Ask any editor at New York Fashion Week how they are feeling and I guarantee you'll receive some version of "tired, but hanging in there." The whirlwind of fashion month has only just begun and already we've been hit with an East Coast blizzard, a dizzying show schedule, and unhinged political headlines that make most of us want to toss our phones in the Hudson River. The vibes are very much weary chic, a sentiment that is also reflected in the makeup looks appearing on the runways this season. More specifically, the parade of models who have shown a distinct lack of concealer (or really any significant full-coverage makeup) which puts their dark circles on full display.
Eschewing a full face beat is nothing new in 2025. Barely-there color correction has been simmering since the dewy, glass skin craze of the 2010s. But the undereye area has long been a holdout, the singular section of the face to still demand a few swipes of carefully placed concealer. Whether you have a genetic predisposition to dark circles, had a few too many glasses of wine at dinner, or haven't been able to sleep more than six hours in a few months (or years), it seemed as if everyone was hell-bent on disguising them, even if the rest of the face was left relatively bare. But suddenly, it feels as if dark circles have become a type of armor, an indicator that we are too booked, busy, and fabulous to spend a few extra minutes tending to our undereyes. Or, that we are simply exhausted by the constant onslaught of socio-political turmoil. If the powers that be can keep behaving so poorly, why should we bother keeping up appearances?
Designers like Meruert Tolegen and Hillary Taymour of Collina Strada even went as far as to emphasize the darkness under the eyes—the latter's show was a part of an imagined "fempire," a society ruled by women, where femininity and queerness are a source of power. That certainly sounds like a welcome respite from the current political climate. Lead makeup artist Dick Page drew an ellipsis shape in green, gold, or silver around models' inner eyes and noses, using ILIA’s pending Stylus Shadow Stick, which, under the hot lights of the runway, emphasized the hollows and shadows of the eyes. The resulting effect was that these are women who are much more interested in reclaiming power and autonomy rather than appealing to society's outdated beauty standards. In other words, dark circles, but make them fashionable.
Of course, a handful of designers have taken the opposite approach, sending models down the runway in joyful, colorful makeup. (Luar's pastel blue eyeshadow was a standout.) But for the most part, the skin's natural and "flawed" coloring has been allowed to shine.
Personally, I've been a proponent of visible dark circles for years. They're a key component of that perfectly imperfect, never too done vibe that French women and your cool childless aunt have mastered. It radiates an aura of, "I feel confident and unbothered in my skin," a woman who bases her makeup choices not on anyone's approval but rather by her bandwidth, with a dash of sexy, devil-may-care attitude.
Although the world may feel like it's on fire—and that stress is potentially reflected on our faces—we will confront the day head on, unconcerned with hiding the reality of what's happening. Whether that's through a night out dancing until 3am or doomscrolling on X, today's modern woman has more important things to worry about than disguising how she feels with hastily-placed concealer.
