Along with being the epicentre of political power in the US, Washington DC offers so much to see: world-class museums, a diverse range of arts and culture and a thriving dining scene.
It is the home of the President, Congress, the Supreme Court and many more must-visits such as the Smithsonian museums, the iconic statues of the National Mall and Arlington.
The population of DC is close to 800,000 people, and the centre of the city feels compact and easy to get around.
Neighbourhoods such as Cardoza, Shaw, Adams Morgan and Georgetown are within walking distance from Downtown or a few stops away on the bus or subway.
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There is a palpable buzz about the place, it’s an exciting place to be, a warm and welcoming city.
This is especially true of the new waterfront development The Wharf, a vibrant neighbourhood full of restaurants and nightlife which is where I stayed for the duration of my trip.
My hotel Canopy The Wharf is a 10-minute walk from the National Mall – or you can take the free shuttle bus which runs every 15 minutes.
The Mall
At one end of The Mall is the instantly recognisable dome of the United States Capitol (with the Library of Congress and the Supreme Court tucked in behind it).
At the mid-way point is the towering Washington Monument seen from almost every point in the city. You can go to the summit and get four breath-taking views of the city: east, west, north and south.
On the way back down, the lift stops to reveal some of the 192 commemorative stones, mostly from other US states. I was thrilled to spot the most recent addition to the Monument – a plaque from Ireland honouring the 1916 Easter Rising which was added in 2019.
Ireland is only the 17th country with its own representation at the site.
Between the Washington Monument and the awesome Lincoln memorial at the other end of The Mall runs the majestic long reflecting pool.
And five minutes’ walk from the Monument, on the north side, is the home of the US president, the White House. It was built in 1792 by Irish architect James Hoban and has been the official residence of every president since John Adams in 1800.
You can get a White House tour (Irish citizens need to book through the Irish Embassy in Washington) and a tour of the US Capitol which is free (visitthecapitol.gov).
If you continue past the Lincoln Memorial, you can cross the Potomac River to visit Arlington Cemetery. There are more than 400,000 graves there, including JFK’s eternal flame. It’s the largest military cemetery in the US.
Nearby is the familiar outline of the Pentagon.
It’s worth revisiting this area at night, incidentally. I took the Monuments by Moonlight bus tour and enjoyed the illuminated splendour of Abraham Lincoln, the Korean Veterans Memorial, the Vietnam Veterans Memorial and the Jefferson Memorial.
Museum Mile
The National Mall is lined with the Museum Mile, DC’s acclaimed Smithsonian museums, most of which are free to enter. The Smithsonian consists of 19 museums and galleries and a zoo.
The ones I visited included the National Museum of Black History and Culture and I cannot recommend it highly enough. The deep black-brown building itself is stunning, but what’s inside is a well curated collection you must see. The three-level history section — on themes of slavery, segregation and the year 1968 — holds some of the oldest and most compelling material. The way the museum mixes everything up, you can’t select a comfortable version of history. There are fascinating culture and music galleries too. You could spend an entire day here and still not see everything.
I also visited the National Air & Space Museum and saw Neil Armstrong’s space suit and the world’s first aeroplane, the 1903 Wright Flyer. Also present is Evel Knievel’s stunt motorbike, the Harley XR 750 that jumped 14 Greyhound buses, and the actual Apollo 11 Command Module.
Closer to Washington Wharf you will find the International Spy Museum on L’Enfant Plaza, home to the world’s largest collection of spy artefacts, genuine and fictional. This vast museum’s hoard ranges from James Bond’s car to an Enigma machine and an immersive exhibit about communist east Berlin complete with Stasi office.
Georgetown and The Wharf
I spent half a day in Georgetown, Washington’s oldest neighbourhood. This charming low-rise and leafy enclave with cobbled streets and quaint old houses is awash with designer boutiques, gourmet coffee shops, homeware stores, art galleries - and foodie heaven restaurants such as the Blue Duck Tavern and Robert De Niro’s Nobu.
Back at my Wharf base there was a visionary example of city planning – a completely sound-proofed 5,000 capacity live music venue The Anthem that was built within an apartment complex.
I was lucky enough to attend the grand opening of Hell’s Kitchen, one of two Gordon Ramsay eateries within the waterfront complex, and I’d heartily recommend it for dinner.
You should also try lunch at Mexican restaurant Mi Vida and dinner at the bustling Mediterranean flavoured La Vie which has stunning views of the waterfront.
Other dining highlights
I’d also recommend the superb fusion restaurant Dolce Vita in the Logan Circle neighbourhood, a great spot for late night drinks and craft cocktails with an abundance of speakeasies.
And for brunch, visit Farmers Fishers Bakers (busy buffet in Washington Harbour) and Unconventional Diner (great comfort food).
My dining highlight was at the Michelin-starred Masseria, recently named the twelfth best Italian restaurant in the world. Chef Nick Stefanelli’s celebration of harmonious flavours and the finest Italian cooking is deeply satisfying. I indulged in the six-course tasting menu with wine pairings and it was utterly divine; one of the best meals I’ve ever experienced.
Would I go back to DC? Most definitely. I enjoyed my packed five-day trip but there was so much more to see and do that a return trip would be warranted.
How to get there
Aer Lingus operates two direct flights daily to and from Dublin to Washington Dulles Airport. Booking on aerlingus.com.
When to go
The best times to visit Washington DC are the autumn months and from March to May. This avoids the winter cold and peak crowds. August is very hot. I went in January and didn’t find it that cold.
Where to stay
I stayed at the Canopy The Wharf (part of the Canopy by Hilton brand). The hotel was everything you would expect in a lifestyle boutique hotel including extra comfortable rooms with lots of modern design elements, plenty of charging points, a fridge and a Nespresso machine.
The hotel’s rooftop bar, Whiskey Charley is worth a visit for the cocktails, craft beers and a fantastic view of the entire Wharf neighbourhood and the US Capital.
How to get around
It’s a compact city you can walk around but you’ll cover a lot more ground on two wheels — day and night tours are available with companies like unlimitedbiking.com.
Canopy The Wharf Hotel has a dozen bikes available on a first come, first served basis, incidentally. A helmet and a lock is included.
There is also reliable public transport such as Metrobus, Metrorail and DC Circulator and you can tap and pay with your watch or phone.
You can also use Uber and Lyft or take traditional cabs.
Top tip
An Uber to/from the airport to Washington Wharf will cost you $75 and the journey time for me from the airport was 45 minutes. On the way back to the airport, I took the Metrorail from L’Enfant Plaza (a few minutes’ walk from my hotel) and it cost $5 and took only 58 minutes.
For more information, visit Destination DC at washington.org
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