If you spend too much time doom scrolling on TikTok you may be under the false illusion that trends, or “cores” as they’ve been tediously rebranded, regenerate every couple of days. Fashion, in reality, isn’t actually that contrary. The idea of trends doing a full scale about turn each season is thankfully obsolete. There is undoubtedly something pleasing about a little wardrobe refresh, but I think we’re all grown up enough to realise that it’s more about tweaking what you already have and maybe popping in the odd new gem rather than a total overhaul.
In fact one of the biggest current style trends might just be the idea of fixing, adapting and making do. In 2023 SOJO the app which facilitates door-to-door alterations and repairs saw its bookings triple; The Seam, another clever on-demand tailoring and repair service saw its revenue grown by 300%, it is also now the official partner to Net-a-porter, Mr Porter and Matches. This coupled with the fact that our Vinted/eBay/Vestiaire compulsions are now so great that the government is eyeing up our resale earnings for tax, suggests that perhaps the obsession with what’s shiny and new might just be starting to wane. Or at least the understanding that most of the time you can find the “new” trends happily waiting for you in a deep Depop scroll.
With all that in mind, here are 11 style ideas to spruce up your 2024 look — the moods for the new season drift between chaotic styling where anything goes to scruffy prep, sleek 90s tinged minimalism and poshed-up classics. Find your comfort zone and stick with it.
Boxy tailoring
You’re likely going to be hearing a lot about the French label Carven (launching in March on Net-a-porter). After a bumpy few years, it’s found its feet again under the stewardship of Brit Louise Trotter, formerly creative director of Lacoste and Joseph. Her Paris show in October was a gentle masterclass in showing us exactly what we want to wear, featuring the kind of off-kilter classics you know you’ll treasure for years. A case in point, her boxy, mushroom-y hued tailoring. The blazer has been reborn of late as a thing to throw on with anything. Trotter showed exactly how to revamp yours for the new season, pairing hers with sheer skirts and knits in the same hue. A sheer skirt might be a reach on the tube in January, but do think about proportions, it's less about oversized everything together now, look for more of a balance. Giant top, sleek bottom, etc.
The caged shoe
Ugly, clumpy shoes are the fashion balm to an avalanche of overly bow-decked nauseatingly pretty sister-wife style we are quite bored of watching on Instagram. When in doubt, update with a shoe — there’s no easier way to shift your look slightly to the knowingly hyped. This year the gladiator will be a comfort to us all — do wear with a sock until it's warmer (so wrong, right, etc); and if you really want to treat yourself — Loewe’s hybrid caged Mary Jane Campo mule is pure pavement heaven.
A bolt from the blue
One thing I am always asked in a new season is what the “colour” is. You’ll find plenty of reds and pretty pastels knocking around, but for a punch of joy I’d pop for a delicious hit of cobalt blue. It was the choice of all from Burberry (in a very chic silk millefeuille layered military style jacket) to Roksanda’s elegant dresses to tailored pieces at Labrum. To dip in a toe, try M&S’s pure cashmere crew neck, it’s just the thing to play around with layering now over shirts and under coats, then will be chic on its own with jeans come spring.
The Grandpa jacket
The wrong coat theory has been making inwards into the fashion vernacular. It plays into the slightly chaotic styling which has taken root, not least because of Prada’s divine influencer over us all. There, crumpled wax coats were laden over fringed party slips and boxy country-style Grandpa donkey jackets were paired with pencil skirts and pointy courts. Swedish brand Filippa K has a rather good take on the look, or feel free to go very classic with an actual Barbour — the Kelsall waxed parka (£289, barbour.com, or if you’re quick and lucky you might just snag one of its Ganni collaboration numbers which are very good — there are a few left) or Carharrt duck jacket (£152.99, carhartt.com). You want to err on the hefty oversized style so do trawl the men’s department too. Wear, obviously, with anything but country casuals.
A new silver mood
I understand that most people are either gold or silver and don’t switch sides lightly. But, gold’s dominance — certainly in terms of jewellery is on the wane, or at least, silver is very much back on the agenda again. Which is great news for anyone who already decks themselves in it, or who went big on molten glitz last month. For the rest of us, why not dip in with a small accessory to whet your appetite. Cos has some rather good chunky earrings as well as a cross body bag which will add a new year shine to even the bleakest of days.
A spot of leopard
Eagle eyed Phoebe Philo-fans will have noted a thrilling addition to her latest drop — a rather tempting splodgy calf hair leopard heel. Ergo, watch out for furry leopard print popping up everywhere. Helpfully for those without £990, Sézane has a rather sweet pair of pumps in a not too dissimilar vibe.
The slinky cargo pant
Who knew a cargo trouser could be sexy? Me neither, but Anthony Vaccarello certainly made the case at his Saint Laurent show, a fabulous homage to the house’s sleek Seventies safari collections. The satin cargo trouser paired with a slightly sheer vest set the mood. Zara is your go to here, it’s got plenty of options but the oversized pair with prominent silver-zipped edged pockets are ideal.
Scruffy prep
If you were the type to fall into the classroom bag askew, tie half done, shirt half tucked and skirt hiked to your tight garter then merely channel yourself circa year 9 and you’re bang on trend. Polo shirts — ideally in a lightweight knit — are going nowhere. The hectic prep-school look — christened “sleaze academia” by the trend hunters at Depop bless them — is yours for the taking. Pleated skirts and kilts (Brit brand Le Kilt cannot be bettered here), knee high socks (yes, really) geeky half tortoiseshell glasses and mussed up hair are the look you’re going for.
The luxe bomber
The triumvirate of casual coats shifts from leather to denim to bomber. This season, thanks be to JW Anderson, the bomber — shiny, loose fitted with extravagant feather detail — takes its turn on our backs. For a non-feathered take, see The Frankie Shop, which has its Astra style in myriad colours from purple to a bright green and this rather pleasant camel hued one. Love.
The horseshoe jean and a white shirt
A baggy loose blue jean is going nowhere. If you are the type to want to try the latest up to the minute denim shape, then thanks be to Alaïa, the horseshoe or barrel is where we are. Like any denim shape, the proof is in the wearer — ie they will either suit your legs, or not. You decide. Citizens of Humanity has a pair which come recommended, Frame do a high waist style which are good, too. For a cheaper pair, try Cos (tapered arch, £69, cos.com) and Whistles (which has a slightly more doable version, £95, whistles.com). The white shirt — from beach to business — is going to be this year’s hero piece. Wear open over a top, wear tucked in neatly, or half tucked in messily, it’s up to you. But it already feels like you’ll be wondering what you ever wore before you picked one up (if you haven’t already). WNU do a great cotton classic for £95 (withnothingunderneath.com) while I love Mother of Pearl’s Dakota with its billowing sleeve.
The luxe trench coat
Not to mention stealth wealth, because I think we’ve all heard quite enough about that, but those luxe looking classics are prevalent for one very good reason: they always look good and they sell. Gen Z might lust after weird shoes and brazen coloured hoodies, but in reality is there anything better than a chic bit of outerwear? Trench coats with added pizzazz — see Burberry and JW Anderson for two — were a feature of the spring summer show season. Get involved with this rather delicious patent trench from Jigsaw. Yes it’s white (head to toe white dressing also A Thing btw) but it’s also wipe clean. You’re welcome.
