Usually when I go out for food as part of this job, I'm trying gut busting food challenges or stirring up heated debates by comparing much loved local delicacies. So when fancy new restaurant Ewe opened with the promise of bringing Manchester city centre 'flamboyance' to my hometown of Bolton, I thought it the perfect time to broaden my culinary horizons.
Although in the borough of Bolton, the restaurant is actually in Westhoughton - a town in its own right and one that is fast becoming something of a hidden gem for food and drink with established eateries such as Casa Nostra being joined in the town centre by exciting ventures such as the stylish KOO cocktail bar, stunning Italian restaurant Nabucco, and Absolute Bar and Bistro to name just a few.
Ewe, meanwhile, is not in Westhoughton town centre but on the A6 Chorley Road, looking out towards Winter Hill and the magnificent University of Bolton Stadium. When I pulled up outside the restaurant, I couldn't really admire the spectacular view as it was absolutely tipping it down, but, due to being a Monday in early January, there was thankfully plenty of parking spaces close to the doors.
READ MORE : Inside Ewe - the restaurant and bar 'bringing city centre to the suburbs' with £1m makeover
Local designer Gary Macpherson said he was aiming to create a 'rural, cosy feel' in the venue and it certainly felt very warm and welcoming once I stepped inside, especially when compared with the dreadful weather I was escaping. When I was first shown around the restaurant in November, it wasn't quite finished, so getting to see the spacious venue in all its glory was a treat.
One of the most striking features is a baby grand piano that takes pride of place between the onyx-tiled bar and the main restaurant area. There are also seven sheep's head models on the far wall, which my eyes kept being drawn to throughout the evening.
Ewe's menu is described as modern British cuisine with signature dishes inspired by the elements of earth, water and air. There are also pizzas, pasta dishes and steaks, along with a selection of small plates and salads.
From photographs I have seen, the beef wellington looks spectacular, so it was a slight disappointment to learn that it was not available on my visit. However there were still enough mouth-watering options to leave me utterly spoiled for choice.
It was tempting to play it really safe and just go for a pizza, with the spicy nduja sausage one (£14.50) particularly catching my eye, but I instead opted for the crispy pork belly (£19.50) as my main. My dining partner chose the incredible sounding wild boar ragù (£19), which our server David assured us was an 'excellent choice'. We also chose a couple of the small plates as starters, opting for the black truffle arancini (£7.50) and sourdough bruschetta (£6).
We did not have to wait too long for the small plates. Despite the name of the arancini, I was quite taken aback by how they looked. I presumed the black truffle would be entirely confined to the inside but the outer breadcrumb coating was pitch black. The balls are served on a leaf, with a dollop of lemon aioli and a little bit of watercress in the middle of them.
The deep, earthy flavours of the truffle worked well with the more subtle taste of the melted cheese, as did the mix of textures from the crispy coating to the soft filling. The aioli also had just enough zing that it did not overpower the other flavours. I mostly steered clear of the bruschetta, as tomatoes are not for me, but my dining partner (who is seemingly after my job) helpfully told me that the "creaminess of the burrata offset the natural acidity of the poached tomato".
Several minutes after our plates had been collected, the main courses were brought out. Restaurants that are considered 'fancy' often have a reputation of serving small portions but this was certainly not the case here.
The crispy pork belly was generously sized and was presented really well - on a small bed of mash with tiny pork crackling bits scattered around. In the corner there were strands of celeriac, coated in mustard, and greens wrapped around slices of baked apple.
Cutting through the pork belly brought a really satisfying crunch and the different textures of the cut were really pleasing, with parts of it just melting away in my mouth. It was quite indulgent, so perhaps not the main to order if you're on a January health kick but I was more than satisfied that I had made the right choice, with the unavailable beef wellington becoming a distant memory.
It was also served with a pouring sauce, that the very knowledgeable and experienced server David informed me was a red wine jus. This was a lovely complement to the pork but to be honest, it did not need it, as it was good enough by itself.
If I had any complaint with my main, it would probably be the baked apple slices, which I had never tried before and will be in no rush to try again, but I may just have unsophisticated taste buds and it is not like you have to eat them anyway as they are on the side.
As for the ragú, the pulled texture of the wild boar complemented the thick pappardelle really well, while the sauce was both rich and delicious, but not too heavy. On the side we ordered truffled crushed baby potatoes (£5) which were really creamy and in a mashed consistency, but, after the starter, the dish was a bit of a truffle overload for me.
I was feeling suitably full after the main course but when there is a dessert on the menu called 'Ewe Plant Pot' (£7.50) with 'chocolate soil' and an 'edible garden', it would be rude to turn it down. We also ordered a more traditional option of sticky toffee pudding (£7.50).
True to its name, our first dessert was served in a plant pot with the 'garden' consisting of berries and edible plants on a bed of chocolate sprinkles that had been made to look like soil. It was really visually exciting and my worries that it would be all style and no substance were unfounded. It was really bloody good.
Underneath the 'soil' was a delightfully smooth panna cotta and the whole dessert just tasted so fresh. The sticky toffee pudding was also divine, and the sharp stem ginger ice cream that was served alongside it was the perfect companion.
We were in and out of the restaurant in well under an hour and a half, which for three courses, I found really impressive. It was a Monday in January so I would be interested to see how much busier it gets on a weekend and how the speed of service is affected, but the team seem really on top of their game, with sister venue 'Yours' already a success in Manchester.
Ewe is yet another exciting addition to Westhoughton's thriving food and drink scene.
Ewe Restaurant and Bar, 370 Chorley Rd, Westhoughton, Bolton, BL5 3NB
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