Natalie Sytner is the creative brains behind Bettina Ceramica. Forever drawn to the superlative craftsmanship and ceramic designs of her mother's native Liguria, she launched the brand to create a contemporary line of homewares - in partnership with generations-old manufacturers back in Italy - and named the brand in homage to the woman who inspired it all. With a strong connection to Italy’s most storied towns and villages, a stopover in Milan doesn’t have to be an idle layover - rather an opportunity to soak in some of the more esoteric spots. Here’s her little black book:
Where to stay
A small six bedroom boutique new classical townhouse turned guesthouse, it still has a concierge to help with bookings and so it has that hotel ‘feel’. The interior is a haven of light, colour, materials, textures, antiques and art. Simple and chic. Via Montenapoleone, La Scala Theatre and the Duomo are all within walking distance.
If you’re in the mood to splurge, this is the newest hotel in the Ferragamo family, found in the middle of the 'Fashion District. The hotel is a trulyhistoric building, with a beautiful palatial courtyard (Piazza del Quadrilatero) that dates back to the 16th century. It has recently been renovated and restored by architect Michele de Lucchi, you can expect retro art-deco inspired interiors - all the rooms feature Italian walnut wood, rattan paneling and a theme of red or green. Somehow you feel as though you're in the home of a chic Milanese family in the 50's, there is such a warm and inviting atmosphere and and an incredible library to retreat to.
Where to shop
I love the Nilufar for its brilliantly eclectic curation of pieces and objects, with those from familiar masters as well as new contemporary talents - so you always discover something new. You can find it in the charming pedestrian lane of Via della Spiga. Now there is also a second exhibitionspace, inspired by the La Scala opera house, so there is even more to explore and discover.
Il Mercatone Dell’Antiquariato sul Naviglio Grande
If you’re in Milan on the last Sunday of the month, you shouldn't miss the big antiques market that happens monthly by the picturesque Navigli canals. There are over 300 stalls that line the waterways with treasure troves of vintage clothes, home decor, books, bags and jewellery.
Where to eat and drink
One of the oldest restaurants in Milan, it's only ever full of locals (always a good sign). Don’t miss the ultimate risotto alla Milanese followed by their famous zabaglione.
A simple, serene and minimalist spot tucked away in the back of a small arcade, where I have had the very best sashimi. Book ahead to avoid the queues, it's a great spot for Sunday lunch!
A firm favourite of Milan’s fashion crowd since its opening in 1936, it is the most wonderful spot to visit all day, from breakfast time (for a famous Lombardo sbrisolona or budino di riso!) up until its lively aperitivo hour. It’s like going back In time!
What to see
Despite its city-centre location a stones throw from the Duomo, the grand residence is totally immersed in the most beautifully ornate garden and Milan’s first private swimming pool and tennis court. It’s a luxurious example of Italian architecture from 1935 and was once home tothe prestigious Necchi Campiglio family. Now it serves as a captivating museum, documenting the lives of the family who once lived there. The design is exquisite - stunning marble bathrooms, walnut floors and stucco ceiling designs in each room. Plus, of course, art from the likes of Modigliani, Picasso, Magritte, Miro, Morandi, Canaletto and more. Fun fact! The villa played a central role in the 2009 tragic love story, IoSono Amore (I am Love), directed by Luca Guadagnino and starring Tilda Swinton.
An art and culture museum housed in the restored Ansaldo factory - the museum’s sleek and modern design is a work of art in itself! Theexhibition area on the first floor is arranged around the agora, a large central covered square, and hosts the permanent collection, focus rooms and large temporary exhibitions. It's just 25 mins on the metro from Duomo and well worth a visit.
