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This weekend, Europe’s biggest street party is back with a whir of colour, dance and song. It is a spectacle like no other and 2024 is destined to be as emphatic as ever.
The 57th edition of Notting Hill Carnival will begin on Saturday, returning to the streets of west London by way of parades and floats and processions. Since 1966, carnival has been a celebration of British Caribbean culture and diversity. The floats always dazzle, performers blaze in glitter and gold, and sound systems reverberate through mouthfuls of jerk chicken and gulps of heady Red Stripe.
Each year, more than two million people — including thousands of tourists — descend on W10 to watch mas, soca and calypso and Brazilian band performers, hear steel drums play and follow the three-and-a-half mile parade route.
Today, Notting Hill Carnival is thought to generate as much as £300 million for the London economy. But it has never been about the money: when the first was held in 1964, racial tensions in Britain were running high, and carnival was a strength of unity. Fast-forward to 2024 and recent events would suggest such solidarity is as pertinent now as it was then.
The Trinidadian-style festival has always acted as a tonic, a show of togetherness and pride. Today, there is still a way to go as far as true equality is concerned. Carnival brings a convivial party atmosphere above all else and attendees come from all walks of life.
Highlights of the weekend
As is customary, carnival proper is preceded by the UK National Panorama Steel Band Competition, which takes place in Emslie Horniman’s Pleasance Park and gets going at 4pm on Saturday afternoon.
Organisers say the music “sets the standard for the weekend… watch the sun set, eat Caribbean street food and enjoy the sweet sound of pan while the steel bands get on with the serious business of impressing the judges.” This year brings five competing bands, including defending champions Ebony Steelband, Croydon Steel Orchestra, and Mangrove.
Then comes j’ouvert, from the French “jour ouvert”, or “opening of the day”. As Sunday dawns, crowds gather from 6am and parade floats and music kick off at noon, running officially until 5pm. As ever, Sunday is geared more towards family and so suits those will children.
Still, make no mistake: Sunday is no calm, pared-back experience. Mayhem is set off by way of brightly coloured paint and powder, and even melted chocolate might sail through the air. The energy is infectious — it begins here, and it will carry on until Monday, if not beyond.
Midday Sunday also marks the first of the sound systems and stages, each rooted in Caribbean culture and encapsulating sounds from across the islands. Expect everything from rare groove to house to samba. On the two live stages, don’t miss Red Bull Selector at Pleasance Park. Headlining this year and Lil Silva and Shy One. Both the live stages and the sound systems will play till 7pm on Sunday.
Carnival really cranks up on Monday, when the adults’ day begins. For carnival virgins, this is party time. Performers — donning, between them, 30 million sequins and more than 15,000 feather plumes, not to mention more than 30 litres of body paint — will tour the procession route from 10.30am until 7pm. “You can really feel the intensity of the party vibes,” says organisers. “Time to free up and just revel in the joy that is carnival.”
It’s true: guests are encouraged to wear their own costumes, and many do; the rum flows and the smell of jerk chicken fills the air; you cannot move for dancing. Be sure to check out as many stages as possible, where the likes of King Tubby’s, Abi Shanti I, and Platinum Soul Sound will be providing the perfect backdrop — more may be announced on the weekend, organisers tend to do these things last minute — and don’t, whatever you do, leave hungry.
After that? Each year, there are various unofficial after parties to head to (if you can blag an invite). In general, when planning for either Sunday or Monday, it’s worth remembering the days kick off at about 10am, and wind down at 7pm, with all parades, sound systems and stalls done by 8pm. Both days are free to attend, and are unticketed.
How to get there
Much of W10 is closed over the carnival weekend and traffic surrounding Notting Hill will be busier than usual. The entire area becomes trickier to get to: all the Santander cycle stations will be closed from Saturday to Tuesday, while many of the usual buses with either be rerouted or will stop short of their usual destination. The full list of disruptions can be found on tfl.gov.uk.
The best way to attend is using the Tube; head to Paddington Station (the Bakerloo, Circle, District, Hammersmith and Elizabeth lines all service it). From there, Carnival is about a 20 minute walk away. Shepherd’s Bush is a little further away, around 40 minutes, but like Paddington will be open all day.
There are tube stops closure to the action itself, but expect them to be extremely crowded, and beware of various restrictions: Ladbroke Grove will be closed all day on Sunday and Monday, while Holland Park will close from 3pm (and will be entry only from 11am), and Royal Oak will close at 6pm (entry only from 11am). Notting Hill will be exit-only from 11am-6pm, but beware that only Central Line trains will be stopping.
Getting home? Beware that that Latimer Road closes a tad earlier than usual, at 11.30pm, and neither the Night Tube nor the Night Overground will run on either Sunday or Monday nights. If you’re leaving long before that — say, when things wind down at 7/8pm, that long queues at the nearest Tube stops are par for the course. It’s usually easier to walk a bit further out and go from there.
What to eat and drink
There are more than 300 food stalls for carnival. As much as five tonnes of chicken is cooked each year alongside about 30,000 corn on the cobs and endless plates of rice and peas. Overall, five million drinks are served, including about 25,000 bottles of rum and an uncountable number of cans of Red Stripe, Carib, and other beers.Below, Reggae Reggae sauce founder Levi Roots shares his top places to eat.
Curtis Caribbean
Location: Middle Lane
“This one is a must for seafood, bakes and cakes, and the selection is very good. You won’t just find the usual classics here, which is why I love checking it out.”
Jay Dees Catering
Location: Lancaster Road
“I really like this one. It’s a small shop, but the juicy jerk chicken and rice and peas is banging. I think the best thing is that you can see the food being cooked right in front of you while you wait.”
Grannies Caribbean Jerk Shack
Location: Powis Square
“Specialising in spicy jerk chicken, Jamaican rum fruit cakes, curry goat, jerk wraps, veggie curry and macaroni cheese, Grannies is one of my absolute favourites. It remains authentic and is still family run.”
Cottons Restaurant
Location: Notting Hill Gate
“If you’re looking for a lazy Caribbean food experience, this one’s for you. In case you don’t fancy queuing in the street, and would rather avoid eating out of paper plates, Cottons is a proper restaurant, and a lovely one at that.”
The Jerk Hub
Location: Golborne Road
“Good for boneless jerk chicken, coleslaw and rice and peas, this is one that many Carnival-goers swear by, and rightly so.”
Universal Hot Pot
Location: Middle Row
“Universal Hot Pot specialises in carnival food with an African twist so, if you fancy something a little different from the usual offerings, it’s a good choice. The jollof rice is a must.”
Mr Roy Jerk Chicken
Location: Goldborne Road
“At Mr Roy’s, the best thing is their authentic spicy Jerk, the slow-cooked oxtail and their famous curry goat. The owner Mr Roy is always on hand for a chat, and you won’t find a lovelier gentleman at carnival.”
