Acne found me later in life.
After relatively spot-free teen years, I was unequipped to deal with the blemishes that plagued me in my early to mid-twenties. I tried everything – antibiotics, prescription creams and lathering my skin with all sorts of chemical-scented formulas – all in the hopes of avoiding the seemingly inevitable Roaccutane with side effects I was not willing to deal with.
Then I was introduced to the wonderful world of chemical exfoliants and one particular ingredient that became, to me, a miracle solution: salicylic acid.
Derived from willow bark, this ingredient is the most common type of BHA and is found ubiquitously in spot-fighting products
I reached out to Corina Mihalache, Expert Aesthetician and founder of Ace Skin Health Clinic to decode the blemish-busting ingredient.
What are salicylic acid serums?
“Salicylic acid serums are skincare products containing salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that exfoliates the skin by dissolving oil and debris in the pores”, she explains. “It is particularly effective in the treatment and control of acne, blackheads and oily skin”.
Mihalache continues, “Salicylic acid is unique among skin care ingredients because it is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deep into the pores where many skin problems originate. Its anti-inflammatory properties can also help reduce redness and irritation associated with breakouts. This makes it a versatile addition to a skincare routine that targets blemish-prone skin, especially when using a serum with an optimal concentration of 2 per cent”.
The aesthetician adds, “I often tell my patients that they should consider salicylic acid as the expert in decongesting their skin. Unlike water-based active ingredients, which work mainly on the surface, it can actually dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells and clear out congested pores. This makes it particularly effective in treating acne and congestion and preventing future breakouts”.
When to use salicylic acid serum in a routine?
A serum is typically the third step in your skincare routine. Mihalache says, “For optimal results, I recommend using salicylic acid serum as part of a comprehensive skincare routine. The key to success with salicylic acid isn't just about applying it - it's about applying it correctly. The best time to apply a salicylic acid serum is in the evening after cleansing and toning. This allows the product to penetrate effectively without being disturbed by heavier products.
How often should I use salicylic acid serum?
According to the expert, “The frequency depends on skin type and tolerance. For beginners or people with sensitive skin, start with two to three times a week. This will allow the skin to build tolerance while minimising any potential irritation. If your routine contains several active ingredients, use salicylic acid first to cleanse the pores, followed by other serums or treatments”.
She continues, “Gradually increase the frequency to daily use if the skin can tolerate this without irritation. Excessive use can lead to dryness or sensitivity, so it is important to monitor how the skin responds. Always follow with a hydrating serum or moisturiser and protect the skin with sunscreen during the day. It's not just about treating current skin concerns - it's about maintaining long-term skin health”.
But cautions that “Many people believe that if their skin feels tingly, the product has a stronger effect. This is not necessarily the case with salicylic acid. The most effective results are often achieved through consistent, moderate use rather than aggressive application. With consistent use of the salicylic acid serum over 8-12 weeks, remarkable improvements can be observed. The key is patience and perseverance. This is not an overnight solution, but a scientifically proven active ingredient that delivers sustainable results when used correctly”.
Can I use salicylic acid cleanser and niacinamide serum together?
“Yes, salicylic acid cleansers work great together with niacinamide serums, they can be used together and complement each other beautifully”, Mihalache reveals. “While salicylic acid removes oil and decongests pores, niacinamide helps to soothe and hydrate the skin, strengthen the skin barrier and regulate oil production. Using a niacinamide serum after a salicylic acid cleanser can counteract potential dryness or irritation, making this combination ideal for people with oily or acne-prone skin. It is this synergistic approach that often delivers the most impressive results”.
Shop the best salicylic acid serums here
Sunday Riley UFO Ultra-Clarifying Face Oil
From Good Genes to C.E.O, Sunday Riley already plays a starring role in our skincare routine, and when pesky blemishes just keep popping it up, we may find ourselves adding another product to the bathroom cabinet.
The Ultra-Clarifying Face Oil does what it says on the tin. It targets breakouts, acne, pigmentation and visible pores, all without including any nasties like parabens or sulphates in the formula. It’s fragrance-free and can even be used during pregnancy - a testament to its gentle nature.
When your skin has a mind of its own, UFO brings salicylic acid set against milk thistle, cucumber seed, chamomile and liquorice extract for injecting soothing elements to the equation. It declogs, while calming the skin and offers up antibacterial properties with tea tree and black cumin seed oil. The texture is incredibly lightweight, quick drying and kind to the complexion.
Buy now £68.00, Space NK
Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
Best for: Unclogging angry pores and battling breakouts over time
There is a reason why beauty editors everywhere don’t stop waxing lyrical about this serum from Paula’s Choice. Unlike exfoliators of time gone by, this is a leave-on product that you apply after you have cleansed your skin.
It is packed with blemish-fighting ingredients like salicylic acid but combines this with soothing and calming properties so doesn’t aggravate further irritations, and also targets the appearance of fine lines as an added bonus.
The multipurpose product has a lightweight and non-greasy texture and should be followed by an SPF of at least 30 when used during the day. In only a couple of weeks you will start to notice that blemishes become clearer and pores are minimised.
Spot type tested: Blackheads, hormonal acne and irritations
Results: Clearer skin and a preventative measure
Buy now £28.00, Paula’s Choice
Bioderma Sébium Serum for Adult Acne 30ml
Bioderma has earned a reputation for gentle skincare solutions. Gentle is not generally a term used to describe spot-fighting formulas but the French pharmacy label manages to achieve an effective serum that is not overly astringent and can be used every day.
Applied to freshly cleansed skin, the BHA-enriched product decongests the pores and encourages the healing of pesky acne scars that just won’t seem to heal.
Buy now £21.44, lookfantastic
La Roche-Posay Effaclar Serum for Blemish-Prone Skin 30ml
When you have sensitive skin, it feels like any blemish product that you apply causes nothing but redness, inflammation and flakiness to the point where you question whether it was even worth it. That’s where La Roche-Posay comes in.
The French supermarket label provide san effective solution on blemishes, blackheads and marks in a way that won’t cause irritation. This is achieved by balancing the actives of salicylic acid, LHA and glycolic with the brand’s signature soothing and hydrating thermal spring water and niacinamide to lock in that moisture to prevent further loss.
Buy now £30.00, Sephora
Medik8 Blemish SOS
This is a reactive product rather than a proactive one as it is designed to minimise the appearance of your breakout in just 24 hours. At the first sign of a spot appearing, you lather on Medik8’s Blemish SOS gel. With salicylic acid, niacinamide, dioic acid and of course, azelaic, it soothes, calms, and reduces redness with an antibacterial action.
Buy now £18.75, Amazon
SkinCeuticals Blemish + AGE Defense Serum
For problematic skin, call in the big guns in the form of science-backed label SkinCeuticals. While the Blemish + AGE Defense Serum comes at a high price point, this reflects the technology within and the heavily researched formula that includes chemical exfoliants salicylic and glycolic acid.
Layered in blemish-prone areas, the serum removes excess pore-clogging sebum, eliminates acne-causing bacteria and minimises the appearance of pigmentation. There is no greasy finish but instead, skin feels smooth and decongested.
Buy now £78.99, Face the Future
Glow Recipe Strawberry Smooth BHA+AHA Salicylic Serum
The Strawberry Smooth serum from K-beauty label Glow Recipe is a cult product for a reason. In order to achieve that coveted glass skin complexion - a trend that began in South Korea and has since gained global momentum - this formula is on hand to shift dull surface skin cells and leave you glowing from the outside-in.
This is achieved through a combination of BHA and AHA acids - the former of which is salicylic acid, while the latter is mandelic acid. It is fast acting and effective but fear not, there will be no downtime as thanks to hyaluronic acid, strawberry water, leaf extract, and enzymes, it hydrates at the same time. What’s more, it smells fruity, absorbs quickly and creates a smooth canvas for the makeup application that follows.
Buy now £28.50, Cult Beauty
Caudalie Vinopure Blemish Control Salicylic Serum 30ml
The luxury French label Caudalie brings a pampering twist to spot squashing with this serum that comes as part of its Blemish Control collection. The formula uses salicylic acid to declog the pores and niacinamide to make sure it doesn’t have an adverse reaction on the skin and improve uneven texture at the same time. From first use, you’ll notice the lovely aroma and it feels gentle on the skin too, minimising the appearance of enlarged pores and leaving a glowy finish.
Buy now £25.50, lookfantastic
The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution 30ml
In true The Ordinary fashion, this solution is minimal on the ingredient front, choosing instead to spotlight the BHA on its own for a targeted treatment.
It was created to fight congestion by removing dead skin cells and unclogging the pores, all with the intention of leaving skin clearer, smoother and brighter.
Word of warning, this is a potent formula and not made for those prone to sensitivities. Use sparingly at first to build up tolerance.
Buy now £5.18, Boots
AMELIORATE Transforming Clarity Facial Serum 30ml
You may already be familiar with AMELIORATE for its body lotion - one of the best on the market for dehydrated limbs. The brand is bringing its stellar reputation for moisture and setting it alongside blemish-busting ingredients to create this Clarity serum.
‘Transforming’ sets the bar high but it does a good job in living up to it with the ability to minimise the appearance of blocked pores, fight against spots, even out skin tone and control sebum production.
You have the LaB6 Skin Clearing Complex to thank for the above that contains a combination of brightening vitamin C, soothing niacinamide, willow bark extract (a gentle variant to salicylic acid) and reinoid, an antioxidant that also encourages cell turnover. Skin feels more hydrated, less red and blemishes are less frequent.
Buy now £14.00, lookfantastic
