Back in 1988, a chance encounter between Hollywood superstar Robert de Niro and chef Nobu Matsuhisa would result in a gastronomical and luxury hotel empire that spans the globe, with more than 50 Nobu restaurants and 13 Nobu hotels worldwide – from the United States to the Philippines, Morocco, Greece, Spain, the United Kingdom and more.
The ensuing relationship between actor and chef was, and continues to be, like lightning in a bottle. Though De Niro naturally saw the potential for great success in Nobu San – who had developed his signature Peruvian-Japanese cooking style after opening his first restaurant in Lima in 1973 – the spectacular sushi empire that the two would go on to create cannot have been foreseen.
They met at Matsuhisa in Los Angeles, which was technically Nobu’s second restaurant. De Niro was immediately hooked on the wholly unique food and invited Matsuhisa to join him for a drink.
It took four years of trying, but De Niro eventually succeeded in convincing the chef to open Nobu in New York, where Black Cod Miso quickly came to be Nobu’s signature dish – a tender, buttery black cod fillet imbued with umami flavours like miso and elevated with a hint of sweetness thanks to the sake and mirin-infused glaze. Before long, their relationship as The Godfather and The Codfather duo was firmly cemented.
We caught up with the iconic Japanese chef and restaurateur at his Portman Square hotel to learn all about his favourite things. Let’s get cooking.
Do you have any guilty pleasures when it comes to food?
“As a chef, I have to taste everything, so it can be hard to control myself. When I’m working, I don’t really have a choice – I need to sample dishes, especially when our pastry chefs ask for feedback. But when I’m at home and I get hungry, I’ll indulge in something sweet, like afternoon tea with pastries. I also love boiled sweets.”
Is there any specific treat you love the most?
“I think it’s more about sugar in general. Dark chocolate, with 80-90% cacao, isn’t really a guilty pleasure because it’s not too sweet. But candies, cakes –those are guilty!”
When you’re at home, what are your kitchen essentials?
“Honestly, I don’t cook much at home – I have a private chef who prepares meals for me (my wife!) but when I host guests, I love making sushi. I even have a sushi counter at home, so when my family visits, I prepare sushi for them.”
Do you have a favourite sushi knife?
“I have a custom Nobu knife made by a specialist. Traditional sushi knives require a lot of maintenance, but my new one is more versatile –it can handle sushi, sashimi, meat, and vegetables while still being incredibly sharp and easy to maintain.”
What are your must-have tools when cooking?
“A good knife is essential, of course. I also need a proper cutting board and fresh ingredients – soy sauce, condiments, fish and vegetables. As long as I have those, I can create something great, even with limited ingredients.”
How do you source ingredients for Nobu Portman Square?
“We’re lucky to be in a city like London, where we have access to top-quality ingredients. The best ingredients aren’t always from faraway places –sometimes they’re just 10 miles outside the city. We work closely with suppliers who help us find the best seasonal ingredients.”
Do you have a favourite dish you’ve created, other than Black Cod?
“That’s a tough one! But one of my signature dishes is Yellow Tail Sashimi with Jalapeño.”
What’s something you’ve learned from working with Robert de Niro?
“He’s an amazing actor but doesn’t cook at all! We joke about it—I tell him, "I could act in a movie, but you’ll never cook!" He has a great sense of humour but also a serious business mindset. He looks at things from a different perspective, which has helped Nobu’s success.”
Does he have a favourite dish at Nobu?
“He enjoys almost everything –except oysters! He loves fish, sashimi, black cod and meats. But like everyone, he watches his diet. He’ll say he’s on a diet, but then we start eating, drinking sake or martinis, and before you know it, he can’t stop!”
Do you have a favourite drink?
“I have my own line of sake, tequila, and champagne. I enjoy pairing drinks with my meals—sometimes I’ll go for Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, or even Nobu Champagne. It depends on what I’m eating.”
What was your favourite meal growing up?
“My mother cooked everything for me, and I ate whatever she made. In Japan, a typical breakfast includes fresh fish, steamed rice, miso soup and pickles. Lunch was usually noodles like soba, and dinner could be sashimi or a hot pot. I never complained – everything was fresh. We didn’t have frozen food like today, so I never ate frozen pizza growing up!”
When did you know you wanted to be a chef?
“I was around 10 years old. My older brother took me to a sushi restaurant, which was very expensive at the time. I remember walking in, sitting at the counter, and watching the chef make sushi right in front of me. The first bite was life-changing – I knew then that I wanted to become a sushi chef.”
What’s the most important lesson you’ve learned as a sushi chef?
“The key is perseverance – never give up. Training is tough, and many people quit before they even try. Mistakes happen, but they’re learning experiences. If you make a mistake, don’t repeat it. Always keep an open mind, stay positive, and keep improving step by step.”
What do you love most about Nobu London Portman Square?
“The people. We have a fantastic team here, and they’re passionate about their work. I recently held a town hall with over 100 employees, and I could see how dedicated they are. That passion makes me happy and proud to be part of this team.”
Is there anywhere you’d love to open a Nobu location?
“We’ve opened restaurants across five continents, but we haven’t reached South America yet. I’d love to open one in Peru – it would be meaningful since Peru was the first country I moved to outside of Japan. Peruvian cuisine has become very popular worldwide, and I was lucky to introduce some of its influences early on. It would be a full-circle moment for me.”
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