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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Josh Barrie

St John to return to 1994 menu (and prices) to celebrate 30th birthday

One of London’s most recognisable restaurants, St John, will mark its 30th anniversary next month by returning to its 1994 menu — including the original prices. 

The famous roast bone marrow and parsley salad will be offered for £4.20 (£16 today), with a plate of apricots on toast at £3.70 (at present, peaches on toast are £10.20).

The Smithfield restaurant was opened by chef Fergus Henderson and wine man Trevor Gulliver three decades ago, alongside maître d' Jon Spiteri. Then, customers were served tripe and onions, duck gizzards and pea leaves, and cheese with piccalilli. Each proved to be a hit.

Three decades on and St John is an institution, and on the way are a roster of celebrations, starting with the recreation of Henderson’s earliest menu, which will run during the week between September 9-27.

(Sam A Harris)

As well as archival favourites, guests will be able to enjoy dishes deemed classics in London eating. Drawing on an old quote from Henderson — “a good age deserves a good lunch and a good party” — the likes of crispy fried pig tails, eel with bacon and mash, and Welsh rarebit are also to feature.

As always, menus will change twice daily, with Smithfield head chef Jonathan Whittle and the team working to their same routine. 

Gulliver said: “We are going to enjoy this little moment with those close by that really matter and those that we need to say a big thank you to. They are the same, our St John folk and our customers across the years. 

“I hope that we’ve found a good solution — both are our future and may the good ship St John sail on, always the same but never the same.

“Fergus and I are the lucky ones, and we might just have a little lunch somewhere along with a glass of a very good Burgundy, raising that toast to our many friends across the years.”

Example dishes at 1994 prices:

  • Roast bone marrow and parsley salad £4.20
  • Pheasant and trotter pie £18.00
  • Tripe and onions £7.80
  • Devilled kidneys on toast £8.80
  • Welsh rarebit £3.50
  • Eccles and Lancashire £4.00
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