats, almonds, cashews, barberries, coconut, orange juice and jaggery.”
If you’ve got a few slices of bread, you’re also minutes away from breakfast. “The base has to be sourdough or pitta toasted on both sides with a little oil,” says Hisham Assaad, author of Bayrut. When it comes to toppings, though, you have many options: “Labneh with sliced tomatoes, sumac and pomegranate molasses or balsamic vinegar; hummus or muhammara topped with a fried or poached egg, or a sliced boiled one.” And if you want to push the boat out at the weekend, Assaad makes his toast part of a platter, alongside chickpeas with yoghurt, tahini and garlic topped with toasted nuts, and perhaps a little parsley, paprika and cumin. “Or top hummus with fried mince, then mash and warm some fava beans and dress with olive oil, lemon juice and salt, then add some chopped tomatoes and parsley.”
You can never have too many egg recipes up your sleeve, either, and Burr has been making a lot of frittatas of late, particularly kuku sabzi to eat with yoghurt, za’atar and toast. That same Persian omelette is also good for using up a glut of herbs. Guardian columnist Tom Hunt softens leeks and/or spring onions in butter or oil, then wilts 350g mixed herbs and greens (think parsley, dill, coriander, carrot tops, spinach, lettuce) – “If you’re short of fresh herbs, add a tablespoon or two of dried instead.” He then mixes six eggs with a teaspoon each of turmeric and baking powder, some chopped walnuts, a tablespoon of barberries and some seasoning, then combines with the greens. Cook in a hot frying pan until set, then pop under a hot grill for about five minutes, until set.
Another cracking (sorry) idea is eggs bhurji, AKA masala scrambled eggs, says Bowlby. “Cook them with butter, cumin seeds, curry leaves, tomatoes and green chilli, then make a little green chutney by blending wild garlic, coriander, oil and lemon juice.” Spread the chutney on toasted sourdough, top with the eggs and finish with grated cheddar. Now that’s guaranteed to make your morning.
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