Prague has built up a reputation in recent years as one of the best places to go for a booze-soaked break — often as part of a rowdy stag or hen party.
However, when you look past the bustling nightlife of the Czech capital — assuming your eyes aren’t too bleary — there is so much more to drink in all around you.
On a visit to Prague and the Central Bohemia region, I learned a lot about some of the Czech Republic’s most prized traditions — yes, including beer — and how they can give the modern traveller a glimpse into this country’s storied past.
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Our first day took in two of Prague’s most famous attractions — Charles Bridge and the towering Astronomical Clock (Orloj) in the Old Town Square, which treats the crowds watching below to an eye-catching procession of the 12 apostles.
It was away from these crowds though that our main focus was on, and so in the shadow of the Orloj we entered the intricate world of traditional glass blowing.
Here, as a furnace roared in the background, the heat was really on as we had to try our hand — and mouth — at this ancient craft.
Thankfully, there are experts on-site to do the really dangerous parts for you — otherwise, not being particularly blessed with practical skills myself, you might have been reading about the Great Fire of Prague in the news pages here instead.
Still, coming away from the workshop with a shiny new tumbler and a heart-shaped necklace that I had moulded felt like a good evening’s work and getting a blow-by-blow account of how these amazing glass creations are produced really gives you an appreciation of the time and effort put into making them.
This was also evident on a trip to a glassworks factory in the Central Bohemian town of Podebrady, about an hour from Prague by car or train — which showed glass-making, dating back to the Middle Ages in the Czech Republic, on a far larger scale.
Though not as interactive as the workshop, it’s well worth a visit for anyone with a passing interest in design or manufacturing.
The town of Podebrady is also famous for its spa, which was established in the early 20th century after a mineral spring was discovered in the local chateau.
This mineral water is used to treat various diseases such as diabetes, high blood pressure and heart conditions, while the spa is located in beautiful parkland which all goes towards creating an extremely relaxing environment for anyone looking to indulge in a treatment.
In between Prague and Podebrady is the open-air museum of Prerov nad Labem, which will transport you back in time to see what life was like a couple of centuries ago.
Here, you can wander around dozens of old buildings such as granaries, barns, mills and cottages and marvel at how people in those hard times — long before all the modern conveniences we enjoy now were invented — found a way to survive and thrive.
Another day trip well worth taking is to Kutna Hora, the ‘city of silver’, which is 90 minutes from Prague.
A UNESCO site, Kutna Hora gets its name from being host to a once-prosperous mining town whose production of silver led it to almost rival Prague in stature.
Though the mines were abandoned in the late 18th century, their rich legacy lives on in impressive buildings such as the Gothic-style St Barbara’s Church and the Italian Court, formerly a royal residence and mint.
It’s also possible to go down into the mines yourself, and navigating through some ever-shrinking tunnels really highlights the horrifying conditions in which the miners had to work — certainly giving me some perspective next time I complain about my WiFi connection.
One tradition that goes somewhat under the radar in the Czech Republic is the making of marionettes or puppets, but in fact this craft has been recognised by UNESCO as being of “intangible cultural heritage” — such as hurling or uilleann piping in Ireland.
And so, with Master Of Puppets hitmakers Metallica appropriately playing a show in Prague during our visit, we headed to another workshop to make our own marionettes.
OK, ‘make’ may be stretching it a bit as puppeteer Pavel had done all the hard work, but we still had to paint the head ourselves and though mine didn’t compare to his Michael Jackson or Freddie Mercury, I was still proud of my little Dancing Queen.
In a not-too-dissimilar vein to puppetry, we also paid a visit to the National Theatre of the Czech Republic, a hugely impressive feat of architecture situated in Prague’s New Town.
A must-see if you’re an art lover, Czech masterpieces adorn the walls while the ornate decorations do not skimp on the gold — plus there is the bonus of stunning views over the city from its balcony.
Having mentioned the Czech passion for beer earlier, it was slightly surprising to learn that the country has a proud tradition of wine-making too — with eight vineyards in Prague, though the majority of Czech wine is made in the southern Moravia region.
We visited St Claire’s Vineyard in the Troja region of Prague, and, complete with its own chateau, it was almost like a little corner of Burgundy had been transplanted to the city.
Production is small but after a stroll through the vineyard (more of a climb really as it is situated on a slope) on a sunny day, there’s no better way to refresh yourself than by sampling the local vintage.
The final word on Czech traditions will of course have to go to its beer-making — and a visit to a brewery was the perfect place to soak up the knowledge of this craft.
And Brevnov Monastery Brewery is no ordinary brewery either — as it is on the site of a working Benedictine monastery. Sadly, we didn’t spy any of the monks making the beer themselves — possibly they had more monastic duties to attend to.
Established in 993, it’s fair to say they know their stuff by now and a tour of the brewery and its grounds offers some fascinating insights into the brewing process. The IPA comes very highly recommended, though regrettably is not exported — you will just have to travel to Prague to get one!
So, if you’re looking to explore more of Prague beyond its bars and nightlife, you can see there is a lot happening behind the scenes — and that the old Czech traditions are still going strong and helping to make the city one of Europe’s most vibrant capitals.
Fact file
Where to stay The Golden Key in Mala Strana is a boutique hotel with an ideal location — away from the crowds but within walking distance of the major attractions.
What to eat Czech cuisine can be a carnivores’ paradise with signature dishes including vepro knedlo zelo (roast pork with dumplings and cabbage) but their vegetarian options have improved in recent years. The elegant Municipal House Restaurant offers a modern take on traditional fare, while a newer eatery worth checking out is Cerveny Jelen (Red Stag), housed in a former bank.
How to get there Aer Lingus operates regular flights to Prague from Dublin.
More information See www.visitczechrepublic.com
