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Nottingham Post
Nottingham Post
Entertainment
Lynette Pinchess

The Nottinghamshire village pub now a 'destination' for food lovers following takeover

A village pub has been transformed into a 'destination' after changing hands and introducing a menu described as exceptional.

The Old Volunteer in Caythorpe is a world away from typical pub grub of lasagne and pie and chips.

A half-hour drive from Nottingham takes visitors to the rural setting where chefs who previously worked at some of Nottingham's top restaurants - World Service, Bar Iberico, Chino Latino and Restaurant Six - have merged their talents to create a high-end gastro fusion menu.

Classics such as bolognaise have been elevated by using venison, sea bass is served with caviar and rice pudding has an Asian twist with miso caramel.

Like any self-respecting pub Sunday lunch is served - but even that is a different level. If you're thinking of going for a roast be prepared to book at least to two weeks in advance.

So what's tickling the taste buds currently?

Starters of miso onion soup, lobster tortellini and inside out chicken wings feature on the à la carte menu, served at lunchtimes and evenings in the 44-seater restaurant area.

Food lovers can look forward to mains of monkfish tikka masala, spiced duck breast and the ever-popular dry-aged fillet steak.

Desserts include chocolate and miso anglaise, sticky toffee pudding and black treacle ice cream, and yuzu and lemon posset - inspired by the dessert Hira Thakur created when he appeared on MasterChef: The Professionals in 2020.

To pick the most expensive options would set you back nearly £70-a-head but there is a less pricey alternative.

A set lunchtime menu offers a choice of three starters, mains of roast chicken, fish and chips and mushroom risotto, and desserts costing £21 for two courses and £27 for three.

The back end of last year saw a brand new chapter start at the Old Volunteer, or the Old Vol as it's known (not to be confused with a pub of the same name in Gedling).

A takeover by locals Sean and Nicola Reddington led to a clean sweep, with a new look for the pub, as well as new staff.

General manager Matt Coates, who left his role managing a pub in the Peak District to move to the Old Vol, said: "It's high end food and fine service without the pretentiousness. We've got huge aspirations to be right up there.

"It's been busy. We had a much busier January than anticipated. The reviews are good so all in all I'd say it's been a good start.

"We've had positive feedback from the locals. We've definitely found the right balance between the restaurant and the pub side."

The compliments have flooded in since the takeover, describing the food as "gorgeous" and worthy of a Michelin star.

Top Nottingham chef Sat Bains has dined there, sharing a photo of himself with the chefs and the caption: "So good to see a young and enthusiastic team" on Instagram.

Other diners include MasterChef: The Professionals champion Laurence Henry and names from the world of sport, footballer Tom Huddlestone, rugby's Matt Dawson and ex-cricketer Chris Broad.

Take a look at the makeover:

The whole building has been overhauled. The interior has been modernised to create a stylish contemporary setting, light and airy with a living wall of plants, a self-playing piano, log burner, and a new snug with sofas and cosy chairs and a real log fire.

The dog-friendly bar serves local beers including Castle Rock's Elsie Mo and Harvest Pale, and Jaipur from Derbyshire brewery Thornbridge as well as crowd-pleasing Timothy Taylor bitter.

There's no longer a TV downstairs - instead upstairs has been converted into a sports bar with buzzers for ordering drinks.

Matt added: "We have some fairly big plans for the garden. The back of the garden will be a children's playground, a bridge will be built over the stream, and the garden has a big barbecue area. A bar will be built out there and toilets so it will be self-contained.

(L- R) Chef de partie George Castles and sous chef Billy Mantle pictured alongside head chefs Andy Goodbourn and Hira Thakur in the kitchen at The Old Vol in Caythorpe (Joseph Raynor/ Nottingham Post)

"There's a terrace off the sports bar and we're planning on live music and bands up there playing to the garden. It should be amazing."

Hira, who until recently worked at Trent Bridge's fine dining Restaurant Six, heads up the kitchen team together with Andy Goodbourn, whose classic Sunday roast was a runner-up nationally in the Observer Food Monthly awards in 2019 when he worked at the Lord Nelson in Burton Joyce.

More recently he ran the kitchen at the Tap & Run, the gastro pub belonging to cricketers Stuart Broad and Harry Gurney.

Hira, who grew up in the Himalayas, said: "It's a seasonal menu that will change every three months. It's 60 percent fusion - it's a lot more flavoursome, a bit of Japanese and Indian."

Also bringing his talents to the kitchen is 'head chef in training' Jack Pearce, who was named Best Young Chef in Nottingham in 2019, and previously worked at the Red Lion in Thurgarton and World Service.

The Old Vol's proud to shout about all its chefs - their credits showcased in a card on each table in the restaurant.

Sous chef Billy Mantle has joined from pop-up nights at Albie's in Carlton and his skills in Asian and Japanese cuisine are a perfect fit for the fusion menu.

Chef de partie Dylan Dawling is a whizz at tapas having gained experience at Bar Iberico, Escabeche and Baresca.

They join George Castles who has worked at the Old Vol for four years.

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