It’s not every day you see lounge furniture nestled in pristine Alpine snow at 1,800 feet. So, given the chance for a little sit-down – and a quirky photo opportunity – we sank into the red leather, grateful to take the weight off and take in the breathtaking views across the mountains.
We were in the heart of the Ski Amade ski region, trying our hand at the new 12 Peaks Trophy challenge in the Salzburger Sportwelt area of Salzburgerland. As the name suggests, the tour takes in a dozen peaks across five valleys. Complete the challenge of riding all 30 lifts, and skiing 10,000 vertical metres, across one, two or three days, and a black, red, or blue trophy badge is yours for the taking.
Just snap a selfie at each peak’s lift station to register your progress, which you can check on the skiline.cc website. Being a leisurely group, still getting our ski legs in, and as interested in the sweeping, panoramic views as we were bagging the full complement of peaks, we were happy to tick off as many as we could while prioritising enjoyment ahead of over-exertion.
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We kept mainly to the three valleys of Snow Space Salzburg, being Alpendorf/St Johann – our base for the stay – Wagrain and Flachau, and across its 120 kilometres discovered ample lifts and runs to keep us entertained for a full day on the slopes.
Just 40 minutes from Salzburg, with perfectly maintained, sweeping blues and wide, easy reds, alongside more challenging options for the more adventurous skier, Snow Space Salzburg has something for everyone. Now connected to the Zauchenesee, Flachauwinkl and Kleinarl area via the Panorama Link gondola lift, there are 210km of pristine pistes to explore. Having experienced precipitous red runs presenting more like blacks in other European resorts, I was pleased to find the majority of reds well suited to my ability as an intermediate skier with four weeks of experience.
Our guides, Manfred and Elfi of Skischule Alpendorf, as well as offering tips on technique, ensured we made the most of the area, pointing out Grossglockner, the highest peak in Austria, the FIS Ski World Cup race track in Flachau, where the women’s night slalom is held each year, and the volleyball court (yes, really) being set up in Wagrain for the CEV Snow Volleyball European Tour.
For those up for flexing their skills, there are a number of slalom tracks and fun parks to be explored, with bumps, jumps, tunnels and hoops to contend with. Despite taking a tumble or two, we found these enormously fun and a great way to inject some extra adventure into the day.
As well as spectacular views and perfect ski conditions, Snow Space Salzburg has modern lifts, including the aforementioned Panorama Link, as well as the Flying Mozart cable car, which opened in the 2021/22 season and is named for Salzburg’s most famous son – soaring from Wagrain/Kirchboden to the Grießenkareck in a ride as elegant and exhilarating as one of Wolfgang Amadeus’ own symphonies.
We visited during Ladies Week – held next year from March 18 to 25 – which offers buy one get one free on ski passes, for all genders. Passes are a reasonable 34 euros per day (nine euros for children up to six years old, 14 euros for seven to 14-year-olds). Snow Space Salzburg is also home to a host of enticing slopeside restaurants, offering anything from coffee and snacks to schnitzel and schnapps. We popped into Auhofalm in Wagrain for a hearty mound of chicken Caesar salad – with huge, juicy wings and plenty of egg and potato to fully refuel for the afternoon.
Another lunch stop at SternAlm in St Johann, complete with al fresco DJ and spectacular views down the valley, was a prime spot for a punchy dish of garlic and olive oil pasta with enormous, juicy prawns – carb loading at its finest and just a short ski back to the village and our hotel.
Hotel Oberforsthof, in Alpendorf, Jo Salzburg (also known as St Johann im Pongau), is situated just a few steps from the slopes and a short walk to either the Gernkogelbahn lift or the Alpendorf cable car. It’s not just the ski-in, ski-out location that makes Hotel Oberforsthof an attractive choice for the ski fraternity – with elegantly decorated and luxurious rooms it offers the perfect space to unwind after a hard day on the slopes.
Linger on your room’s balcony taking in the mountain views or make your way down to the hotel spa to ease the day’s aches with a relaxing dip in one of the hotel’s two pools – one indoor and one outdoor. The outdoor pool is nestled in the attractive gardens – where you can meet a couple of the hotel’s more unusual residents, alpacas Apollo and Paulo.
Chill in the steam room or bask in the panoramic sauna, then enjoy a herbal tea on one of the comfy loungers as you watch the sun set over the mountains before you head to dinner. Half board at the Oberforsthof will keep you well fuelled for your stay, with a huge range of hot and cold breakfast items, including freshly cooked eggs, bacon and sausage, cold meats and cheese, fresh fruit and delicious crusty bread.
Tea, coffee and cakes are on offer for a teatime treat for those fresh off the slopes, and in the evening a set menu with salad bar, starter, a choice of soups and main courses, dessert and cheese buffet all expertly prepared and elegantly plated. One of the great things about a holiday on the slopes is guilt-free dining. Carbs and calories are essential to keep the energy levels up, so for a food tourist like me there is no better excuse to explore the local delicacies.
Jo Salzburg itself has plenty to offer within easy reach, including the Oberforsthof Alm, where you can settle in for an extensive lunch sampling the traditional regional fare, such as beef consomme with pancake strips, unctuous cheese and a tapioca dumpling, and melt-in-the-mouth pork belly with a light and fluffy bread dumpling and hearty roasted vegetables – all while taking in the views of the village from the restaurant’s panoramic windows and enjoying a glass or two of the restaurant’s own local Sauvignon Blanc. There certainly are worse ways to while away an afternoon.
And if you fancy something even more special, check out the Reinbachstube, a few kilometres down the road in St Johann and accredited by the Falstaff food and wine guide. We enjoyed a three-course menu of imaginative and beautifully presented dishes, including a velvety, punchy carrot and ginger soup, accompanied by a grilled styrian shrimp, smokey, tender and delicious.
The beef three ways was a revelation, with rump, fillet and 12-hour slow-roasted cheek – balanced perfectly with a deep and buttery red wine sauce. We just found room for a selection of desserts, including a sweet and tart plum dumpling, with coconut sorbet, and a moreish biscoff ice parfait.
The wider Salzburgerland region is renowned for its gastronomy and focus on organic ingredients. For those looking to explore further afield it’s worth checking out the Via Culinaria, which boasts ten culinary ‘pathways’ to explore, including fish, cheese and beer and schnapps, across 330 ski huts, coffee shops, restaurants and more. A foodies’ heaven!
Most ski holidays follow a standard pattern of ski, eat, sleep, repeat – but if you fancy a day away from the slopes, there’s plenty to explore in and around Alpendorf. It’s just a short hop to Salzburg, with its famous Hohensalzburg Fortress and a whole host of city sights to soak up.
But if you fancy staying closer to home, try an eye-opening visit to Wolfgang Gangl’s krampus and perchten workshop. Not for the faint-hearted, these traditional Austrian horned devil masks are fashioned out of local pine, with intricate, gruesome features, and worn by locals from villages around the country on the annual krampus parade – a pagan festival held on the evening of December 5, the night before the Feast of St Nicholas – to drive out winter spirits by hitting people with bundles of birch sticks. Yes, really.
It’s well worth lingering awhile to check out the scores of creepy creations adorning the walls, and to watch Wolfgang painstakingly carve one of these masks, each unique and a real work of art. After being surrounded by frightening folklore, it might be a relief to return to the real world, grab your skis and boots and head back up the mountain to let the calming vistas of snowy peaks lift the spirits and banish thoughts of dark-hearted demons.
It’s always a wrench to leave the snow behind for another year, but with all that St Johann has to offer (not to mention that very attractive 40-minute transfer) it’s the perfect excuse to plan another visit. I’ll be counting the weeks until next season and a return to my new favourite ski resort. And who knows, maybe next time that 12 Peaks Trophy will be mine…
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