Julia Child's passion for French cuisine made her one of the most beloved and enduring personalities in television history. But "Julia," a new series on her life, is most scrumptious when it concentrates on the author's appetite for her doting husband.
"The show is about the birth of television," showrunner Chris Keyser said during a recent virtual chat, along with other cast members. "But it's also about the birth of a modern marriage."
That doesn't mean it was a perfect union. The eight episodes, three of which are currently streaming on HBO Max, start in the early 1960s when Child (Sarah Lancashire) is out promoting a new cookbook. She gets a taste of TV — and wants more.
Hubby Paul Child (David Hyde Pierce) isn't initially enthusiastic. To him, the small screen is a passing fad. Plus, he's just had to give up a high-profile government job and is killing time painting second-rate art. He's worried about getting overshadowed.
But ego is no match for devotion.
Before too long, he's picking up menial tasks on the set and keeping his wife's spirits up at home.
The scene in which the pajama-clad couple twirl around their bedroom to "I Could Have Danced All Night" is as erotic as any steamy romp in "Bridgerton." In the series' most triumphant moment, Paul confronts Julia's father (James Cromwell), who's convinced that the only reason anyone would lust for his daughter is for her inheritance.
"How sad you can't see what I see," Paul quietly responds, a comeback with more resonance than any slap Will Smith could deliver.
"Paul was accomplished in so many areas," said Pierce, who just may add another Emmy to the four he has already won for playing Niles Crane on "Frasier." "But he also had this amazing love affair with this amazing woman. We get to see how deeply these two loved each other through thick and thin."
Paul wasn't the only one crazy about Julia. The series also introduces us to several dedicated female friends, including book editor Judith Jones (Fiona Glascott), who played a key role in publishing "The Diary of Anne Frank" and worked extensively with John Updike. She's so inspired by the bubbly cookbook author that she's ready to give up her seat at the literati table to go play in the kitchen.
The show's writers, led by "Marvelous Mrs. Maisel" veteran Daniel Goldfarb, do a first-rate job of proving that wit and confidence can be just as sexy as "Dr. No" sensation Ursula Andress emerging from the water in a bikini.
Lancashire doesn't necessarily sound like Child (for a more pitch-perfect impersonation, check out Meryl Streep's take in "Julia and Julia") but she nails her character's unsinkable disposition.
"I spent many, many hours just watching her. But that's not a hardship," said Lancashire, best known for British hits like "Happy Valley." "She's a joy to watch. You kind of want to be in her company and she makes you feel better about the world. She's a tonic."
If that sounds appetizing, dig in. Bon appetit!
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'JULIA'
Rating: TV-MA
Where to watch: Premiered Thursday on HBO Max
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