This charming town on Lake Como is where Italians go to escape the summer crowds

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Lake Como has long been a popular getaway for holidaymakers seeking an elegant lakeside retreat, with the towns of Bellagio and Como attracting tens, if not hundreds, of thousands of visitors a year.

Its appeal is by no means new. Lake Como was one of the major luxury European hotspots of the 1960s, providing a haven for Hollywood stars and wealthy families keen to escape the city. Winston Churchill came here to paint after the war and Verdi was inspired to write La Traviata on these very banks.

Today, signs of luxury abound – private boats dot a lake surrounded by waterfront mansions, and there’s a Ferrari around every corner. The rich and famous flock to the lake every summer, with the likes of George and Amal Clooney, Tom Cruise, Madonna, and Sylvester Stallone all enjoying the shores of Como. Lake Como has a rich reputation, and the crowds and often exorbitant prices reflect that.

However, Lake Como isn’t just made up of high-end tourist-filled hotspots. Along the 30-mile-long lake, you can find culturally historic towns such as Lecco, Sorico, Menaggio, and Domaso that provide a respite from the oppressive crowds. After all, part of the magic of escaping to a lakeside town or mountainous refuge is to get in touch with nature, not be jostled by the hordes trying to get the perfect lakefront photo.

Como winds for 30 miles through Lecco, Sorico and Menaggio (Getty Images/iStockphoto)

Just south of Varenna lies the town of Lecco, beloved by Italians looking for a Lake Como getaway. The town itself feels small and the centre is walkable – you can get from the train station to the ferry terminal in just 10 minutes on foot.

That’s not to say that there isn’t a wealth of shops, bakeries, and restaurants that you can dive into. You’ll find big name European stores like H&M, Calzedonia, and Carrefour supermarkets mixed in with local independent clothing and bookshops. The lack of touristy stands is apparent. Unlike Bellagio, you won’t find stalls selling fridge magnets and trinkets on every corner.

There are also the typical Italian piazzas, such as Piazza Garibaldi, where you can enjoy an espresso with a pastry while hearing a busker play. Afterwards, wander along the lakefront promenade with its well-maintained cycle lanes and rows of flowers with a generous scoop of gelato from Capo Horn Gelateria Artigianale. For the main restaurants and bars like Bottega del Maiale, L’EK Bistrot, and Cardamomo Persian Palace Lecco, head to Piazza Septembre where you’ll find alfresco dining areas and regular live music just a couple of streets back from the lakefront.

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A short wander to the lakefront is rewarded with awe-inspiring views of the surrounding mountains, such as Monte Rosa, Monviso, and Adamello, and you can often find families and couples sitting on the shoreline enjoying a picnic as the sun goes down.

Everything here moves a little slower. You can easily while away hours with a generous glass of Sforzato di Valtellina or Franciacorta and people-watch in the main square of Palazzo delle Paure. For panoramas of the lake and mountains, take a passeggiata to the Lungolago di Lecco viewpoint with its medieval ruins.

While there is much more choice in terms of accommodation in Bellagio and Como, including more chain hotels and big brands, if you’re looking for affordable luxury, there are plenty of good options in Lecco such as the Hotel Griso and Hotel Villa Cipresi.

The area surrounding Lecco is full of hiking trails, cycling routes and other opportunities for outdoor activities (Rebecca Crowe)

The lake and the surrounding mountains are excellent for hiking and climbing, with the Nibbio crag that’s popular with climbers within a half hour’s drive. Nearby trails include the intimidating Magnodeno Mountain, Monte Barro and the tranquil Sentiero delle Pozze (or Path of the Pools) where you can take a dip in natural pools all along the route.

A  hike to Piani d’Erna or Monte Resegone is a great way to build up an appetite for delicious, and affordable, local fare such as pizzoccheri alla Valtellinese, creamy polenta dishes, and unctuous risotto.

Where to stay

Lecco Hostel & Rooms

For an affordable Lake Como experience, Lecco Hostel and Rooms offers bright, modern common areas and a mix of comfy private rooms and dorm beds, just a kilometre from the main train station. The hostel also benefits from a beautiful garden, a spacious shared lounge, co-working spaces, and an onsite restaurant.

Casa al Lago

Many of the top places to stay in Lecco are holiday homes and apartment rentals. Casa al Lago has one of the best locations in town, right on the lakefront. This small but beautiful one-bedroom apartment has a balcony that looks straight out across Lake Como, directly opposite the ferry terminal in the middle of town.

HLL Hotel Lungolago Lecco

If you want to stay right by the beautiful Lungolago di Lecco viewpoint, consider booking a stay at HLL Hotel Lungolago Lecco. With the popular Tabula Rosa restaurant being attached to the hotel, a location just steps from the lakefront promenade, and gorgeous balcony views, it’s undoubtedly one of the best places to stay in Lecco.

How to get there

The most convenient route involves flying into Milan Malpensa Airport (MXP) or Milan Bergamo Airport (BGY). British Airways, ITA, easyJet, and Ryanair fly from across the UK with a flight time of just under two hours.

After a 45-minute train from Malpensa to Milan, or a 17-minute bus from Bergamo airport to Bergamo, you can take a direct train to Lecco. From either Bergamo or Milan, this takes 40 minutes, with 58 trains a day from Milan and around 29 from Bergamo.

Getting around

For trips around the lake, there are 29 trains a day between Varenna and Lecco as well as 4-6 ferries per day between Lecco and Bellagio (depending on the day).

The town’s train station has direct and frequent lines into Varenna just north of the town, and into Bergamo and Milan, which are ideal for day trips or for heading out to the airport. Train tickets to Milan cost just five euros each way and you can be in the centre of the city within an hour.

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