There’s a new cookbook in town, and it comes from Palestinian-Syrian chef and activist Reem Assil. In Arabiyya: Recipes from the Life of an Arab in Diaspora, Reem dives into her favorite traditions that come from her Palestinian-Syrian heritage, which includes everything from recipes to a list of pantry essentials to cook Arab dishes. There’s recipes for mezzes, mains, special occasion sweets and everything in between.
To give a taste of what you can expect to find in Arabiyya, Assil has graciously shared her recipe for Shish Barak, Lamb Dumplings in Yogurt Sauce with Mint Oil. It’s a recipe that requires a lot of time and love; a relaxing activity for a day off. “While my mother favored expedience in the kitchen, there was one notable exception: when she was in an especially good mood or just wanted to spoil us, she’d set aside the demands of her job and spend an afternoon contentedly rolling out pasta for shish barak, tortellini-shaped meat-filled dumplings,” Assil wrote. “Bathed in a garlic-yogurt sauce, these dumplings deliver a burst of juicy spiced lamb, enrobed in fresh pasta, and brightened with a drizzle of minty oil.” If you’re going to take the time to make dough and shape dumplings, I’d definitely make enough to freeze so that you can enjoy the fruits of your labor for even more meals. Assil added that any or even all of the elements of this dish can be made up to several days ahead, then cooked and assembled just before serving.
Reprinted with permission from Arabiyya: Recipes from the Life of an Arab in Diaspora by Reem Assil, copyright © 2022. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House.
SHISH BARAK ∙ شيشبرك
Lamb Dumplings in Yogurt Sauce with Mint Oil
Makes 4 to 6 servings
For the Dough:
3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/4 cup neutral oil, such as sunflower or canola
3/4 cup warm water (about 100°F), plus more as needed
In the bowl of a stand mixer or in a large bowl, combine the flour and salt.
To mix by hand: Using your hands, drizzle in the oil and incorporate, until the flour forms a fine crumble. Form a well inside the center, pour in the warm water, and slowly incorporate the flour from the inside of the well to bring the dough together. Turn out the dough on a flat work surface, dust with flour as needed, and knead until the dough forms a smooth, elastic ball, about 5 minutes.
To mix in a stand mixer: Using the paddle attachment on slow speed, drizzle in the oil until the flour forms a fine crumble. Switch to the dough hook and slowly add the warm water. Drizzle in 1 more teaspoon of water at a time if needed to make the dough come together. Once the dough forms, remove the dough from the bowl and place on a flat work surface, dust with flour as needed, and knead by hand until the dough forms a smooth, elastic ball, about 3 minutes.
Seal the ball in plastic wrap and let it rest in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.
For the Filling:
12 ounces ground beef or lamb (or mixture of both)
1 cup finely diced red onions (about 1 small onion)
1 teaspoon Seven-Spice Mix or ground allspice
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 teaspoons pomegranate molasses
2 tablespoons whole milk yogurt
While the dough is resting, in a large bowl combine the meat, onions, spice mix, salt, pepper, molasses and yogurt and knead the mixture like a dough, until it is thoroughly mixed. Alternatively, you can use a food processor. Set aside.
For the Mint Oil:
1 1/2 cups mint leaves (about 1 bunch)
2/3 cup neutral oil, such as sunflower or canola
Prepare a small bowl of ice water and set aside. Submerge the mint in boiling water for 30 seconds, remove from the heat, and plunge it into the ice water to stop the cooking. Remove the mint from the water and pat dry with paper towels.
In a small food processor or blender at medium speed, blend the mint with the oil until as smooth as possible, about 30 seconds. Set aside.
For the Yogurt Sauce:
2 cups full-fat Greek yogurt or labneh
1 tablespoon finely minced or grated garlic (about 4 cloves)
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed
2 cups cold water
In a small saucepan, combine the yogurt, garlic, cornstarch, salt and cold water and whisk to incorporate. Bring the sauce to a gentle simmer over low heat. Use a spatula or wooden spoon and scrape the bottom of the pan to make sure the sauce doesn’t burn. Adjust the salt to taste. Remove the saucepan from the heat and set aside until the dumplings are cooked.
To assemble:
1/4 cup toasted pine nuts, for garnish
2 tablespoons mint chiffonade (sliced thin, crosswise), for garnish
½ teaspoon Aleppo pepper or Chile-Spice Mix, for garnish
½ teaspoon sumac, for garnish
On a floured work surface, roll out the dough to 1/16-inch thickness, flouring the rolling pin and dough liberally, if needed, to prevent sticking. Let the dough relax for 5 minutes or so after rolling. With a dough cutter or the rim of a cup, cut out 3-inch circles. Cover the circles with a dish towel while you roll and cut out the rest of the dough. Set the scraps aside to rest, then knead them into a ball, roll into a sheet, and repeat the cutting process.
To make the dumplings, put a tablespoon of the filling in the center of each dough round. Using your finger or a pastry brush, moisten the edges with water. Gently fold the dough in half and press the edges with your fingers to seal, expelling any air bubbles before closing the last portion. Pull the corners of each half-moon around the index finger of one hand and pinch together with your other hand to bind, forming a cupped outer edge and dimpled belly center. Place the dumplings on a lightly floured sheet tray. Repeat the process, shaping all of the dumplings. Refrigerate, uncovered, if not cooking right away.
When you are ready to cook the dumplings, bring the 12 cups of water to a boil in a large pot. Add the dumplings to form a single layer (about twelve at a time). The dumplings should float and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer them into the yogurt sauce, gently tilting the pan from side to side to coat the dumplings evenly. Return the pan to low heat to make sure the dumplings are warmed through. If your sauce has gotten too thick, you can drizzle in some of your dumpling water to thin it. Repeat the process until all of the dumplings are cooked and coated in sauce.
Spoon into shallow bowls to serve and drizzle with the mint oil. Top with the pine nuts, mint, Aleppo pepper and sumac.
The dumplings can be stored frozen for up to 6 months. To keep their shape, freeze them first on a parchment-lined tray, then transfer to an airtight container or resealable bag for easy storage.
