As a beauty editor I have spent years trying to perfect my skincare routine. I'm not saying I've achieved this, in fact every day I learn something new about my skin and its needs, but I have spent a lot of time over the past 10 years fine tuning my product choices and finding out which textures, formulas and ingredients work best for me.
It hasn't always been this way, I used to be terrible with my skin, particularly in my early 20s. I would often go to sleep in a full face of make-up (I was too busy partying to concern myself with the benefits of double cleansing) and used to use whatever was cheapest on the shelves at Boots. But now that I have years of industry knowledge under my belt, I know what works and what doesn't. For example, I know that I have dry and dehydrated skin, so my skin lacks both oil and water and I need my routine to reflect both of those needs. I'm also well into my 30s, so the early signs of ageing aren't so early anymore and I've got two kids, so of course my skin reflects everything that comes with having young children.
I know what my skin needs and thanks to years in the industry, I know exactly which ingredients I can rely on to keep my skin in the best condition.
1. Hyaluronic Acid
As I said, I have dry skin - that's my skin type, which means I produce less oil - but I also have really dehydrated skin, which means my skin is lacking in moisture. I've learnt over the years that to keep my dehydration in check I need to enlist the help of hyaluronic acid.
Dr Anjali Mahto, medical and cosmetic consultant dermatologist says that it's "essentially a very large sugar molecule with a gel-like consistency. HA has a unique capacity to bind water 1000 times its own weight in water. Its purpose in the skin is to keep it soft, plump, and hydrated. HA is a popular constituent in skincare due to its moisturising properties."
You mostly find it in serums and creams and I always make sure that one step of my routine has it in. It helps to relieve tightness, the the creases on my forehead are less severe and my skin looks a little more dewy.
My favourite hyaluronic acid products
This is a beautiful serum that packs a punch. It's been formulated with a duo of hyaluronic acid that Clarins has dubbed the Hyaluronic Power Complex+. What that means is that it supercharges hydration and has 13x longer lasting power than your average hyaluronic acid.
I have used this cream for years and years. Whenever I take a break my skin feels it, so I always come back for more. I apply it in the morning before my SPF and my skin drinks it in. The brand has combined squalane with hyaluronic acid for extra skin soothing hydration. And I'm hooked. Even if you don't have dehydrated skin, you will love the feel of this lightweight, but nourishing cream.
2. Vitamin C
Vitamin C (alongside SPF and retinoids) has become one of my trio of anti-ageing heroes. I have had to pivot my routine to start targeting skin issues that didn't even occur to me in my twenties. The combination of dehydration, sun damage that occurred when I was a lot younger (before I knew how vital wearing a facial sunscreen was) and lack of sleep means that I often wake up to incredibly lifeless, dull skin. There isn't a day that goes by when I don't use this super-powered antioxidant in the morning.
I have tried some of the best vitamin C serum's on the market and I've learnt that it's all about potency. Not only is it key for brightening, but it's also essential for helping the daily fight with pollution and pigmentation. "Vitamin C has a number of well-recognised effects in the skin," Dr Mahto says. "It is a true multi-purpose ingredient. It will aid collagen synthesis (collagen is the main protein of the skin giving it support) and regular use after six months can help reduce the appearance of fine lines."
My favourite vitamin C products
Yes, this is an expensive skincare product and I'm fully aware that not everyone is willing to spend that amount. But every single dermatologist that I have spoken to about my sun damage has recommended this as the vitamin C serum I should be using. And so I do. And I love it. It contains 15% L-Ascorbic Acid, which is the most effective form of vitamin C for your skin. This one is aimed at those with dry skin, like mine, but if you have oily skin opt for Phloretin CF.
My dark circles are a constant stress. Not only are mine hereditary, so they're not going anywhere any time soon, I regularly add puffiness to the equation through lack of sleep thanks to late nights with my youngest. I rely heavily on the best concealer, however I rely on it a lot less since using this clever vitamin C-charged eye cream. It uses colour correcting to counteract the blue in my bags. It's like the best undereye brightener you can get your hands on.
3. Vitamin A
As I hit my 30s I knew the time had come to start using vitamin A (aka retinoids). That's not to say that everyone should start around then, but I felt like it was my time. It has been described as "the gold standard in anti-ageing" so many times and with good reason. This punchy ingredient is capable of many things, including encouraging cell turnover, boosting collagen, evening out skin tone and fading pigmentation.
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives and they key to figuring them out all lies in concentrations and conversions. Our skin can only really work with retinoic acid, which is the strongest concentration and only found in prescription products. All other retinoids have to convert into this. Retinaldehyde is the next strongest and only has to convert once, this is followed by retinol that converts twice and finally retinol esters (also known as retinyl palmitate), the mildest of all, which convert three times. The more conversions, the less effective the retinoid is and the higher the concentration, the better results you're going to get.
As is always recommended with a product containing retinoids, I started slow and low. I introduced a serum with a low percentage once a week, gradually upping my use to every other day. And once my skin seemed happy I took it up a notch and increase the percentage. I always, always, wear an SPF the next day, as skin is more sensitive to UVA and UVB rays.
"Start using retinol when you see the first signs of reduced skin elasticity, fine lines and also irregular pigmentation," advises Dr Stefanie Williams, cosmetic dermatologist and Director of the Eudelo clinic. ‘Even if you can’t build up to any more than two days per week it’s still effective and worth doing so don’t be put off.'
I have had breaks - mainly down to pregnancies - but when I am using it regularly I notice a drastic change to the texture, tone and appearance of my skin.
My favourite vitamin A products:
Medik8's Crystal Retinal product line is a perfect way to navigate this sometimes tricky and confusing ingredient. You can start with Crystal Retinal 1, then work your way up to 3, 6, 10 and even 20. It contains encapsulated retinaldehyde, so you know that you're getting the best possible retinoid, but the chances of any skin reaction is lowered.
