While they never really went away, courgettes are back in abundance at Testaccio market. Also in Margate, according to my friend and ingredient-synchronicity checker, Adriana. This morning, Marco, who grows vegetables in a green belt of Rome called Casaletto, had crates of dark green and bulbous nero di Milano, as well as pale green and fluted romanesco, each topped with a flower that made them look like a flaming candle or a Troll Doll with upcombed hair. I bought six, with spaghetti in mind.
According to the magazine La Cucina Italiana, spaghetti alla Nerano dates back to the early 1950s and was the result of happenstance at Ristorante Maria Grazia, which is situated metres from the sea in the Marina del Cantone, on the edge of Nerano on the Sorrento coast. The story is familiar: a regular customer (a prince) arrived (maybe) at an unusual hour and was made a meal with what was available in the kitchen, namely, thin slices of courgette that had been fried that morning and the leftovers of three local cheeses, which at the time did not include provolone del Monaco or parmesan. The dish was a hit, so it was made again and again until it was perfected and became a fixture on the menu, soon rippling out like a wave to other menus in other restaurants, and so on and so on. Exactly how it was perfected at Ristorante Maria Grazia remains a secret, of course. The ingredients might be common knowledge – courgettes, basil, olive oil, pepper, spaghetti, three cheeses – but the procedure and quantities are known only to the family, meaning their spaghetti alla Nerano can only be eaten at their tables with a sea view for €24. Meanwhile, we home cooks can be inspired by the spirit of the dish to make something a bit like spaghetti alla Nerano, by frying rounds of courgette in olive oil and mixing them with basil, garlic, spaghetti and three sorts of cheese.
Having opened up the choice of cheese to what is available, they do need to be cheeses that melt into a sort of cream. If you can find the suggested provolone and caciocavallo, both of which are semi-hard, cow’s milk, stretched-curd cheeses, they are ideal. As is provolone del Monaco, which is often mentioned in relation to this recipe and made with milk from agerolese cows. Beyond these, though, explore any semi-hard, stretched-curd cheeses (there is a list on Wikipedia, and the variety is wondrous) mixed with parmesan, piave, grana padano, pecorino or even Old Winchester. The cheese is best grated on the vicious, star side of a box grater, which creates a soft crumb that, on meeting the oil, starchy pasta water and heat, melts into a kind of cream.
Spaghetti with courgettes and cheese (inspired by spaghetti alla nerano)
Serves 4
700g courgettes, washed, topped and tailed
Olive oil
450g spaghetti
Salt and black pepper
1 garlic clove, peeled and left whole
1 big handful of basil
150g mix of 3 grated cheeses – provolone, caciocavallo, parmesan, grana, or whatever is in the fridge
Using a mandoline or a knife, cut the courgettes into roughly 2mm- thick rounds, then pat dry with a clean tea towel.
Heat a good amount of oil in a frying pan over a medium-low heat, then fry the courgette in batches until golden on both sides. Lift out with a slotted spoon and on to a plate, keeping the oil in the pan.
Cook the spaghetti in boiling salted water. Meanwhile, in the same frying pan over a medium-low flame, gently fry the garlic in the oil remaining until golden. Remove and discard the garlic, then add three-quarters of the courgettes, rip over the basil leaves, then let them take on the flavour for a minute.
Drain the spaghetti, reserving a little of its cooking water, or lift directly into the pan with the courgettes and basil with a spider sieve, adding a ladle of water and half the cheese. Finish cooking the pasta over a very low heat, gradually adding more water and the remaining cheese, stirring and jolting the pan until a sort of cream is created.
Divide between four plates, topping then top each with a few of the remaining courgettes you set aside and a generous grind of pepper.
Discover Rachel’s recipes and many more from your favourite cooks in the new Guardian Feast app, with smart features to make everyday cooking easier and more fun. Start your free trial today.
