Cockburns of Leith was once one of the most well known wine merchants in the British Empire.
It served a host of notable clients including King George IV and famous authors Sir Walter Scott and Charles Dickens from bases in Edinburgh, London and even India. The specialist wine merchants were established in 1796 by brothers Robert and John Cockburn in order to take advantage of an upwardly mobile social class, following the enlightenment.
They have been well-known in the capital since their inception and remembered to this day through Cockburns Port. The wine producing firm was founded by Robert after serving as a soldier in Portugal during the Napoleonic Wars.
The business had a stores located across various spots in Leith for the best part of two centuries. This was before the company navigated troubled waters post-World War Two, as punters flocked to bars, hotels and restaurants for a libation.
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It fell into the hands of a variety of owners after getting into difficulty from the early 1970’. The Murray family had to rescue the firm after it entered administration in 2010.
Since its takeover, the business has experienced a revival, with booming sales online and now the opening of a store in the heart of the New Town on Frederick Street. The space promises ‘the very best of global wine and spirits’ and welcomes wine connoisseurs of all abilities to enjoy expert, guided tastings and purchase affordable, high quality wine.
To celebrate the return of Cockburns of Leith to the city centre, we popped in to see what was on offer and to be guided through some of their tasty yet accessible beverages.
We were greeted by Keith Murray, director of Cockburns of Leith as well as James Paulin, the store manager. They gave us a quick tour of the store which has a really fresh and crisp design with a beautiful display of red, white and rosé wines as well as a mixture of partner spirits and of course a selection of Port.
The wine merchant has been well and truly reinvigorated with a premises in Edinburgh’s New Town. James, who has over a decade of experience in the wine tasting game, showed us how to properly taste wine, by first sniffing the back of our hands - to neutralise - before sniffing the liquid.
He then showed us how to properly taste and spot the legs as well as how to get the oxygen into the wine when taking it from the glass. First up was the award-winning Provençal rosé Chateau Routas, which is grown on a family vineyard that neighbours that of Goerge Lucas and other Hollywood royalty.
James said: “The wine has a tatse of freshly cut watermelon with ripe peach aromas and floral notes that lead to a palate alive with wild strawberries and hints of mineral notes. It comes with a crisp acidity and refreshing finish.
"It comes from the Estate of Chateau Routas which is nestled between the old town of Aix-en Provence and the white sand beaches that line the Gulf de Saint Tropez. In 2005, Sir David Murray and his family took ownership of the vineyard and it has gone from strength to strength since.”
All of the wines being showcased were on the more affordable end of the price range, from £11.99 to around £23.99. This makes them perfect for a special dinner or even to pick up on the way home from a hard day's work.
Customers are able to request a tasting of wines before they buy them and have the added benefit of James being on site to guide them to the perfect wine within their budget - not commonly found in supermarket chains. Next up was the Cockburns of Leith Claret.
James said: “This wine harks back to the early days of Cockburns of Leith. Customers would not order a specific chateau but instead trust the merchant to have selected the best wine of the vintage.
“Thus the merchant was more important than the winery that made it. We continue the tradition by bottling a claret that we think offers outstanding value for money.
“A classically styled claret with plum and blackcurrant fruit, soft tannins and hints of vanilla and spice.”
The merchants have a wide range of exclusive wines that cannot be found elsewhere and they say that the main selling point for them is high quality. Their prices can range from just over a tenner for a bottle to just under a grand for a proper vintage that would go down a treat for a special birthday.
Those interested in buying a bottle of wine will soon be able to come in for group tasting sessions that are set to be introduced at the end of September. This will allow for potential clients to sample a variety of wines under the guided care of experts whilst enjoying a day out with friends or family.
Now last, but by no means least, we were offered a sample of the Pazo Pondal, Mina Vida, Rias Baixas 2021. This comes from a family owned winery from Galacia in Spain.
On this wine, James said: “This blend of Albarino and Treixadura shows a great aromatic intensity and complexity with floral aromas standing out. Packed with white fruit and citrus as well as some lychee, it has a crisp acidity and a mineral backbone.”
Customers can taste and buy specialist wine in store but are also able to benefit from free delivery in Edinburgh and the Lothians.
Director Keith Murray added “We are excited by this next chapter in the Cockburns of Leith story, building on a 200-year heritage of excellence and conviviality as we seek to supply the very best of global wine and spirits to our customers. While online sales continue to grow, and are an important part of the modern Cockburns of Leith business, we also believe in the power of retail.
“That is why we have decided to open our first bottle shop, which comes at an exciting time of rejuvenation for Edinburgh’s commercial core. Customers are keener than ever to experience the brands they purchase first hand – by seeing and tasting them in store or hearing the history for themselves.
“Be it the worker who wants to pick up a bottle on their way home from the office, someone who prefers to browse the labels and hold the bottle in their hands before they buy, or a newer wine drinker who needs a little guidance – the best way we can serve these customers is through a physical shop, offering warm, personal and expert service.”
You can visit the Cockburns of Leith store website by clicking here.
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