I don't think I've ever been so curious about a new opening in Bristol than Pizzucci. Bosco Pizzeria has been drip-feeding information on its new pizza parlour for more than a year, with plans in place since the end of 2021 - and this week it finally opened.
The mystery behind Pizzucci on Gloucester Road is perhaps what was most intriguing, starting in October 2021 when Bosco, which has three sites, applied for the lease to take over a former tanning salon. At the time, Bosco boss Miles Johnson kept tight-lipped on the new project but said the idea had come to the team during lockdown.
In February 2022, Bosco announced the new concept would take inspiration from "the best pizza restaurants of New York" and while signage emerged, the restaurant remained unopened. After 12 months of radio silence, Pizzucci then confirmed the opening for March 2023, serving 11 and 16-inch pizzas, frozen cocktails, soft-serve ice cream and arancini.
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After a string of successful soft launches and having already started a delivery service, Bosco's new pizzeria was ready to open on Thursday night (March 16). Currently, the only way to reserve a table is through an app called Dojo, which puts diners into a virtual queue or you simply just walk in. The system seemed to work all too well as we were called to our table two minutes after ordering a pint at the neighbouring Gallimaufry pub, having prepared for a much longer wait.
Inside was like stepping into a buzzing New York dive bar - an intentional aesthetic choice, no doubt. Pizzucci is modelled on an archetypal Brooklyn pizza parlour, spread across two floors and lit almost entirely by custom-made neon signs, in keeping with that dingy, dive bar feel. The attention to detail didn't go unnoticed. The affable staff were uniformed in white t-shirts with Pizzucci's phone number emblazoned on the back and serving retro diner tables from a tiny open kitchen, all soundtracked to an eclectic playlist littered with hip hop, soul, funk and disco.
You can score a bottle of beer for £4 or a glass of wine for as little as £3.70. The frozen Aperol Spritz (£6.50) was slightly underwhelming, however, lacking any taste of alcohol, but good fun nonetheless. Snacks include Bosco's popular arancini in three flavours - funghi, diavolo and suppli - at £3 a piece. My arancino was well made but the mushroom filling was frugal, instead laden with cheese and a hint of truffle.
The pizza, available in two sizes, is made in the familiar Bosco style, served with three basic bases with a lengthy list of toppings to make it your own. The white pizza (£10.5/£21) came slathered in a rich, creamy white sauce topped with caramelised onion. The pepperoni (£12/£24) had a traditional marinara base that tasted like it had been simmering for hours. My only regret was not ordering one of their homemade sauces for the thick, doughy pizza crusts.
Dessert is not to be missed and believe me this is coming from someone who doesn't usually make it a priority. Bristol ice-cream expert Swoon has provided two soft serve flavours - mascarpone custard acted like an elevated Mr Whippy (£3.75 a pot). The bomboloni were fantastic - although one of three doughnuts was missing the luxurious dulce de leche filling - but amazing value at £6.
We could have been in and out in less than an hour if we'd so wished. Service is quick but you don't feel rushed. During the day, you can order by the slice and take advantage of the specials, including a slice and a soda for £9 and an 11-inch with a beer or soft drink for just £11 (weekdays 12-5pm).
In a bleak time for hospitality - and indeed in most sectors in general - this is the ultimate comfort food worth waiting for. Eating in near darkness accompanied by blaring hip hop won't be everyone's answer to a meal out, but for me, the whole experience was rather escapist. I left with a sense of exuberance, feeling very full and a pizza box full of leftovers under my arm.
The concept of Pizzucci is unique in Bristol, not quite a restaurant in the traditional sense, but not a fast food outlet either. The meal came to almost £57 for three courses, drinks and a tip and with all its quirks proves that a meal out can be entertaining, delicious and not leave a huge hole in your pocket.
5, The Promenade, Gloucester Rd, Bishopston, Bristol BS7 8AL. Open Sunday to Thursday (12pm-10pm) and Friday and Saturday (12pm-12am). https://pizzucci.co.uk/
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