SAN JOSE, Calif. — When Will Jones hops on his favorite form of travel – a long-distance Amtrak train – it’s not for speed or convenience. In a world obsessed with hyperconnectivity, he spends days at a time confined to a massive metal tube that is often beset by delays, lacks WiFi, and is one of the 21st century’s slowest forms of motorized travel.
“When riding Amtrak I tell people just chill,” Jones said, as the Santa Ynez mountains passed by in the distance. “Because you will be exposed to America.”
Amtrak riders should take note of Jones’ leisurely approach to train riding in the United States. Its fleet of hulking diesel-powered locomotives are often slower than they were 85 years ago. On the Coast Starlight, an epic 1,377-mile journey from Seattle to Los Angeles, the Bay Area portion – connecting Oakland and San Jose to Los Angeles – takes over 12 hours. In 1938, the now-defunct Daylight train cruised down to Los Angeles in less than 10.
For the foreseeable future, California’s train riders are stuck with the lumbering connection. The state’s beleaguered high-speed rail project is decades behind schedule with hopes of eventually connecting San Francisco and Los Angeles through the Central Valley. And even as President Joe Biden, known for his love of Amtrak trains, funnels billions into passenger rail infrastructure, no major speed improvements are planned for the Coast Starlight – although the train’s dated snack bar menu was recently refreshed, but to mixed reviews.
Avid Coast Starlight riders say jumping on the $54 one-way trip from Oakland to LA is not about saving a few hours. It’s about finding a rare space where travelers from around the world come together and unplug from the hurried flow of everyday life.
“I don’t care much about speed,” said Nicolaos Zafiriou, a Greek filmmaker. On a weekday in July, Zafiriou went to bed in Oregon and woke in Sacramento. On a trip from Chicago to Seattle, he spent a night chit-chatting with a rock band manager and truck driver. “It’s so long that you don’t have to keep track of the time that passes.”
And the antiquated Coast Starlight, which has long been known for awe-inspiring views, is even generating buzz from a whole new generation of rail riders, who have been posting viral videos of the train’s vast route.
But why does California’s premier train connection take twice as long as driving?
Steve Roberts, president of RailPAC, a train advocacy organization, said the train’s slow speeds are tied to the nation’s 20th century love affair with cars. In the heyday of 1900s train travel, before automobiles and highways supplanted mass transit, private railway companies operated a vast network of luxurious passenger trains. That was when rail travel came with elaborate art-deco drinking taverns and wood-paneled coffee carts.
Last century on the Daylight, dubbed “The Most Beautiful Train in the World,” the tracks and technology were upgraded so trains could zoom around corners at higher speeds. “The train at some places along the coast could go 90 miles an hour,” said Roberts.
But once passengers started skipping rail for their steering wheels, the private railway companies downgraded their faster infrastructure because it was too expensive to maintain, Roberts said. In 2022, Coast Starlight’s top speed is 79 miles per hour, but that velocity is rarely reached.
“Basically, society’s decision was to build the interstates,” said Roberts. “And the railroads stayed static.”
While lackluster infrastructure means slower trains, Amtrak’s biggest affliction is rampant delays caused by the nation’s economic workhorse: freight trains.
For the Coast Starlight, only 54% of passengers arrived within 15 minutes of their scheduled time in 2021. The dismal performance stems from a long-standing and bitter competition between Amtrak and freight train operators, both of whom are forced to cohabitate on the nation’s rail network. While Amtrak is supposed to be entitled to priority on railways, riders are often forced to wait hours for passing freight trains. Last week, in one of the latest dustups, Amtrak announced mass cancellations of its long-distance trains, including the Coast Starlight, due to freight workers threatening a strike.
If you can brave the Russian roulette of delays, the Coast Starlight offers a trip through some of the state’s most historic scenery as it meanders south through rich agricultural land immortalized by John Steinbeck, then along an estuary north of the iconic Monterey coast with glimpses of otters and seals. The train, which retraces an old Spanish Mission road, heads inland passing Paso Robles and San Luis Obispo.
Now that it’s fall, the sun sets before 7 p.m., just as the train hits miles of ocean views south of Santa Barbara.
“I’m here just to see the views,” said Kalen Chang, a graduate student at UCLA, as he shifted between grading papers and window gazing. “It really feels like the time isn’t wasted.”
Tips for the slow train to LA
When traveling there are some tips gathered from this reporter’s 12-hour journey and other riders:
Make sure you book the right trip: Riders have mistakenly reserved a “mixed service” connection, which involves a train from Oakland to Bakersfield with a bus connection to Los Angeles. The route is quicker but far less scenic.
Head to the viewing car: After finding your reserved seat head to the viewing car, where expansive windows offer the best views and lively atmosphere. The car often fills up, especially during the later half of the Bay Area to Los Angeles route.
Snag a right-side seat: If you are heading south, the viewing car’s right side faces the ocean.
Be aware of food options: Since COVID-19, the train’s formal dining car is only available to passengers in business class or with a sleeper cabin. A snack bar with drinks, chips, and slim microwaveable options is available to all passengers. You won’t regret bringing your own meals for the 12-hour journey.
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