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Where sun-soaked sands meet a kaleidoscope of global flavours, it’s no wonder Cape Town is the star of our social media feeds right now.
The South African city may be 12 hours away by plane but with the minimal two-hour time difference, it's easy for British jetsetters to hit the ground running.
But there is another reason why Brits lead the millions of tourists flocking to the southern city: the wine.
The blossoming scene has oenophiles reaching for the closest spittoon to sample the best that the region has to offer. And there are many ways to do this. You may already be familiar with the iconic Wine Tram that stops at the various historic vineyards of Franschhoek – just an hour from the buzz of Cape Town. But you need not leave the city to get a taste of the independent producers across the country.
The One&Only is one of, if not the top, hotel in South Africa. Positioned on the V&A Waterfront, you have a breathtaking view of Table Mountain from the second you step inside. The floor-to-ceiling windows showcase the iconic flat-topped landmark in all its glory with the hotel’s Vista cocktail bar in the foreground.
There are two restaurants here; South Africa’s only Nobu and the newer Rooi, a fire concept restaurant where everything is grilled in the traditional Braai style. In the latter, you will find the ever-changing wine menu curated by One&Only Cape Town’s Head Sommelier, Luvo Ntzeo.
Around the hotel, you’ll spot homages to the local culture, from delicate design details like the pottery and artwork by local artists - including ostrich feathers (once SA currency), to the carpet that bears the topography of Table Mountain. But it’s no more obvious than in the diverse wine list.
Upon chairs adorned to resemble the horns of Ankole-Watusi cattle, I sat down with Ntzeo in the resort's designated tasting area to sip my way through a sample of the around 5000 wines offered and decode the signatures of South African wine.
Ntzeo creates the wine programme at the One&Only to reflect the diverse nature of the country. There are designated under 25 initiatives and wine months to showcase women vintners and curations designed to bring people together through like-minded passions. As such, it has put the hotel at the forefront of South Africa’s wine story. The hotel hosts the annual celebration of the country’s wine birthday each February.
Before we begin, Ntzeo reassures me that one needs not be a wine expert to flex the lexicon. He decodes what the common descriptors really mean:
- Is it warm? Yes, if you can taste sun, ripe and yellow notes. Or is it fresh? Expect saltiness like the sea, crisp and green flavours
- Acidic? The more that it causes you to salivate, the more acidic the wine
- How long does it last in your mouth? This determines if it has a long or short finish
- Wooded or not? Look for toast, anything burnt or vanilla
- Legs aka the streaking liquid after swirling are an indication of alcohol content, sugar and body
The soul of the South African cellar
The beauty of South African wine is that there are no bad years. The climate provides consistent vintages, while the diverse range of soils – from the mountains to the Atlantic and Indian Oceans brings a vibrancy that means you can enjoy wines in their youth without needing to mature them for an extended period.
Ntzeo’s respect for the craft is contagious. He explains that the producers “make and serve wine with emotion” and describes the “soul” in every sip. The country’s passionate vintners see their produce as a gift to create joy and bring people together.
Chenin Blanc is most typically associated with South Africa as the French grape thrives in the contrasting cold coastal areas as well as the hot lowlands. It is best enjoyed with fish – but it can be crisp and fresh, meaning it also pairs well with oily, saltier dishes or complex, elegant and rich like seafood. The most profitable is the Sauvignon Blanc, best enjoyed in the year that it is bottled, unlike the Chenin which requires ageing for around six years.
What makes SA wines stand out is the welcome lack of snobbery typically associated with wine production and tasting. It is defined by its accessibility and connection.
Shop our tasting room heroes below
Groot Phesantekraal Sauvignon Blanc 2024
The cool, oceanic currents north of Cape Town shine through from the first sip of this Sauvignon Blanc. The climate - defined by its warm days and cold evenings - provides the optimal temperatures for the grapes to thrive - as is perfectly demonstrated by this wine. The young 2024 expression is vibrant and bright.
In the glass, it pours a pale yellow hue with notes of fresh green apple, green guava and English gooseberry that give it a fresh taste. There’s no sign of candied or overly ripe fruit here - it is instead sharp and clean on the palate with medium acidity and a short finish. The aroma has a subtle vegetal asparagus undertone.
This bottle is best enjoyed in a year, allowing just enough time for the youthful edges to mellow and makes for an accessible and affordable entry into the region’s cooler-climate Sauvignon Blancs.
Buy now £4.42, Groot Phesantekraal
Rijk's Chenin Blanc 2023
Chenin Blanc is often considered the face of South African wine as the country’s most widely planted variety. This particular expression comes from Rijk’s - a small, boutique, family-owned winery in Tulbagh that is relatively off the beaten path. It was created from vines that date back over 40 years, which offer a certain depth and complexity.
The region is hot and inland with no ocean influence leading to ripe flavours. It pours a pronounced yellow hue and has notes of pineapple, peach and apricot. There’s no overt toastiness, but a subtle touch of burnt sugar adds an immediate sweetness. You will also find a zesty acidity on the palate that lifts the experience. Best enjoyed over a long lunch with family.
Buy now £20.58, KWM Wine
Joostenberg Chenin Blanc Noble Late Harvest 2023
For those with a sweet tooth, the Joostenberg Chenin Blanc Noble Late Harvest 2023 is a vintage you’ll want in your collection. It’s almost grape juice-like in flavour where notes of honey, apricot jam and marmalade provide a depth that is suitably saccharine.
It uses the same grapes as the Rijk's variety above, the signature Chenin Blanc that is ubiquitous across South Africa but instead of the residual 2g of sugar that makes for a balance sweet but crisp flavour, the Joostenberg contains 200g.
Buy now £13.95, Vine Whisperer
Krone Night Nectar Rose 2022
When the occasion calls for bubbles, the Krone Night Nectar Rose 2022 can step up to the plate. Ideal for a wedding reception or anniversary, there is something endlessly romantic about this pink-hued rose sparkling wine beyond just the colourway to the sweet, balanced flavour. Hugely palatable - in fact, it goes down a little too easily - it has notes of strawberry, raspberry and cranberry intermingled with cream.
Buy now £20.00, Shekleton Wines
