Last week, I was advocating for men to wear shorts whatever the occasion. This week, I intend to argue that budgie smugglers are back. If you’re wondering whether this column has devolved into an excuse for me to encourage men to wear as little as possible, the answer is: probably. But hear me out.
First, a disclaimer. The cardinal rule of dressing is not to wear anything that makes you feel uncomfortable, which perhaps rules out Speedos for 70% of British men. It’s a very different story in France, where swimming briefs are deemed a civic requirement, with swimming shorts banned in public pools. (Because they can be worn outside the pool, they are seen as unhygienic, with the potential to carry sand, dust and whatever unthinkable germs lurk on bus seats into the water.)
It follows that the British queasiness around swim briefs is the result of our own neuroticism rather than anything aesthetic. Still, attitudes are shifting. Asos reports a “significant year-on-year growth in sales of Speedos”, and the iconic swimwear brand enjoyed a 200% spike in sales last summer in Europe, the Middle East and Africa. Meanwhile, the UK-founded shopping platform Lyst says searches for “budgie smugglers” are up 89% year on year.
Several factors may have contributed to this. As men spend more time in the gym, they’re increasingly keen to flaunt their physiques. Additionally, the rise of the “reverse male gaze” – the theory that men dress for the admiration and validation of other men – is thought to have led to more daring swimwear choices.
The internet’s favourite “Menswear guy”, @dieworkwear, recently posited on X (formerly Twitter): “Slutty looks are super popular right now in menswear (short shorts, mesh shirts, low unbuttoned silk shirts, 1970s tailoring) but it is almost entirely about hetero guys trying to look sexy for other hetero guys.” Whereas, like facial hair and generational trauma, Speedos are perennially commonplace among gay men.
On the catwalk, British menswear designer Grace Wales Bonner’s spring/summer 25 show featured six pairs of minuscule red swim briefs. Then, in July, White Lotus star Theo James cemented the trend when he was papped wearing a tight white pair filming a Dolce & Gabbana ad in Capri.
Perhaps you’re thinking: “But I’m not Theo James shooting a Dolce & Gabbana ad in Capri.” True. But consider the celebrities who have successfully carried off a Speedo, from a sunburnt Ray Winstone in Sexy Beast to Mike Tindall on I’m a Celeb and 47-year-old Andrew Scott in the recent Ripley remake for Netflix.
In practical terms, they are less restrictive to swim in and eliminate the discomfort of sitting in wet trunks and the itchiness caused by the mesh linings of swim shorts (particularly when swimming in salt water). They also allow for cleaner tan lines.
Still unconvinced? Luxury swimwear brand Abtany offers the best of both worlds with matching swim briefs (pictured) and overshorts in subtle handpainted designs inspired by architecture and made using mostly recycled materials. If that feels like too much of an investment for the beach, wear briefs for swimming and sunbathing, and then slip into swim shorts to get to and from the lounger. This Nike pair are on sale, and could provide a pop of colour peeking out of contrasting shorts.
As a gateway swim brief, a neutral block colour is safer than a print. Then again, there’s so little material in a swim brief that it would be hard for a pattern to overwhelm. White or nude shades should be left to the most daring men (and avoided by pastier skins) and an elasticated waistband will be more forgiving than a drawstring. Finally, wearing swim briefs raises the delicate issue of manscaping one’s “sideburns”. But perhaps that’s another column.
Styling: Helen Seamons. Styling assistant: Sam Deaman. Grooming: Rose Angus at S Management using Aveda and Bobbi Brown. Model: Dominic at Milk Management. Swim briefs: Abtany. Reversible towel: Zara Home X Collagerie. Sunglasses: Ray-Ban
