Expectations are high. After all you don't win Nottinghamshire Pub of the Year without being at the top of your game. The Radcliffe, which ticked all the boxes for judges from the National Pub & Bar Awards, has the feel of an old country inn with its simple black and white façade, leaded light windows, bunting and towering trees in the car park off Shelford Road.
However, inside is airy and modern, with a contemporary design transforming what was once a drinking den in Radcliffe-on-Trent into a destination gastro pub. On colder days there's a roaring fire but there's no need for that on a warm spring day and in the coming weeks the pub's sprawling beer garden and terrace is sure to be in demand.
The pub was judged on the owners' knowledge and overall execution, design, team training, investment, marketing, events and, last but not least, the food and drink. With such an accolade you know there won't be the ping of a microwave - the food is going to be crafted out of fresh, seasonal ingredients.
Read more: Nottinghamshire Pub of the Year: 'Stunning' place to eat and drink wins title
After a warm welcome, I'm asked which table I'd like in the restaurant while I wait for my companions to arrive so I choose one with a good view of the open kitchen where you can see the chefs putting the finish touches to plates at the pass. The set menu offers a good deal with three courses for £21 but certain dishes on the à la carte menu have a bigger pull.
Each one of the seven starters is tempting. In the end it's a toss up between crispy cod scampi and tiger prawns but anything with 'nduja (the often mispronounced spicy dark red Italian sausage) attracts me like a magnet. The chargrilled prawns come in their shells, smothered with vivacious 'nduja butter (it's pronounced 'n doo ya' but however you say it it's super tasty).
Don't order these unless you're prepared to get messy. Fortunately, there's a finger bowl for my buttery, herby fingers, which come from peeling the five fat juicy prawns. A squeeze of lime cuts right through the spiciness.
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The slice of focaccia they're served atop starts off crispy but soaks up the delicious butter along the way. At £9 it's the most expensive starter on the menu but I don't begrudge a penny.
The restaurant is half full on a Wednesday lunchtime and there's just one member of staff waiting on the tables but the speed of service is just right. We don't feel rushed and there's not a lengthy gap before the main courses arrive. There's fish and chips and a burger but after a 15-mile drive I'm here for something more adventurous.
My grilled lamb cutlets are nicely charred on the outside but pink inside, which is just how I like them, and each has a decent amount of succulent meat. There's added relish from the vivid green salsa verde and I'm grateful to the chef who made a special coriander-free version for me; I discovered to my peril that the garnish had coriander leaves but after one mouthful mishap I pushed it aside and it didn't spoil the meal.
The accompanying wedge of rosemary and thyme potato terrine is crisp on top with a melt-in-the-mouth middle and the tenderstem broccoli has a decent bite to it. A nest of spiralised pickled beetroot adds a burst of colour and sharpness. It looks pretty but it's like spaghetti so any refinery goes out the window at this point as it droops down my chin.
My photo, I admit, is poor and doesn't show the plate off to its full glory, but I'm not going to faff around getting the best shot when I'm eager to tuck in.
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Expect to pay anything from £14 upwards for an à la carte main. The lamb at £21 is one of the more expensive dishes but it's on a par with anything you'll find at fine dining restaurants across Nottinghamshire - if anything it's a little cheaper.
Top marks for presentation of all the dishes - they're certainly very eye-catching and make you want to dig in. And all three of us clear our plates with murmurs of satisfaction.
And what's a pub without booze? I've seen a review where someone hailed the Guinness as the best outside Dublin. There's only one of us on the table drinking (and it's not me) but the glass of red 'refined and distinguished' Rioja Crianza seems to go down well. I stick to tea and water - a travesty I know when visiting a pub - but I'm driving.
My dining companions, Joe Corr and John Gains, aka Guys Who Dine, know a thing about top-quality food, regularly eating at some of the best restaurants around. Joe said: "With its modern, clean decor and great food selection you can see why it's a worthy winner. We especially like the open kitchen that allows you to watch the chefs hard at work preparing the dishes. The staff are lovely, friendly and professional."
I agree 100 percent; the high expectations have been met. An afternoon of work beckons but I could have happily stayed all afternoon with a few bevs in the garden. During my visit, I've seen a mum with a young baby in the restaurant, a lone man in a beanie hat nursing his pint in the bar, and three women, each with a dog. As well as being a destination for foodies, it seems like Nottinghamshire's Pub of the Year has something for everyone.
