I have a savings account, invest in the stock market, put a portion of my paycheck in a 401K, and occasionally stuff a loose $20 into a coat pocket (we’re not here to judge). The point of all: put some money away now and have a little padding later. According to dermatologists (and 400 viral TikTok posts), I should apply the same logic to my face. I need to start collagen banking.
It makes sense: if I raise collagen capital while I’m young, I'll have an excess supply to pull from when I age and my skin starts to retire. “Collagen is the foundation of firm, youthful skin—literally. It’s like your skin’s scaffolding, working behind the scenes to keep everything lifted and smooth,” explains celebrity aesthetician and co-host of BeautyCurious Podcast Ian Michael Crumm.
“Unfortunately, collagen production begins to decline in your mid-20s,” he adds. It slows by one percent yearly, dropping off around 30 percent during menopause. But if there’s a nice, chunky pool of collagen to pull from when the skin starts to shift its collagen supply, the hope is that fine lines, wrinkles, skin sagging, and loss of volume will be less pronounced.
@shereeneidriss ♬ original sound - ShereeneIdriss
@drwrinklestopper ♬ original sound - Dr.WrinkleStopper
Being fully literate in The Finances of Skin™ requires a bit of an investment upfront. At baseline, it necessitates using high-quality, "anti-aging" skincare products like retinoids, sunscreen (debatably the single most important), vitamin C, and peptides. But collagen banking can also go hard on prejuvenation, and cost thousands of dollars a year. Skin pros recommend everything from collagen and elastin-stimulating lasers, radiofrequency tools, and injectables to specific foods and taking supplements proven to boost natural collagen levels.
The good news: Crumm and board-certified dermatologists Ella Glaser, M.D. FAAD, and Jenny Liu, M.D. FAAD, have volunteered to be my collagen banking advisers. Here, they’re sharing everything to know about the skincare principle turned viral trend.
What Is Collagen?
Time for a crash course! To understand collagen banking, it’s key to comprehend the point of collagen. Collagen is a protein found throughout the body; in the vasculature, hair, bones, and tendons—it’s everywhere. Notably, “it is one of the main components in the skin’s dermis layer, a deeper layer, and it helps provide structure and strength to the skin,” explains Dr. Glaser. When we’re young and spry (read: under 25), collagen production runs like a well-oiled machine that keeps skin looking plump. But once the mid-to-late-20s roll around, production takes a hit. “It starts to decrease by about one percent a year and accelerates during menopause due to hormonal changes,” explains Dr. Liu.
What Is Collagen Banking?
Collagen banking is pretty similar to the concept of prejuvination—it’s all about being proactive when it comes to anti-aging, addressing concerns before they’re even concerns to being with. “The idea is to build and preserve your skin’s collagen reserves now, so that you can delay the visible signs of aging later,” says Crumm. “By maintaining elasticity and firmness early, you’re essentially saving your youthful glow for the future.”
While the term “collagen banking” is new (searches for “collagen banking” increased 100 percent in the past month, according to Google Trends), the concept has been a standard in dermatology practices for decades. It’s why there are so many skincare products and treatments that tout collagen production.
“The science behind collagen banking is real,” confirms Dr. Liu. “Numerous studies have shown that skincare ingredients like retinoids and treatments like fractional lasers can effectively boost collagen production.” That all said, collagen banking is a long-term strategy so don’t expect results overnight—it’s about prevention and maintaining skin health over time.
How Do I Collagen Bank?
“It’s a two-part approach: stimulate collagen production and protect what you already have,” says Crumm. “It’s about giving your skin the tools to stay strong and resilient over time.” Here, Marie Claire experts break down their top tips for how to collagen bank effectively.
Use High-Quality Skincare
My motto: all good skin starts with good skincare. If collagen banking is the goal, it’s key to curate a regimen of products that boost collagen production over time. “Retinoids (like prescription tretinoin or over-the-counter retinol) are collagen powerhouses,” says Crumm. “Exfoliants, like AHAs, can also promote cell turnover and keep collagen production alive.”
While you will want to have at least one of the above in your routine, supplementary skincare that keeps your face hydrated and healthy is just as important. Hydrating peptides are key to a balanced complexion, while vitamin C is important to protect existing collagen from damage.
Wear Sunscreen
Sun damage is the number one cause of aging—and dermatologists and beauty editors alike won’t let you forget it. UV exposure puts stress on the skin, which leads to inflammation and degradation of healthy collagen, which is why it’s so important to be protected with a broad-spectrum SPF. “Sun protection is the most important for collagen banking,” says Dr. Glaser. “If you are not wearing daily sunscreen, everything else you are doing for collagen banking is wasted money.” Good news: Marie Claire has dozens of recommendations for the best sunscreens.
Consider Doing Lasers
There’s no shortage of lasers and treatment devices, many of which were designed to boost collagen production by creating micro-injuries. That’s exactly what you can expect from a resurfacing laser like Fraxel, which damages deeper layers of the skin to stimulate remodeling. There are also radiofrequency and ultrasound devices like Thermage and Sofwave, respectively, that work to stimulate collagen by using heat. They warm up the lower layers of the skin to signal cells to create more collagen.
Oftentimes, your doctor will take a multi-modality approach and combine a handful of lasers to get the best results. While lasers can be incredibly impactful, they can cost a bit more money. Depending on location, laser, and physician, you may end up spending a few thousand dollars for a series of treatments. For example, Fraxel costs roughly $1,000, while Sofwave can cost close to $4,500.
Try Microneedling
I’m a big fan of at-home microneedling, which uses .5-millimeter needles. “It produces small micro-channels in the skin, which lead to new collagen and elastin production,” explains Dr. Glaser. There are also in-office microneedling procedures that use larger needles (think: 2-milimeter needles). “Radiofrequency is often paired with microneedling to defer heat at a controlled temperature and lead to the formation of new collagen as well as skin tightening.”
Do BioStimulatory Injectables
If you’re determined to improve your collagen bank, a bio-stimulatory filler, like Sculptra, is worth considering. While it will instantly improve skin volume, it also sends signals to your cells to boost collagen production, leaving your skin plumper well after the filler has been metabolized. As Dr. Glaser points out, studies have shown a 66 percent increase in collagen three months after injections.
Eat a Healthy Diet
A well-balanced diet is quite literally good for your skin. “There are certain foods that contain high levels of collagen such as red meat, fish, chicken, nuts, and beans,” says Dr. Glaser. “Look for foods that are rich in vitamin C, such as dark leafy greens, citrus fruits, and peppers, too.” While these nutrients do need to be broken down in order to harness the collagen, eating them over time will have a positive effect on your collagen bank.
Take Supplements
I’ll be totally honest: there aren’t many thorough studies that prove collagen supplements make a difference in overall collagen supply. There is some evidence, but Dr. Glaser notes that there is a lack of large-scale studies. “Collagen supplements vary in dose, concentration, and source, with the most common sources being fish, chicken, and bovine,” she says. That said, taking a collagen supplement can’t hurt (and it might help!). Crumm recommends hydrolyzed collagen peptides. “They’re easily absorbed and clinically shown to improve skin hydration.”
You may also want to consider a sun protection supplement, like Heliocare, to amp up your skin’s defense against UV damage.
When Should I Start Collagen Banking?
Ideally, collagen banking should begin in your 20s or early 30s, when natural collagen levels start to decline, says Dr. Liu. “Early intervention helps prevent significant collagen loss and maintains skin elasticity and firmness longer.” That said, it’s never too late to boost your collagen supply. As Crumm puts it: “Consistency is everything. Collagen banking isn’t a quick fix; it’s a long-term commitment.”
Can Collagen Banking Be Dangerous?
There’s no inherent harm to collagen banking—just make sure you’re using safe, evidence-based skincare products and receiving treatments from a board-certified provider. Still, you can have too much of a good thing. “Overuse of aggressive procedures and products like frequent laser treatments or high-strength retinoids can damage the skin barrier and cause irritation and undesired hyperpigmentation,” says Dr. Liu. That’s why you’ll always want to create your collagen banking plan alongside a board-certified dermatologist.
