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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Health
Ellie Davis

Best copper peptide serum: What they are and how they work

Peptides have, in the last few years, become one of the most talked about ingredients in the anti-ageing skincare space.

The collagen-stimulating short-string amino acids are found naturally in the skin but become less effective with age, and skincare containing them is often discussed in the same context as Botox and retinol, praised for their ability to repair, hydrate, firm and tighten.

More specifically, copper peptides have been gaining popularity in serum form as a potent treatment. The combination of the aforementioned peptides with copper enzymes is designed to work at the deeper layers of the skin tissue to plump the complexion and smooth out the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

We reached out to Emma Wedgwood, Advanced Nurse Practitioner, to find out more.

What are copper peptide serums, and what do they do?

“Copper peptide serums are skincare products formulated with copper peptides—small molecules of copper ions bonded to amino acids”, she explains. “These peptides support the skin’s natural healing and regeneration processes. They stimulate collagen and elastin production, helping improve skin firmness and elasticity and strengthening the skin barrier”.

Wedgwood continues, “Copper peptides act as powerful antioxidants, protecting the skin from environmental damage caused by pollution and UV exposure. They help reduce inflammation and support the skin’s repair mechanisms, making them especially beneficial for ageing or damaged skin”.

Do copper peptide serums work?

According to the expert, “Copper peptide serums can be highly effective, but their results often depend on your skin type, consistency of use, and the product’s formulation”.

She spotlights studies that reveal “copper peptides promote smoother, firmer skin, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and enhance skin elasticity over time”. But cautions, “They aren’t an overnight solution. They should be part of a regular skincare routine to see noticeable results, as consistent use over weeks or months is usually needed. The quality of the product and the concentration of copper peptides play a significant role in determining how effective the serum will be”.

How do you use copper peptide serums, and when should you apply them?

“Copper peptide serums are best applied to dry skin after cleansing and toning”, Wedgwood says. “You can use them in the morning, evening, or both, depending on your preference. Many people find they work best when applied at night, allowing the skin to fully benefit from their repair-boosting properties during its natural regeneration process. Simply apply a small amount to your face and neck and gently pat it until fully absorbed”.

When it comes to layering with the rest of your skincare routine, she notes “Copper peptides don’t pair well with strong acids (like AHAs or BHAs) or vitamin C in the same skincare routine, as these can reduce their effectiveness. To avoid this, alternate their use — apply copper peptides in the morning and vitamin C in the evening, for example. Always finish with a moisturiser to lock in hydration, and if using copper peptides during the day, apply SPF to protect your skin from sun damage”.

Shop the best copper peptide serums below

The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides 1% Serum

The Ordinary has reformulated this product to include copper peptides in the ingredient line-up. As with the case of the entirety of the brand’s collection, it offers a far more cost-friendly way to incorporate powerhouse solutions into your bathroom cabinet. The serum includes a concentration of pure copper peptides as is found in human plasma to boost collagen and anti-inflammatory responses. It also gives the formula a blue hue.

The copper peptides are placed alongside the original complex, which includes the label’s Matrixyl 3,000 peptide, to minimise the signs of ageing further and support the health of your complexion. The product is lightweight but can feel sticky on application so is best suited to makeup-free days or nighttime.

Buy now £28.90, Space NK

Biossance Squalane and Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum

While this is technically a serum and not a moisturiser, it contains both skin-loving squalane, Biossance’s signature hydrating ingredient, as well as peptides, a copper form that boosts elasticity and collagen production for smoother skin. Combined with hyaluronic acid, the winning cocktail is a tall glass of water for dehydrated complexions.

Buy now £54.00, Cult Beauty

Medik8 Copper PCA Peptides

Medik8 may be best known for its retinal-based products but there are other anti-ageing gems in the collection beyond the vitamin A derivative. This includes the Copper PCA Peptides formula that is brimming with antioxidants to combat the skin-stressing effect of free radicals. The potent combination was created to smooth out the skin with vitamin C added in for tolerability. It’s lightweight and is speedily absorbed.

The packaging is made up of a dual chamber, one of which contains the blue copper PCA, and the other, the white dimethylmethoxy chromanol. As you go to use, they are combined to maximise the efficacity of both. It is created with artificial fragrance, alcohol and parabens. Use morning (followed by SPF) and night.

Buy now £65.00, Medik8

Allies of Skin Copper Tripeptide & Ectoin Advanced Repair Serum

The Allies of Skin product range may come at a high price point but they are renowned for spotlighting advanced and high-performance ingredients. The brand has become a bellwether of the buzz components that transform the beauty zeitgeist - as shown in the Copper Tripeptide & Ectoin Advanced Repair Serum.

This formula was designed to support the skin’s natural healing process with ectoin selected for its shielding properties and copper tripeptides to stimulate collagen for elasticity. The result is plump, smooth skin with a lightweight consistency to slip into your skincare routine with ease.

Buy now £190.00, Space NK

Wildsmith Skin Active Repair Copper Peptide Serum

British beauty brand Wildsmith balances nature and science in its botanical-based, clinically proven range. The Active Repair Copper Peptide Serum should be applied post-cleansing and before moisturising to treat the complexion with reparative ingredients. It is made up of a retinol alternative bioactive plant oil, cacay, that is rich in vitamins and omegas.

This is set alongside bioactive copper peptides that tackle fine lines and firmness, as well as hyaluronic acid to plump and add much-needed moisture to the complexion.

Buy now £105.00, Wildsmith Skin

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