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Manchester Evening News
Manchester Evening News
Travel
Rob Williams

A dome with a view: extraordinary five-star luxury and adventure in the wilds of North Yorkshire

On the final night of our stay at the Private Hill in North Yorkshire the skies darkened, the heavens opened and a wild wind whipped across the spectacular terrain.

Sheltered in the cosy accommodation the inclement weather delivered a gentle Proustian rush.

It was a reminder of the excitement of the camping trips of childhood, and a aide-memoire to the point of camping: to connect with the environment around you in a more direct way than you might if you were peering out of the window of a five-star hotel. It was a holiday AND an adventure .

For all the joys and jeopardy associated with camping - let's be honest though - there's also a lot of inconvenience and hassle. Grim toilet blocks, flimsy tents that are too hot in the morning and freezing cold at night, missing tent pegs.

Hence glamping was born: posh camping that protects you from the hassle but still delivers communion with nature - replete with nice towels and a spongy bed.

That view... (Rob Williams)

Too often though you could end up with the worst of both worlds. No real adventure, but still having to trudge across a soggy field to a toilet block in the dead of night for instance.

That's why the Private Hill isn't your average glamping experience. It's in a luxury category all of its own.

Finding the place is a simple task, despite its relative isolation - it is located in Acklam in North Yorkshire, a hop, skip and a jump from the town of Malton.

Malton is an interesting place in itself. On its knees a decade ago, deserted by tourists and over-shadowed by nearby York, just 18 miles away, it has undergone a remarkable renaissance.

Now considered the foodie capital of Yorkshire it hosts an astonishing range of eateries, from artisan delicatessens to next-level pub grub, fine dining and decent bars.

Inside the Defender Dome (Rob Williams)

It is, in short, exactly the sort of place a slightly jaded Manc culinary obsessive might find redemption from the never-ending turn-over of over-hyped city-centre new-openings. It's a place to rediscover good food done well.

Depending on the route you take to the Private Hill you might pass through Malton, but regardless you will almost certainly end up eating there.

Thrussendale Farm is easy to find with sat-nav, and depending on how you approach it you might even catch a glimpse of the Geodesic domes you're going to be staying in atop the eponymous hill as you approach. As you crunch onto the gravel of the road up to the domes the first thing you notice is the view.

Now, I'm not a poet but this view could make me one. There are only a thousand words for this review and I could use most of them describing what you see from the hill when you arrive. Put simply: it is extraordinary. There is some dispute about how far you can see from the hill - with estimates ranging between 60 and 100 miles - but either way it is spectacular.

On the day we arrive it's crisp and clear and breathtaking. York Minster is visible during daylight and at night the whole city of York is a beautiful golden glow looming large on the dark landscape.

So entrancing is the view you might lose yourself to such a degree that you forget to look behind you at the curious structures where you'll be staying.

The domes are just a little bit special as well.

There's something slightly Martian about them. You can quite imagine them housing a brave astronaut stranded after an abortive, perilous mission to the Red Planet.

Inside the Defender Dome (Rob Williams)

Suffice to say they are very strong, very unusual structures.

These particular domes, there are five on the site, were built in Poland and shipped out.

One of them is known as Jane's Dome - it's the fully licensed cafe and bar and it's there we get our welcome and check-in.

Inside the dome it's stylish and incredibly cosy with a wood burning stove lit and in full flow, absolutely essential on a day when the Yorkshire chill is taking no prisoners.

The welcome is as warm as the stove, we're greeted with happy smiling faces, a quite delicious warm apple drink and a lovely generous slice of chocolate cake. 

It's here the breakfast of poached eggs is served also - the best poached eggs in the world according to some guests.

"The best poached eggs in the world" (Rob Williams)

The sense of luxury and indulgence is unmistakable from the outset.

It's then we meet the owner and mastermind behind the whole project Roddy Hamilton. A charismatic and friendly former businessman, turned farmer, turned glamping entrepreneur his passion for the project is infectious.

He unravels what we're looking at telling a story of planning permissions, obstacles and innovation that would make quite the episode of Grand Designs. He also talks with enthusiasm about the need for small farmers to diversify in the current climate - what's happening at Thrussendale Farm is the evolution of an industry and it's a fascinating story in itself.

At this point we're shown to our dome. We stayed in the Defender dome a spacious structure with a huge bed, wood burning stove, toilet, shower and even a little kitchen with a microwave.

It's comfortable and warm. If you're able to get to grips with the fire it will probably make life easier, but if not Roddy is extremely obliging and happy to help every step of the way. It's surprisingly toasty given it's November and we're on the side of a large hill in Yorkshire.

One can imagine it being very romantic for couples, but we're with our two children and they love it as well. Now doubtless this would be a different experience during the summer. In the warmer months the hosts cater for barbecues outside the domes and I can imagine it would be lovely.

But we liked it in the Autumn just a much. Inside the dome, as well as the bed, the kitchen and the shower and toilet there are also Sonos operated speakers and very good Wifi thanks to the mast built behind the structures. That's the entertainment covered then. But honestly, the majority of the time I spent staring at the view with a a glass of something nice in hand.

It's a very peaceful place to be and immediately you feel yourself unwind. 

The fixtures and fittings inside the dome are special. It feels more redolent of a five-star hotel than anything else. Everything is clean, comfortable and pristine. The bed is delightfully comfortable.

True luxury is rarely just about the fixtures and fittings: it's about the service. And if there's one thing better than the domes, and the view, and the foodie paradise just down the road - it's the service at the Private Hill. It is next level.

Roddy is a marvel - nothing is too much trouble.

Want a lift into Malton and back for something to eat? No problem. Want some food cooked and brought to your dome from the cafe? No problem. Want a walk and a tour of the farm? Want your fire lighting? No problem. And it is all done with the charm and grace of a concierge at a very very good hotel - and at a fraction of that price.

Roddy is also brilliant with the kids. My difficult to impress five-year-old was immediately a fan and became more so when he was taken down to collect eggs from the hens in the farm Gator vehicle (a recent purchase Roddy made to ensure guests don't get snowed in - or out).

Oh, and if you want to travel to Malton by train from Manchester Roddy will pick you up at the station and drop you back.

In short, there's a kindness and attention to detail at this place that puts to shame most expensive hotels. The whole thing is a treat and an adventure - the best of camping without the nonsense.

A wild and windy night on the hill (Rob Williams)

Casually when discussing the domes during our arrival Roddy had mentioned that they are capable of withstanding winds of up to 150mph.

So when, on our final night - after a wonderful relaxing stay - things on the hill started to get blustery, we could just lie back and listen to the North Yorkshire gales doing their worst without having to worry.

At one with nature and immersed in luxury - this could really catch on. And there wasn't a tent peg in sight.

Rob Williams and his family stayed as a guest of the Private Hill at Thrussendale Farm in Acklam near Malton.

Prices are £150 per night for the Defender, Druid and Duchess domes and £195 a night for the Debussy Dome.

To book call on 01653-917288, email reservations at reservations@theprivatehill.co.uk or visit the website @ https://www.theprivatehill.co.uk/.

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