Retinoids, retinol, retinaldehyde, Retin-A—chances are you’ve heard at least one of these terms on your skincare journey. While all of the above are ever-so-slightly different (don’t worry, we’re breaking it all down), every vitamin-A derivative under the retinol umbrella shares a few key factors. Whether you're using a retinol cream, retinol eye cream, or a retinol serum, they will speed up skin cell turnover, even skin texture, brighten skin, provide anti-aging benefits (bye bye, fine lines), and, in some cases, help address acne. Basically, retinol can be the superhero of skincare.
But unfortunately, it’s not all rainbows and butterflies. Some skin types can’t tolerate it—even over-the-counter options can leave skin too dry, flaky, and irritated to continue use.
Still, there are application tips and tricks to minimize irritation, along with gentler alternatives, like bakuchiol, that give similar results. To get the down low on all the things (seriously, we left no retinol stone unturned), keep reading. We’ve tapped the pros to get into all the nitty-gritty details.
What Is Retinol?
If you walk the aisles of Sephora, you’ll see plenty of retinol night serums, retinol eye creams, and other potent retinol creams. “Retinol refers to a type of retinoid or vitamin A derivative that’s available over-the-counter,” explains board-certified dermatologist Marisa Garshick, MD FAAD. “It’s a key ingredient when it comes to skin-aging and has scientific support that it helps to boost collagen and improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots.”
Now, here’s the catch. Retinol is a weaker version of a retinoid, which is only available via a prescription. Board-certified dermatologist Sapna Palep, MD FAAD, explains that retinoids exist as retinoic acid and can easily find their little receptors in the skin to work some anti-aging magic. Retinol however requires a little TLC to be effective. It needs to be converted into retinoic acid with a helping hand from other ingredients (read: enzymes and proteins) to achieve the same, albeit toned down, effect.
Dilution isn’t necessarily a bad thing, though. “Retinol can take longer to take effect but is often less irritating on the skin than a retinoid,” says Dr. Garshick. “This can make them a little more tolerable than a prescription alternative.”
Different Types of Retinoids
There are a wide range of vitamin A derivatives that come in different mediums (read: cream, gel, foam) and concentrations. For example, a 0.1 percent retinoid (aka something from your dermatologist) is going to be much stronger than a 1 percent over-the-counter retinol. Work with your dermatologist to find the best option for your skin.
Retinoids
This tops the pyramid in terms of efficacy. Dr. Palep explains that there are four different types of retinoids: Tretinoin, Tazerotene, Trifarotene, and Adapalene. The most well-known of the bunch is Tretinoin. “Tretinoin is the OG. We have so many studies on tretinoin because it’s been around for so long. There’s no ifs, ands, or buts on if Tretinoin works,” Dr. Palep explains, noting that most retinoid studies are done with Tretinoin. With that in mind, she rarely prescribes it because it has a tendency to be more irritating when compared to something like Tazarotene or Trifarotene. Then, there’s Adapalene. “It’s the only retinoid that you can purchase over-the-counter,” she adds. It’s available via Differin and La-Roche Posay, among others.
Ideal for acne, a pea-sized amount of product will help clear up blackheads, whiteheads, and clogged pores overtime. It's notably non-greasy, oil-free, and fragrance-free, which makes it an ideal pick for all skin types.
This adapalene isn't just for your face. Use a drop on your back or chest to combat body acne, too.
Retinaldhyde
Retinal, not to be confused with retinol, is just a step below retinoids in terms of strength. “Retinaldehyde is considered more potent than retinol because retinaldehyde requires fewer steps to be converted to retinoic acid as compared to retinol, but is more gentle than a prescription alternative,” says Dr. Garshick. “It helps to regulate skin cell turnover, prevents pores from becoming clogged, and improves overall skin tone and texture while boosting collagen production.”
Fast acting retinal and niacinamide combine to create a lightweight, non-tacky serum that helps even skin tone in just a few weeks. I personally noticed a huge change in my nose pores when I used this consistently.
With a mix of high-grade actives and hydrating ingredients like glycerin and hyaluronic acid, this retinol cream is one of the best for dry skin that still wants to reap the retinol benefits.
Retinol
This one is by far the most common. You’ll see this ingredient (peep the spelling) just about everywhere. The benefits are the same (read: anti-aging, brightening, exfoliating, evening), but it requires more conversion and will take longer to have a noticeable effect. Retinol, while available in concentrated creams from companies like SkinCeuticals, is also commonly used as an ingredient in OTC moisturizers or serums.
A dermatologist and celebrity favorite, this one percent retinol treatment is well equipped to treat photo damage, fine lines, and sun spots. It's pretty heavy duty, so if you're new to retinol make sure to explore the brand's lower concentrations.
Best for dark spots and uneven texture, this one percent retinol cream is balanced with a handful of hydrating ingredients—like peptides and vitamin F—so the skin stays calm, moisturized, and irritation-free.
Retinyl Palmitate
According to board-certified dermatologist Mona Gohara, MD FAAD, this is going to be the best bet for anyone with dry or sensitive skin. It’s considered the most gentle in the list, and will cause less irritation. Reason being? "It's not as active and it's not as strong of a form [of a retinoid]," adds board-certified dermatologist Robert Finney, MD FAAD. While the vitamin A derivative will still help shed skin cells, increase brightness, and offer antioxidant protection, the benefits of retinyl palmitate will be scaled down as it's the weakest distillation of retinoic acid.
This is my number one most recommended product. The lightweight retinol, which is fortified with additional AHAs, doesn't just help resurface the skin—it also provides a gorgeous, glowy finish to the skin and creates an added radiance come morning.
A vegan formulation, Derma-E created a retinal palmitate product that can be used both morning and night (just remember to wear your SPF). It's packed with nourishing oils and calming vitamin E too, so it's a great pick for dry and sensitive skin.
The Benefits of Retinoids and Retinol
Buckle up: There are plenty of benefits to retinoids and retinol. But all of the positives come down to one key factor—the ingredient’s ability to regulate skin cell turnover, which slows down as we age. “The retinoids help keep the cell turnover in the cycle that it should be,” says Dr. Palep.
Anti-Aging
Retinol isn’t going just to smooth out existing fine lines and wrinkles, it’s also going to help prevent new ones from forming. “Up until your early 30s, your cells turn over every 28 days, creating a fresh layer of untouched, pristine skin,” says Dr. Gohara. “But after you hit your mid 30s, your cell regeneration slows down, turning over every 50, 60, or 70 days. That slower cell regeneration causes your face to look dry and wrinkled." Dr. Gohara explains that retinoids are able to speed up the cell turnover process in a way that makes your skin act like it’s your 20s. The result? Fresher, smoother skin.
Acne
“Because retinoids help to regulate skin cell turnover, it works to prevent pores from becoming clogged, which makes it an effective option for acne and breakouts,” explains Dr. Garshick. “It can also help to regulate sebum production, helping those with oily skin who may be prone to breakouts. Even after acne subsides, the retinol can also help with scarring, so it is important to continue use.”
Skin Tone and Texture
Even if you’re not on a mission to cure acne or fight the effects of aging, retinoids can still be a worthwhile addition to your routine. They can essentially just make your skin look, well, better. Think: More even, brighter, smoother. Dr. Palep explains that the stratum corneum, which is the outermost layer of the skin, can get really thick as time goes on and make everything look a little bleh. “Retinoids help keep the stratum corneum thinner, which allows you to have less dullness,” she explains. “Basically, sun damage, environmental damage, and free radicals don’t allow our cells to turn over the proper way. Retinoids help keep the cell turnover in the cycle that it should be.” As an added bonus, it’s also going to help reduce the look of post-inflammatory pigmentation and dark marks that can be left behind by pimples or sun damage.
The Drawbacks of Retinoids and Retinol
While the benefits are plentiful, retinol isn’t going to be everyone. Some people, namely those with sensitive skin or rosacea, won’t be able to tolerate the side effects. Others will be A-ok in the long run, but will have to deal with a period of retinization. “This is the time it takes for your skin to get used to the retinoid,” says Dr. Garshick. During this time, which is typically a six to eight-week period, the skin can be extra dry, flaky, irritated, and experience an influx of acne breakouts. “It’s normal, but if you are concerned about the appearance of your skin during this time, speak with a board-certified dermatologist.” (Doctor’s Note: Retinoids should not be used during pregnancy.)
Irritation
“Cell turnover is happening pretty rapidly, so you're going to see some flaking and light peeling. You can’t freak out—that’s part of the process,” warns Dr. Palep. While this is going to be the most common with prescription retinoids, it can also happen with over-the-counter retinols, which have become much stronger over the years.
While these side effects should subside as you work up your tolerance, they might be too intense for some. To mitigate irritation, you can try something called retinol sandwiching, in which you layer retinol between two layers of moisturizer. “There are a lot of studies showing that if you moisturize before your retinoid, you're getting as good of a clinical effect and you're decreasing your irritation,” says Dr. Palep. “I hear what the studies say, but as a dermatologist who does this day in and day out, I do find that there's a decrease in efficacy if you moisturize first.”
Purging Period
Unfortunately, your acne can get worse before it gets better. The increased cell turnover is going to bring everything to the surface. “I tell my patients exactly what their skin is going to look like and do extractions three weeks into the routine so I clear them all out. By week six, they’re happy campers,” says Dr. Palep. “When you get retinols over the counter, it doesn’t come with a dermatologist. A lot of it is about managing expectations.”
How to Incorporate a Retinoid or Retinol Into Your Skincare Routine
Slow and steady wins the retinol race. Do not—we repeat: Do not—start using retinoids every night; your skin will probably hate you. Dr. Palep recommends using your retinoid twice a week for two weeks, then three times a week for three weeks. Once your skin is accustomed to the frequency, you can add another night into the mix, so on and so forth. You’re going to apply a pea-sized amount of product onto the skin directly after washing your face at night. If you’re experiencing irritation, you can apply your retinoid after moisturizer.
It’s also important to keep your skincare routine simple when incorporating retinoids. “You can’t use 500 other things at the same time,” says Dr. Palep. You need to start off with a gentle cleanser, a great moisturizer, and remember to use sunscreen in the morning as retinoids make your skin more sensitive to the sun. “Once you’re in a good place, you can get a little fancy and add other things.”
Retinol Alternatives
If you’re finding that retinoids are too intense for your skin, want a natural alternative, or are pregnant, there are a handful of retinol alternatives that promise similar benefits. The most popular is bakuchiol. “Bakuchiol is derived from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia, also known as the babchi plant and is considered a plant-based retinol given it can also help to improve overall skin tone and texture,” explains Dr. Garshick.
To address the visible signs of aging, like fine lines, wrinkles, and dullness, your skin needs to be protected from environmental stressors. This lightweight, fast-absorbing serum does just that by shielding the skin from blue light and photodamage. A trio of hero ingredients, including Bakuchiol, Snow Algae, and Lingonberry Stem Cells, help to improve skin firmness, minimize the effects of oxidative stress, and slow the aging process for beautifully healthy skin at any age.
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived alternative to retinol that has been proven to be four times gentler and pregnancy safe. It's generally kinder to the skin and less irritating, but it still provides skin firming and wrinkle-reducing results.
Use this bakuchoil-based product for just 14 dyas and you'll start to see impressive results. The texture is rich and creamy to help balance out the potentially drying effects of the active ingredient, too.
