My new favorite cocktail has no name.
I discovered it a few months ago while in Cognac, France—where I was frequently served a drink that was essentially one part V.S. (Very Special) or V.S.O.P (Very Superior Old Pale) Cognac, three parts ginger ale, a whole lot of ice, and a citrus garnish.
Practically every meal was preceded by it. But it was served all night long—all afternoon, too, if you wanted it. At first it almost felt heretical to drink it. After all, I had always consumed Cognac neat and as a devoted Scotch drinker, mixing a prized aged spirit seemed wrong. Then I remembered that the recipes for many classic American cocktails were originally made with Cognac—including the mint julep and the Sazerac. (At least before the phylloxera epidemic of the late 1800s struck.)
So I drank it. And it was delicious—a cross between a refreshing Pimm’s Cup and very light Dark & Stormy. I ended up coming back for more. (Admittedly, the fact that I was surrounded by chateaux, fantastically landscaped grounds, and exquisite vineyards made the whole experience even more pleasurable.)
Turns out, this Cognac cocktail is an integral part of life in this corner of the world—the way an Aperol Spritz is essential drinking when visiting Italy. “It’s all about sharing moments with people, it’s about having fun, it’s a small part of France in a glass,” explains Baptiste Loiseau, Rémy Martin’s cellar master. “So the moment does not really matter, it can be before or after dinner, as long as you have pleasure sharing it with people you care for. Moreover, in the last few years, some new brands of premium mixers have emerged. This makes this simple concoction from the 19th century, an always perfect match today.”
The simplicity of it was key for me. The only real variable was whether you preferred V.S. or V.S.O.P. with the ginger ale. (Don’t even think about using an X.O., which is aged longer.) Hennessy’s recipe calls for V.S. but many Cognac houses, such as Martell and Rémy Martin, prefer using V.S.O.P.
“V.S.O.P is versatile, elegant, and iconic. With its heritage dating back to 1927, our V.S.O.P is like a journey back to the roaring twenties with its French art de vivre,” Loiseau says. “I like this cocktail because it’s the way we drink it in Cognac—with ginger ale or a very good lemonade.”
The question for me was: How would it travel when I left region? When I got to Paris, I dropped by the legendary Harry’s New York Bar and asked the bartender on duty (who made it perfectly) if he knew what this cocktail was called. I got a shrug. “It’s very popular here and I think even in London,” he said. “But I don’t think there’s a name for it.”
Back in New York and then later in Hong Kong and Geneva, I attempted to order it several times—in vain. I had asked for a “Cognac and ginger with lots of ice.” I got a look of profound confusion—and skepticism—every time. It was obvious that bartenders outside of France had never heard of it. At one point, I was handed V.S.O.P in a snifter, a highball glass with ice, and a bottle of Fever-Tree ginger ale. I had to make it myself.
Now, I can live with a cocktail that has no name—nobody minds when they order a gin and tonic or vodka tonic. Although I would like to see this drink get something catchy—like, say, a “C&G.” But having a name is no good if no one knows how to make it. So until American bartenders and Cognac drinkers catch on, here’s a foolproof recipe:
HENNESSY GINGER
“Some may consider this an afternoon or pre-dinner cocktail, as it refreshes the palate and the ginger helps start the digestive process before a meal. But really, it can be enjoyed any time. And because Hennessy V.S is aged in new oak (while the V.S.O.P is aged in a combination of new and seasoned oak), it has more of a bite on the front palate, which we feel makes it more attune to the bite from the ginger. In its most simple form, V.S works very nicely in this cocktail. To drink Cognac with a simple mixer is a very traditional method of consumption, dating back to the early 17th century—timed with the birth of the French spirit itself. During this time, Cognac was often mixed with water to reduce the proof, making it easier to drink (which watered it down after double distillation to mirror the wine it was made from). This classic libation, of course, has changed over time with the use of an evolving style of mixers: first, sparkling water. Later, tonic water (the English traditionally have consumed more Cognac than the French, helping to further shape this drink’s origins). And finally, ginger ale.” —Jordan Bushell, head of mixology at Hennessy
Ingredients:
1.5 parts Hennessy V.S
3.5 parts ginger ale
Directions: Pour Hennessy into highball glass. Add cubed ice (fill the glass). Top with ginger ale. Garnish with a lime wedge or fresh slices of ginger.
