When O.P. Garden (Charoenkrung 36), an upscale arty-boutique community mall, opened some years back, the developers, TCC Land, declared it the wellspring that would launch a local renaissance.
They were right: there's a cosmopolitan vibrancy here now that's palpable. And, as optimism abounds, COCA's move to fold its Mango Tree branch at OPG, and retool it as a modern French restaurant with a penchant for Provencale and Mediterranean cuisine, hardly seems audacious.
The setting for this foray into culinary art de vivre in the heart of Bangkok is a delight – a white and lime antique teak villa on stilts with a chic garden, chill-out terrace and dignified dining room. Reason enough to head over (a 20-minute walk from Saphan Taksin BTS; less by boat to Oriental Pier, Soi 40; parking plentiful).
Should you still hesitate, factor in Executive Chef Frederic Guerin's experience with five Michelin-star mentors, stints in NYC and LA, and no butter or cream prescription indulging natural flavours.
Ingredients are meticulously sourced, including greenery and chemical- and hormone-free proteins from COCA Boutique Farm, veggies, herbs and honey from Royal Projects, and French fish.
The bread basket – a wooden crate containing focazzia-flavour melba toast with olive, olive oil and anchovy tapenade (not unlike caviar) and tomato-chili harissa – sets the tone.
We began with Squid Ink Croquette (B350); squid meat sautéed with bechamel, rolled in charcoal breadcrumbs, crispy fried, planted in saffron aioli, drizzled with basil and chili oil, capped with Parmesan (B350++). Addictive.
Fish Soup (B550++) aka Bouillabaise, is a thick, even broth mixing monk fish and cod with potato, tomato, carrot, fennel and basil. Served in the traditional Marseille style, you slather saffron rouille onto toasted corn bread, sprinkle grated cheese, then launch on the soup to go slightly soggy before plopping in your mouth. "Yummy" doesn't cover it.
Mains centre around duck, fish and beef. Bangkok Farm Honey Duck Breast (420) features birds from Petchaboon with superb flavour, lean yet firm, leaving no residue. With earthy-fruity Turkish figs and honey puree a perfect counterfoil to the gaminess of the meat, juicy grilled pear and slightly tart glazed daikon radish, it's peerless.
Fish papillotte (B380++) is a wonderful waft of Mediterranean zest. Top grade snapper is marinated with olive oil, white wine, basil, and rosemary then folded with tomato, black olives and pine nuts into a paper "papillotte" that fuses the flavours and aromas while being baked. Definitively delicious.
Nor do the desserts disappoint. Nougat Glace (B290++) takes one of Guerin's grandmother's recipes for nougat, including honey, pistachios, almonds, candied orange, and turns it into ice cream with similar physical properties to French toast only colder. Awesome.
Another delight is Zucchini Cake (B290++), carrot cake substituted with citrus-seasoned zucchini, served with olive oil ice cream. The soft, moist cake and ice cream are a dream team.
The in-house mixologist with a London bar background adds creative cocktails to the offering. Plus craft Thai beers, and wines from 190/glass.
Inside and under the eaves flowers and herbs dry in upside down bunches a la Provencale potpourri. In the garden, foliage, parasols and shadows draw the sting from the afternoon sun and flickering candles illuminate evening. As Café del Mar music flows, attentive waiters in classic French blue and white hooped shirts and waitresses in black and white keep the vibes cool.
Mimosa Sunday Brunch (11-4) entails 1 hour free-flow mimosa and a mains dish @ B600.
Open Mon – Sat 11.30-11.00, Sunday 11.00-11.00. Tel. 02 238 6400.
