Today’s very simple and speedy Italian classic uses the whole broccoli – even the woody stalk. Inspired by Italian chef Gennaro Contaldo, the approach creates a delicious sauce that coats the pasta beautifully. Trim just a few millimetres off the discoloured end of the broccoli stalk, then, to ensure it cooks down and becomes tender, slice the rest of the stalk into 1cm-long pieces.
Italian-style whole broccoli pasta
This is Italian simplicity at its best. The whole broccoli is cooked until it’s soft, so it breaks down into a delicious sauce that coats the pasta. In its simplest form, with just olive oil, broccoli and pasta, when seasoned generously, it makes a three-ingredient dish that’s delicious just as it is, but to take it up a notch add a few capers (the ones packed in sea salt rather than brine have an even more exceptional flavour), garlic, lemon, chilli flakes and pangrattato (toasted breadcrumbs) or parmesan. It also costs about £1 a portion even when made using organic ingredients, so it’s a firm family favourite in our house.
Salt and black pepper
1 whole broccoli (350g), or turnip tops or other greens
30ml extra-virgin olive oil
375g pasta (I used wholewheat)
25g capers, drained or rinsed, and dried (optional)
2 small garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
Grated zest and juice of ½ lemon
Grated parmesan or pecorino, to serve, or pangrattato (toasted breadcrumbs), to taste
Chilli flakes, to taste
Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, cut the florets off the broccoli, slice the tough end of the stalk into thin rounds, then cut the more tender parts into quarters lengthways. Drop the lot into the boiling water, return to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, warm the oil in a large frying pan over a medium-low heat. Add the capers, if using, fry until crisp, then add the garlic and fry-cook for just a minute more. Take off the heat.
Once the broccoli is cooked, use a slotted spoon to lift it out of the water and into the frying pan (keep the pot of hot water). Return the frying pan to the heat, and saute the broccoli for a couple of minutes, breaking it down slightly with a potato masher.
Meanwhile, bring the pan of broccoli water back to a boil, add the pasta and cook according to the packet instructions. Transfer the pasta directly into the broccoli pan, adding a splash of pasta cooking water to loosen the sauce, if needed. Stir and toss over a medium heat until well combined, then add the lemon juice (and grated zest, too, if your lemon is unwaxed and organic). Season to taste and serve with optional parmesan or toasted breadcrumbs or grated cured egg yolks and chilli flakes sprinkled over the top.
