We were due for a chat about cultural appropriation of South Asian culture — I mean, it is Coachella right now. But we’re not talking about Vanessa Hudgens or Kendal Jenner’s “boho chic” outfits. We’re talking about Oh Polly and Reformation — two fashion brands that followed the likes of H&M and Lovisa by appropriating South Asian culture.
On March 25, fast fashion brand Oh Polly posted a TikTok of its new “Galia convertible gown” — a baby pink bejeweled bodice with matching pleated wide leg trousers.
While some did ooh and aah, the comments section is now flooded with comments like this:
Oh Polly appeared to acknowledge the misstep, replying to some comments that the brand would “ be more mindful in ensuring that cultural elements are honoured with respect in our designs moving forward”.
However, fast forward two weeks later and the campaign — and TikToks — are still going strong.
Joining them in the uproar a few days later was Reformation, who dropped their collaboration with model and influencer Devon Lee Carlson.
Reformation explained the collab was inspired by Carlson’s “personal style and general vibes”, but one outfit in particular — a blue skirt, top and scarf — looked eerily similar to a ghagra choli.
Carson further claimed the ghagra choli knock-off was inspired by a 1990s vintage Galliano dress she was gifted by her mum’s boyfriend, telling Forbes: “It has this beautiful scarf that makes it really fun to style and extra emotional.”
Breaking it down, the “beautiful scarf” which you may know as the “Scandinavian scarf” after it went viral mid last year, is actually a dupatta — a scarf which is integral to much of South Asian traditional wear, like the ghagra choli.
And despite the backlash, Reformation — a brand claiming to champion sustainability, diversity, and inclusion — has not acknowledged the backlash.
Okay, but don’t you want representation?
Some have been questioning the criticism these brands are facing.
“I’m sorry — we complain when Western fashion isn’t inclusive and then complain when it diversifies? What?” one person on TikTok wrote.
Several comments like this and others who think we should “share” instead of gatekeep our culture have been left under TikToks discussing the appropriation of South Asian clothing.
From my perspective, as one South Asian woman out of (literally) billions, I have no issue with non-South Asians wearing South Asian clothing or being inspired by our culture. And, of course, fashion, music and food should be able to bring together various cultures.
The issue lies in the fact that there is an existing power imbalance between South Asian and Western culture. With hundreds of years of colonisation that have continued to impact South Asians and their connection to culture, it is deeply upsetting to have all the things that were deemed less than or uncivilised suddenly be trending fashion pieces now.
I grew up being embarrassed when my family wore traditional clothing outside, hiding my lunch box at school, and hating my own culture because I was made to feel so ashamed of it.
And now, fashion brands are trying to sell me these same clothes at a marked-up price?
When brands like Oh Polly and Reformation take our culture and decide to profit off it without acknowledgement of the artistry of the history behind the pieces, they take the aesthetics of the culture they deem worthy and then its people.
This cherry-picking from South Asian culture is very evident when both these brands decided to drop their pieces at a time when racism against South Asians has been flowing online and has grown across the world.
So while the white models on my screen tell me to buy the “very European” summer Scandinavian scarf in order to copy Carlson’s ‘It-girl’ style, I’m battling the racism in my comments section telling me to go back to where I came from, telling me I’m dirty, telling me I’m the reason people in Australia can’t afford housing.
But on the bright side, we know that cultural appreciation does exist.
In 2022, fast fashion brand ASOS released its South Asian-inspired wedding collection, collaborating with London-based South Asian brand Kanya London. On its website, ASOS discusses how the idea behind this collection didn’t come out of thin air or just to jump on a trend, but from their employees with South Asian heritage and its South Asian Sounding Board.
ASOS walks us through the process: “We consulted our South Asian Sounding Board (a group of ASOSers of South Asian heritage), who had input on everything from the design and the model selection to the shoot.”
The consultation, with and the acknowledgement of South Asians in the making of these pieces, is exactly what needs to be done by fast fashion brands.
“Can I wear a scarf with my dress without being cancelled?”
Again, I’m one South Asian girl and I don’t speak for the entire South Asian community. South Asian culture is beautiful and I love that people are finally realising it, but to wear our culture without knowing the culture, without crediting it and buying it off of websites like Oh Polly and Reformation contributes to the issue.
I think the easy answer to whether you’ll be “cancelled” for chucking on a scarf with your dress is asking yourself whether you even know someone who is South Asian, let alone are friends with them.
South Asian brands you can shop from!
And if you are going to do the work and appreciate the beauty of South Asian culture, here are some sustainable South Asian fashion businesses you can support while living your Bollywood Princess dreams:
- Kifyaat – an Australian business where you can buy pre-loved South Asian fashion and accessories
- I was a sari – A circular fashion brand that reuses sari scraps and, at the same time, a social enterprise that transforms disadvantaged women.
- PurvX – A global online marketplace for Indian and South Asian clothing and items, offering a wide selection of new and used.
The battle of feeling represented as an Indian woman is like being in a toxic relationship — being drip-fed just enough to make you think they’ll do better next time, only to be let down again.
While I’m sure it won’t be long before we have to talk about this again, I hope it’s something I don’t hear about for a while.
Lead image: TikTok
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