For more than a century, the Rockley pub has been a place for locals to gather, throw parties, weddings and wakes.
Now, the 182 residents of Rockley, a historic village surrounded by sheep grazing land in central west NSW, are preparing for the pub's next chapter.
Celebrity chef Matt Moran bought the 1870s pub last year, with plans for a fine-dining restaurant, beer garden, and accommodation.
Bathurst council unanimously approved Moran's development application on Wednesday night, with conditions to ensure heritage items are preserved, and that lighting and sound won't disrupt the quiet village.
Moran, who also owns Aria Restaurant in Sydney, runs a farm near Rockley with his father, raising lambs, cattle and pigs.
"It's not as if I've flown in from Sydney and bought a pub; it's been on the radar for a while," Mr Moran told local radio station 2BS last year.
"I love the farm and I like spending a lot of time out there. I thought if I'm going to spend more time out there as I get older, I may as well have something to do."
Ahead of the council meeting, NSW Deputy Premier and local Nationals MP Paul Toole expressed support for the proposal.
But not all villagers are happy over concerns locals could be excluded from their beloved watering hole.
"Should the pub be developed in a way that limits access to locals, perhaps by just being more expensive or by reducing affordable areas, it will impact the local community," one resident wrote in a letter to the council.
Another wrote: "Yes, there have been birthday parties and wakes in the past at the Rockley pub, a noisy two-up game on ANZAC Day, and live music after the local Rockley Rodeo, but the alterations listed in this application would accommodate much larger parties. Such events could create a lot of noise."
Project developer, Burns Planning and Development, said they are mindful the pub "plays an important part in the operation and social cohesiveness of the village".
Nick Tinning, a hotel broker, says sales of country pubs increased tenfold during the pandemic. Many buyers saw the charm of a country life, particularly Victorians "looking to run away" from lockdowns.
"It's still a good business, provided that your business model works, and it's a good lifestyle," Mr Tinning said.
He said pubs were at the centre of many country communities.
"All we want is our meeting place, a place where if I'm working on a farm and the only human interaction I get is at the pub once or twice a week to see other people.
"Other than that I'm talking to my sheep, or my dog."
