Scudding over deserts, fording rivers, conquering mountains - never has the call of the wild been so heavily evoked by the motorcycle industry as in 2024.
Reflecting the booming UK adventure bike market - and helping drive it - the industry has become wilderness-obsessed. No wonder, with adventure bike sales accounting for 20 per cent of sales this year, up from 18.6 per cent in ’23 when 21,272 were bought, according to the Motor Cycle Industry Association, as riders dream of breaking out of the rut and exploring pastures new.
It might seem a far cry from London but the machines are proving popular with city riders too, even if - with their knobbly tyres, tall suspension and battered panniers – the machines resemble caged beasts hemmed in by traffic.
What surprises many city-dwellers is that they needn’t journey to Africa and beyond in search of rugged adventure, or even the Continent. There are miles of ‘hidden’ roads answering the call of the wild in Britain, many within easy riding distance of the capital, all of which can be ridden perfectly within the law. But only if you know where - and how - to look.
The leading organisation offering to help adventurists find these elusive green roads is the Trail Riders Fellowship, which has seen its membership nearly double in the past five years, with many new members living in London.
Founded in 1970 when legislation sought to reduce public access to green roads, the TRF set out to defend vehicular access rights on ‘unsealed’ roads. In addition, today, it offers riding advice, works hard to maintain and conserve access to existing public roads and has developed a painstakingly-researched online map detailing thousands of miles of green roads available for the public to enjoy by responsible and reasonable means of travel - including motorcycling.
Crucially, the Fellowship also puts novices in touch with more experienced riders and local, organised groups who can show them the ropes, leading them to the best local routes.
Canterbury trails
To discover more - and find whether trail riding is even possible if you live in London - I joined the TRF and spent days in the saddle with one of their experts. I was astonished to learn that there’s a labyrinth of ‘hidden’ byways within easy reach of the capital.
Enough, in fact, when combined with paved but lesser-known roads carrying us through a network enchanting, remote towns and villages, to form an eye-opening and at times challenging ride from where London embraces Kent, right down to the coast near Canterbury.
My vehicle of choice? A second-hand Honda CRF 300L, a lightweight, low-power bike ideal for beginners and aficionados alike. Importantly it’s completely road-legal: not to be confused with motocross or enduro events, trail-riding can be tackled only on bikes that comply with the usual highway rules and regulations. Naturally, I also wanted a bike capable and comfortable for heading out of the capital first, before hitting the trails.
Pilgrim’s progress
I joined TRF head of communications Jonathan Bentman for two key ‘legs’ as I launched my adventure to the coast, meeting firstly near Maidstone for beautifully hilly, wooded sections of the Pilgrim’s Way, then near Canterbury where we progressed along a series of ridge lines, often hidden in remote woodland.
As I don protective gear in case of a spill - not unusual on muddy byways - and strap on my crash helmet for a promised 50-mile ride, Jonathan, a former surveyor, outlines the ethos of the TRF, which has around 10,000 members.
“Trail riding’s rather like a relaxed walk in the country; it’s almost as slow but you engage with every lump and bump and rut in the scenery. You’re at one with nature, immersed in the sounds, smells and sights,” he tells me. “What we do is completely legal at all times,” emphasises the road-racing and trials veteran. “Our bikes are taxed and insured, as what we are riding are roads – in truth, we don’t ride actually ride “off-road” at all.
“You’ll reach parts of Britain you never even knew existed,” he adds as we head off for the day, cramming in more sights than I’d usually see on any day-long hike, my usual means of traversing the countryside.
Jonathan said that between the ‘black’ roads and other paths are around 6,000 miles of Green Roads, in the UK. But what strikes me as we head off the tarmac near Eyhorne, is how hard the ‘trails’ are to find. Often un-signed, resembling little more than rough tracks to the untrained eye, they hide in plain sight behind overgrown hedgerows or woodland, awaiting discovery. Few are well signed.
As we stop for our first breather and to gulp water after negotiating a series of interlinking trails through woodland and past fields (riding like this is hot, thirsty work) Jonathan explains that this is where the TRF’s online Green Road Map comes in handy; no one wants to find themselves trespassing in error. Cross-referenced with OS maps, it is an essential tool for finding the best, legal routes.
Slide rule
Acclimatising to the slip and slide of the tyres on mud is unnerving at first - my Honda is shod in the original factory tyres designed as a compromise for road and off-road use - but it soon becomes second nature. Trundling between 10-15 mph we stand on the footpegs for extra balance as a general rule, achieving fantastic views over hedges, green countryside beckoning for miles around, not a building in sight. It is exhilarating and energetic, even though the pace is slow.
Rarely going higher than third gear - trickier sections with ruts, fallen branches and deep puddles demand plodding along in first - the day develops its own, satisfying rhythm. One minute we’re sliding over clay and chalk, the next the rear wheel is seeking out grip in loose gravel or wet leaves as we ascend steep, winding hills, or descend gingerly the other side.
The mods I made to my bike work well, the uprated suspension soaking up the bumps. We stop frequently, killing the engines to take in the views, capture them with snapshots or chat with the occasional walker, cyclist or horse rider. If I feared hostility from others I was mistaken. Routinely, we exchange friendly words with hikers, make a fuss of their dogs and ride on, often at a jogging pace, then at a trot, making up time on tarmacked sections. We navigate short - and long - sections of tracks some of which, heavily overgrown and narrow, had seen little use.
I fall off only once, landing on soft earth – no harm to rider or bike.
Some tracks cross open fields, others snake through woodland or follow ancient drovers’ routes in the hollows, even old Roman roads. It was hard to believe I was only an hour or so from The Smoke. Frequently, we use minor ‘ordinary’ roads to reach the next trail, taking in views of Kent’s ancient villages with churches, cottages and pubs usually missed by travellers criss-crossing the country on bigger A-roads or motorways, which sometimes loom into sight in the distance.
The Green Road Map shows that, time permitting, I could have left the tarmac for numerous green stretches in north Kent and zig-zagged my way to the outskirts of Maidstone and then the coast. Kent alone has around 200 miles of green lane.
Trail mix
On our second foray into the wild - Jonathan again on his 1990 Honda Dominator - we brave a mix of rain and sun, pausing to don or remove waterproofs. The most exhilarating moment comes as we emerge from farmland to roll down a steep, winding road to St Margaret’s Bay for hot dogs and tea on the beach. Second best? A stunning, unexpected lofty vantage point of Folkestone and the coastline sprawling away beyond, right at the end of a gravelly trail.
Villages I’d never before heard of - Frogham, Napchester, Ewell Minnnis, Womenswold - come and go. So do a few friendly tea rooms. We venture deep into the countryside on the eastern end of the Kent Downs, far away from ‘normal’ roads and over two days encounter only a handful of cyclists and walkers. It’s like riding into the pages of The Darling Buds of May.
Without the assistance of the TRF this expedition would have been daunting. Tracing the routes would have been challenging and it was reassuring to know that if my bike did become wedged in a rut, help was at hand, as was highly expert riding advice.
My adventure didn’t tackle the deserts, mountains and rivers presented by the glossy bike ads. The truth is, we didn’t need them. Within easy reach of London I discovered rewarding, deeply rural parts of Kent that I would never otherwise have seen. Learning new off-road techniques dramatically improved my on-road riding and confidence too. And now my Honda has a respectable sheen of Kentish mud, wearing its ‘adventure’ crown more proudly than before.
Trail Riders Fellowship – championing responsible, sustainable trail riding
Any rider wanting to put their adventure bike to the use for which it was intended, can join the TRF, comprising over 40 local groups all over the UK, including several in counties encircling London. Membership is £58 per year, giving members a highly professional, engaging and informative magazine - ‘Trail’ - as well as club nights, guided rides and other activities.
The TRF is keen on its rules, as well as campaigning to keep trails open. Members must use only roads they are entitled to ride on and not stray from the ‘correct’ route. Plenty of space must be given to walkers, horses and cyclists and riding speeds should be ‘unobtrusive’ (never above 25mph). Machines must be effectively silenced, which means no illegal exhaust pipes. My Honda, for example, meets the EU regulation of 77dB - much quieter than a lawnmower, which is permitted to make 96dB, and even quieter than an electric car, which is permitted to make 90dB at speed.
“Maintain the standard of a responsible trail rider, so as not to disturb the tranquillity of National Parks and peaceful areas of the countryside”, members are told. Riders must honour the Countryside Code, and groups should comprise no more than six riders. More at https://www.trf.org.uk/, where you can join Facebook groups and ask for riding partners.
ROAD TYPES
A bewildering range of acronyms describe roads, ranging from Byway Open To All Traffic (BOATS), to Other Route With Public Access (ORPA, some of which can be legally used) and Restricted Byways, which can definitely not be used by motor traffic. The TRF uses the generic term ‘Green Road’ for roads that can be ridden. If in doubt, always check first to avoid committing an offence.
GETTING THE ‘RIGHT’ BIKE
Trail riders use a wide range of bikes but the Honda CRF 250 and 300 are one of the most popular. Used models cost from around £2,000 and ridden in factory trim. I bought a low-mileage 300L for £3,500 and – like many owners - fitted uprated suspension, tougher/higher handlebars, sump and hand guards and other minor mods, making it even better adapted for green lanes.
To avoid the number plate holder and lights catching on obstacles I fitted a compact ‘tail tidy’ from specialists R&G. It took about an hour to fit the lightweight unit costing £82 and it looks the part. I fitted £32 R&G stick-on frame guards to give my boots more grip and protect the paintwork. The firm supplies myriad useful products for cleaning, oiling and protecting trail bikes, helping them withstand days in the rough. More information at www.rg-racing.com.
I bought and fitted tougher, higher Renthal handlebars and hand guards, a rack, a sump guard and a wider ‘foot’ for the side stand, for a few hundred pounds. It feels like money well spent.
Getting to the trails can mean a long ride out of London in all weathers, so I fitted high quality Oxford ‘Hot Grips Pro Adventure’, which look great, are slightly fatter than the original grips for extra comfort, and are highly effective at keeping my hands warm. Made from silicone, they incorporate an unobtrusive press button in the left-hand grip, doing away with a separate, clunky, bolt-on control panel.
The Hot Grips – which can be DIY-fitted and which also come in Sport or Touring styles – independently measure and control the temperature of each grip with in-built thermistors, to maintain the right level of heat, essential, for me at least, with post-chemo peripheral neuropathy, on colder days. Multi-coloured LED lights indicate the chosen temperature settings (45°C; 40°C or 35°C) and the lights dim at night. Wired to the battery with the supplied waterproof connectors, the Hot Grips might be the best year-round mod I made, enabling me to extend the trail riding ‘season’. Open ends allow bar-ends if needed, although these weren’t required on the Honda. They cost £199.99; more at www.oxfordproducts.com.
KITTING UP
It’s important to get the ‘right’ kit for comfort and protection; I started in old road-riding gear but switched to Klim’s £640 Baja S4 AA-rated jacket, from specialists Motolegends in Guildford. It’s a ‘proper’, specially-designed off-roading jacket so excels at comfort, venting and practicality. Newcomers are surprised at the copious heat generated during trail-riding, and the Baja is a highly effective, cool solution.
Its ‘secret’ is lots of Schoeller Dynatec mesh, giving huge, even air flow. Combined with stretchy micromesh Cordura panels it makes crucial contortions on a trail bike - such leaning off the bike in a tight spot, ducking under foliage, picking your bike off the ground - easier, keeping you fresh.
Klim’s attention to detail is immense; construction quality extremely high, design thoroughly thought-out. There are (poppered) hand-warming pockets as well as two velcro’d and zippered outer pockets, plus a small credit card sleeve pocket, and three generous internal pockets (plus a secret internal pocket for travel documents). There are arm adjustment straps and a drawstring waist cinch; even two elasticated loops which can easily be attached to ties near the collarbone, so the zip ‘flaps’ stay wide open for even more air. There’s vented D30 Level armour at the back, elbows and shoulders, plus ‘Superfabric’ panels in strategic positions, using mini ceramic ‘balls’ for protection on the road.
Strategically placed Scotchlite strips make the jacket visible in the gloom and a moisture-wicking liner (which I put thoroughly to the test). There’s even a rear pouch for a water bladder (sold separately). Trail-riding is thirsty work.
What you don’t get is waterproofing, explaining the generous rear cargo pocket for stashing a waterproof to go over the top. I used an old one which I didn’t have to worry about when riding through brambles. I paired the jacket with waterproof, well-vented Klim Latitude pants, which worked very well indeed, and which are reviewed here.
Road chill
Why ‘S4’? It stands for 4-way stretch, amply highlighting the comfort factor that Klim prioritised, and that shone through even after eight hours in the saddle, on and off tarmac. It proved a great solution for both green-laning and could tackle adventure touring, although in typical UK weather, you would quickly chill down on the road, and would definitely need extra layers. More at Motolegends.
Tough boots are essential, to avoid injury. I played safe and wore protective motocross boots and - with one or two slippery moments - was glad I had. My old TCX X-Helium Michelin boots worked well. They’re not watertight so, for comfort, I bought waterproof bike socks from EDZ.
Hand protection too is key but as you tend to overheat and need fine clutch and throttle control, the right choice is important. I rode to Kent in touring gloves then switched to Klim’s lightweight, £90 Baja S4s, again recommended by Motolegends, on the trails. Made from a lightweight stretch micromesh, they combine perforated leather for strength, while your knuckles are shielded by a TPU protector vented for more airflow.
A palm foam pad helps absorb knocks and there’s extra leather on the palm for abrasion resistance. The forefingers are touchscreen sensitive, great for sat-navs on the trail. They worked well on the Honda, allowing fine manipulation of the controls, while keeping me cool. There are useful pull-on loops, good, grippy Velcro adjustors and they were very comfy from the word ‘go’, with loads of articulation. There’s even a visor wipe on the left hand. They are not inexpensive, but they are supremely comfortable and look built to last.
Finally, you need a rugged – waterproof – bag to carry dry socks, water, and maybe an overnight change; I chose Mototech’s value-for-money £58.99 Drybag 180 tailbag. Capacious, with a velcro’d rollover ‘neck’, it is squashy, can be folded small, and attached to your bike by straps, even without a rack. In elastic PVC material, the universal-fit bag is available in different sizes and is designed to take a muddy bashing. With taped seams, reflective patches, a waterproof outside pocket, and supplied with tough loop straps a swell as clear paint protection film, it’s built for the trials of the trail. More at sw-motech.co.uk
KICKSTARTING YOUR TRAIL RIDING
Riders nervous about heading directly onto the trails can tackle training courses first. Motorcycle manufacturers including Honda, Harley-Davidson, BMW, Triumph, Ducati, Yamaha and KTM offer courses, providing expert tuition. For Londoners, a great starting point is Phoenix Motorcycle Training, which has its own ‘try out’ course at Sidcup, and which provides expert, guided, trail rides. More at phoenixmotorcycletraining.co.uk.
Once you’ve got the bug for trail riding, take a look at the TET (Transeurotrail.org), a full legal route that covers 100,000km across 37 countries in Europe. You’ll find deserts, rivers and mountains galore.
