The creators of a surfing program credited with saving the lives of veterans are hoping to win support from the federal government to expand the program across Australia.
The Veteran Surf Project, based at Gerroa on New South Wales' south coast, has supported more than 200 people with post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD) and other mental health conditions.
Veteran Greg "Willo" Williams joined the program about two years ago and said he had found healing.
"There's the euphoria of riding the waves, and all these people are yahooing and clapping and carrying on. It just feels so good," he said.
Mr Williams served in the Australian Defence Force (ADF) for seven years, but it was his six-month tour of Iraq that exposed him to horrific events and left him scarred.
Veteran finds his 'medicine'
Mr Williams tried to find help through medical services and community groups for several years, but nothing worked and his mental health deteriorated.
"At one stage in 2013 I tried to commit suicide," Mr Williams said.
"I couldn't handle the noises, the smells, the things that were in my head, the visions that I could not get rid of."
About two years ago a tradie visiting his house to do some maintenance noticed Mr Williams's surfboard and army backpack and suggested he join a special veteran surfing program at Gerroa.
In July he reached his 110th surf with the group.
"It has given me purpose in life, it has given me a kick, it saved my life," Mr Williams said.
"I have to have my surf medicine every second day."
Launched by big wave surfer
The program is the brainchild of former professional and big wave surfer Rusty Moran, who battled his own generational trauma from his dad's PTSD after World War II.
"I was teaching a bunch of GPs [general practitioners] and they were referring navy veterans to my surf school, and one planted the idea that we should prescribe surfing as medicine rather than pharmaceuticals," Mr Moran said
"And I went, 'Right. That sounds awesome'."
Veterans are referred to the program through word of mouth, GPs, and hospitals.
It starts as a 10-week learn-to-surf program that includes cognitive behaviour therapy, with participants encouraged to continue surfing with the group.
The 'surf commands respect'
The program provides camaraderie, athleticism, risk and an adrenaline rush, which Mr Moran says matches aspects of serving in the ADF.
"The surf commands respect," he said.
"It will knock you over if you are not paying attention, so you have to give it your full focus.
"There is no other room for thinking about the past. You have to be in that present moment. It is meditative.
"Then there is this thrill of tackling one of the waves, of staying on the board and staying up all the way to shore. It is just 10 seconds of just pure bliss."
Mr Moran said the program had delivered some broad outcomes.
"We had a Vietnam veteran who had not had more than three hours sleep a night for the last 48 years," he said.
"Then when he started surfing, he almost doubled his sleep. It was unreal.
"We have had police detectives, some trying to get off drugs and alcohol.
"For some it is maintaining their temper and their aggressive outbursts.
"One lady had her suicide date pencilled into her diary and her friends let me know that this has absolutely not just saved her, but also saved her kids and husband as well because they got their mum and wife back."
It is now the subject of Mr Moran's master's degree at Western Sydney University.
He hopes to have scientific proof of success to share with the Department of Veterans Affairs in the next six months.
The project also recently received funding from the NSW government to include first responders.
To 'rebuild and re-identify'
Veteran Rach Ranton, who served in the Army for 11 years with tours of East Timor and Afghanistan, travelled from Queensland to take part in the program.
"It's a really positive program. It helps you rebuild and re-identify who you want to be in the future," she said.
"To me that is the ultimate mindfulness. You are in every moment of being there and focusing, so yeah, that is why I love surfing."
Mr Williams said the team hoped the project could be expanded across the nation.
"I truly believe that with programs like this, and this program in particular, we can get veteran suicide down to near nothing."
