Let’s not jinx it, but we seem to have emerged somewhat unscathed from our fifth winter of spring 2024. So may I present this season’s most serviceable new crop of dresses — ones which should work just as well for the office as a party and even the beach, with a little accessory elevation. There has been much recent fashion chat of trousers trouncing wardrobes full of frocks. But I am here to reassure; while, yes, separates and suiting are riding their own wave, those of us who find the thought of a belted pair of trousers mildly horrifying are being fully catered to. Versatility is key for any hard-working wardrobe and dresses are a prime piece to get as much wear out as possible. If you can’t think of at least three ways to wear something and five things to wear it to, do not add to basket.
Bold florals
The much-touted death of the floral dress is like most clickbait: only a trifling diversion at best. Dame Anna Wintour’s Monday night party in New York was a floratopia of garden-inspired looks, while Net-a-porter reports a 127 per cent increase in searches for floral dresses in the past three months. There are still piles of shirred, ditsy printed floral dresses in the shops, and likely in your wardrobe. If you’re looking for an update, may I point you towards the bold floral. More elaborate, more powerful and a lot less simpering than the ones which have dominated the last few summers.
The Sister Jane mini is great and DÔEN also has a flirty mini floral shift (£245, Net-a-porter.com) — the short length feels a lot less mumfluencer-y. Meanwhile, & Other Stories’ ruffled number is giving most noticeable guest. I like the idea of making the look really punchy — hard-edged accessories, a hefty hiking sandal or gladiator instead of a white trainer (please). Think power player rather than Trad Wife if you’re unsure. More Bond Street than barn dance, etc.
The cool knit
Knitted and crochet dresses are rising up the trend ranks — and perfect for leaning into more of a streamlined silhouette if flounce isn’t your thing. At Net-a-porter, crochet knit searches have (ric)racked up 33 per cent, while John Lewis reports a 27.5 per cent increase in sales in the last week. Its take in a neutral hue makes it a super versatile piece.
I love the idea of wearing it over trousers for work and then by itself when warmer (Crochet knit dress, £65, johnlewis.com). Sezane’s Reneka dress (£190, sezane.com) comes in ivory with a pretty floral stripe and has more of a romantic edge; Mother of Pearl’s Jules maxi comes with a cool tasselled edge (£350, motherofpearl.co.uk); while Jigsaw’s knitted Ikat dress with a flourish of red crochet on the hem is seriously cool. Ideal for work with a black blazer, and sexy in the evening on holiday.
All-day denim
I adore denim dresses and am thrilled they’re having a hot minute (ideally more). Aligne — the burgeoning independent brand which is very much worth your time — has made the category something of a speciality (all come with pockets, too). I’ve lived in its easy Gabriella midi style, which now comes in short and sleeveless iterations.
I’m also into its Cora mini, which you could easily wear with a trouser or jeans as a tunic when colder, and Rosa pinstripe pinafore style, too (£125, aligne.co). If you want more structure, Ganni’s chic button-through has a cool edge to it. Slip-dress fans will be into Hush’s Saskia maxi (£99, hush.co.uk), which would be sweet over a T-shirt for full Nineties rehash.
The new boho
Hold onto your Sienna Miller moodboard, thanks to Chemena Kamali, Chloé’s sparky new creative director, floaty, balloon sleeved, Seventies-nostalgia-adjacent full on boho is back. For next season, Net-a-Porter has bought 20 of its runway looks, the majority dresses (take that, slick suiting). To get the look before then, and for far less eye-watering prices, take a look at Faune. It’s a nightwear label that’s far too good for bed (bear with me). Its beautiful pieces inspired by vintage French and English Victorian nighties are intended for all occasions. I wore its Camelia style everywhere from the beach to a super-hot September Paris Fashion Week last year, and have been desperate to get back into it.
Also see Loeffler Randall’s Jo cream puff sleeve dress (about £300, loefflerrandall.com) and & Other Stories which has this rather fabulous extreme ruffle flouncer. For real fabric accuracy, Me+Em is having success with cheesecloth — I love the giant daisy print.
The SBD (summer black dress)
Black for summer is the underestimated style flex that often gets missed off jazzy magazine spreads full of brash, bright coloured options. Ahem. Some of us are more than thrilled to melt into the scenery rather than look like a Chelsea Flower Show exhibit. I would look out for interesting details to elevate beyond the boring — see Whistles asymmetric-hem one here, while DÔEN’s hugely popular Ischia style leans into the boho-trend with a light touch.
There are endless iterations of tank dresses around too, which are an easy weekend win with a denim or chore jacket (Norma Kamali is a specialist here). If you want something slightly less clinging, Albaray has a great linen drop waist style (£99, albaray.co.uk).
Super shirts
For instant polish, a shirt dress gets you a long way. Warning: you may need to iron. Cefinn’s utility-ish linen Lyra dress, which comes in navy, khaki and cream, is one of those great serviceable pieces that will give you endless wears (Lyra linen maxi shirt dress, £375, cefinn.com).
While for those who like lean and louche, Arket has come up with an excellent, oversized maxi shirt dress — in a pretty pink and blue pinstripe —which I think you could put on now and not take off until October. See also Toteme’s black and white striped tunic (£530, toteme-studio.com); or for something altogether jollier, Alemais’s zinging yellow floral take is heaven. Two trends in one? Bingo.
