Essex saffron producer David Smale harvests his precious crop: 'In the Middle Ages, England was the world's biggest saffron producer, and this area was at the heart of it... it seemed to me ridiculous we no longer grew it'Photograph: Michael Thomas Jones/GuardianUnlike the fsmiliar spring variety, saffron crocuses bud in late October early November depending upon the weather. Photograph: Michael Thomas Jones/GuardianDavid Smale's plot near Saffron Walden, Essex: 'Saffron isn't cheap, and I cultivate only an acre or so'Photograph: Michael Thomas Jones/Guardian
Smale picks the crop himself over a period of 2 weeks before the flowers spoil. Care must be taken not to damage the grass around the flowers or the bud will not regrow.Photograph: Michael Thomas Jones/GuardianProducer David Smale separates the edible stamen from the saffron flowers. 'We do everything by hand – planting, picking and processing,' says Smale. ' You have to with such a delicate product.' Photograph: Michael Thomas Jones/GuardianThe stamen are dried before being packed into tins and jars: 'You really don't need much of it in cooking', says Smale; 'a classic saffron risotto for four, for instance, takes 10 or so strands'Photograph: Michael Thomas Jones/GuardianThere is a recent developing trend for the vivid purple, fragrant flowers, to be sold on as confetti in Indian wedding ceremoniesPhotograph: Michael Thomas Jones/GuardianJars are sold on to clients such as Fortnum and Masons, says Smale: "Our premium product can sell for as much as £15 for 0.2g [30-40 strands-worth].' Photograph: Michael Thomas Jones/GuardianDavid Smale Saffron ProducerPhotograph: Michael Thomas Jones/Guardian
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