As we enter the “cold” season and that most magical time of year thoughts often turn to how best to celebrate the festivities. Thoughts that often turn to putting any good intentions such as getting in shape (at long last) on the back burner and heading out for a slap-up meal to end all slap-up meals to really test your calorie count.
And there’s no better way to indulge in your festive food fantasies than by heading down Sukhumvit Soi 18 and heading on up to the 4th Floor of the Rembrandt Hotel to enter the warm embrace of a genuine foodie’s heaven at da Vinci Italian Restaurant.
Despite being in the heart of the City of Angel’s striking skyline, with a backdrop of buildings seemingly CGI’d on as part of the scenery from the latest Marvel movie, walking into da Vinci is like walking into a local trattoria for a cold glass of vino and a plate of mama’s homemade pasta as you enjoy a bit of friendly banter with the wise old nonno sitting in the corner. The classic Italian ambiance, very recently renovated to feature stunning open air walls leading out to the hotel pool for a singular “covered al fresco” experience, is the complete antithesis of the teeming streets outside.
But one glance at the eclectically enticing Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and New Year’s Eve menus, featuring a whole host of edible excellence courtesy of Executive Chef Vittorio Bertini, will tell you that this is no ordinary dining destination.
For something simple yet satisfying to begin the fresh pizza bread is the perfect introduction to what lies ahead — supremely flaky and with just enough garlic to not be overpowering yet still please Allium aficionados everywhere. Then it’s on to Norwegian smoked salmon, a staple starter on many menus yet given the Da Vinci touch by being home-smoked in-house for 24-30 hours to truly bring out the fantastic flavor and texture perfectly complemented by the piquant taste of the accompanying capers.
Next it’s time for a spot of da Vinci (over) indulgence with pan-fried French or Romanian foie gras served with fresh pear compote. Forget anything you thought you knew about the finest foie gras you’ve ever tasted; such is the meltingly light and delicate taste of da Vinci’s offering when it’s gone you may be left wondering if it was ever there at all, apart from the memory of having just experienced something truly special.
Even though Chef Vittorio often sources his seafood ingredients from abroad sometimes it’s the Land of Smiles itself which provides the pick of the ocean’s crops, which is why the Jewel of the Andaman shines through in his Phuket lobster bisque scented with premium aged brandy. With a deep bowl packed full of the most succulent pieces of flesh enhanced by the slight bite of the brandy this originally Gallic great certainly benefits from the Da Vinci touch, a benefit which will undoubtedly be felt by anyone who indulges in this delightful dish.
It would be remiss to visit an Italian restaurant without sampling a plate of delicious pasta which is why da Vinci’s linguini blended with black truffle paste and truffle oil is one item that should certainly be at the top of anybody’s Italian cuisine bucket list. There’s a secret to preparing the perfect pasta and Chef Vittorio has certainly found it; coupled with the exquisite hint of truffles this previously rather standard dish transforms into the definitive “Is there any left?” moment of moreishness.
At this point in your divine dining experience if you’re a tad concerned that you’re not getting your “5 a Day” in then fret not as da Vinci’s potato gratin should appetizingly allay your concerns. Piercing your fork through the perfectly browned gratin to reveal the inviting slices of potato below is an exercise in pleasure itself while as an alternative Chef Vittorio’s own recipe ratatouille is so creatively consistent in its taste that any self-respecting carnivore might be tempted to turn vegetarian on the spot.
And now on to the main event, which might be difficult to call “main event” when taking into consideration the utter feast of fantastic fare on offer. It’s a bit of a cliché that a holiday season wouldn’t be complete without a turkey but one forkful of da Vinci’s prime Australian bird will have you thinking “Cliché be damned!” as you eagerly look forward to your next mouthful. Roasting the perfect turkey is a bit of an art form and in this respect da Vinci mirrors its famous namesake by producing a masterpiece of velvet-textured meat which the knife just glides through, partnered with homemade pork, chicken and chestnut stuffing which in all honesty is good enough to eat as a meal in itself alongside da Vinci’s own cranberry sauce.
Accompanying the turkey in a tantalizingly tasty tag team one mustn’t forget another great Australian export in the form of a whole leg of lamb chosen from one of the country’s most select producers, marinated in fresh rosemary and so soft and tender the meat just falls off the bone and onto your plate.
After all that you’d be forgiven if you considered you’d had enough which would mean missing out on da Vinci’s perfect ending to a perfect feast – Chef Vittorio’s chocolate fondant cake. Rich doesn’t really do justice to the gooey perfection of this decadent dessert and Chef’s smile of satisfaction at the looks of utter pleasure on his guests’ faces after just one mouthful is enough to tell you that when it comes to providing a holiday season treat to top them all da Vinci is simply “numero uno”.
The dishes above are but a small selection of the multitude of “ all you can eat” items on da Vinci’s Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and New Year’s Eve menus where for one price per person per day diners can indulge in the freshest, finest and most flavoursome of fare in the entire capital.
da Vinci. Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok. 19 Sukhumvit Soi 16. Tel. 02 261 7100 email restaurantreservations@rembrandtbkk.com
