The Middle Eastern herb za’atar, which is also known as Syrian oregano, or Origanum syriacum, grows across the Levant and has a unique and intoxicating flavour similar to thyme and marjoram, but with a broader, longer leaf. Za’atar is most commonly known, however, as a spice mix that contains the herb, usually combined with sesame seeds, cumin, coriander and sumac, and that has a sour, citrus twang.
Like many others, Acme Fire Cult, a barbecue restaurant in east London founded by chefs Daniel Watkins and Andrew Clarke, makes its own za’atar-style spice mix, which is a brilliant way to use up surplus herbs and herb stalks.
Za’atar-style spice mix
I have never seen the fresh herb za’atar in the UK, but the spice mix of the same name is a super-versatile condiment, seasoning and marinade that can elevate all kinds of dishes. It’s often used to flavour flatbreads or to marinate meat and vegetables – I love it sprinkled over almost any simple meal, from a salad to a roast dinner or stew. This recipe, based on one from Daniel Watkins, is remarkably similar to the classic herb-and-spice mixture and very satisfying to make – just a small bunch of rescued herb stalks and/or surplus soft herbs will yield a decent little jar of this magical Levantine seasoning. It will keep for up to a year, too.
Makes About 15 tbsp
100g surplus herbs and/or herb stalks
25g sesame seeds
2½ tsp cumin seeds
2½ tsp coriander seeds
3 tsp dried thyme, marjoram or oregano, or a combination of all three
5 tsp sumac
3 tsp flaky sea salt
Blanch the herbs in boiling water for 15 seconds, then drain and transfer to a bowl of iced water. Drain again, then put in a clean tea towel and squeeze dry. Roughly chop the herbs then spread them out on a baking tray and leave in a warm spot to dry for a few days (or dry them in the residual heat of the oven after using it for another purpose). Once dry, grind to a coarse powder in a mortar, spice grinder or blender, then tip into a small bowl.
Toast the sesame seeds in a dry frying pan until they start to brown, then add to the herb bowl. In the same pan, toast the cumin and coriander seeds until they begin to pop and smell aromatic, then grind to a medium-fine powder and add to the herb bowl. Stir in the dried thyme, marjoram or oregano (or combination of all three), the sumac and the salt, then decant into a clean jar and seal. The mix will keep for up to a year.
