Try hard
Tired of polo shirts? Look to the Rugby World Cup for a wardrobe update in the form of a classic shirt: Wales Bonner and Burberry are already on the whistle. Also see Drop Out Sports, specialising in heavyweight cotton rugby shirts made in England.
Future proof
Louis Vuitton 2054 is a new line by menswear artistic director and arbiter of cool Virgil Abloh that imagines the brand in the year 2054, 200 years after its inception. Expect 14 performance-inspired pieces designed with transformable quirks in techy, water-repellent fabrics (clearly, Abloh’s crystal ball foresees rain). And for all of it to sell out instantly.
That Seventies show
How to look au courant? Rewind to 1975. Once Upon A Time in Hollywood flares, corduroy and silk shirts permeated the men’s shows, both on the catwalk (Celine, Gucci, Michael Kors) and on the bros sitting front row. Among them was Another Man’s editor-in-chief, Ben Cobb, much photographed for his Robert Redford uniform of half buttoned shirts, snappy suits and Cuban heels. Why the Seventies? ‘It’s the ultimate silhouette, a perfect mix of precision and excess,’ Cobb says, though clearly the line between right and very wrong is worryingly thin. ‘Think Yves Saint Laurent, not Tony Manero,’ he advises. ‘It’s all about the fit: trousers that are super tight around the hips and sweep away at the bottom. Jackets that cinch at the waist with generous lapels.’ Dig it? Here are Cobb’s new season picks.
Rose tinted
Pink: do you dare? The Pepto Bismol, decade-defining shade has finally crept into menswear, on blazers at Paul Smith, puffer jackets at Givenchy, loose slacks at MSGM and almost everything at cult Insta-brand Nanushka’s first foray into menswear.
Army surplus
Functional coats are this winter’s top trump. If yours looks like it would withstand a snowstorm on Helvellyn, then you’re on the right track. Rag & Bone’s Military Smock coat, in collaboration with UK special forces designer ArkAir, is made from durable nylon, and will also fly in the city thanks to its cool silhouette.
Bookmark this
A men’s online shop with a difference, Bombinate brings together European ‘workshop’ brands that focus on quality and craftsmanship, such as Uniform Standard and Private White VC. New to the mix is an excellent edit of bachelor pad-ready homeware brands. (bombinate.com)
Show man
The largest-ever exhibition of menswear to be held in the UK, Westminster University’s Invisible Men shines a light on functional garments that don’t usually make it to fashion’s hall of fame. See pieces from the Army and Post Office, plus 1990s Alexander McQueen and contemporary designers Craig Green and Palace. Free. From 25 Oct. (westminster.ac.uk)
Knit wit
Swap your thinning crewneck for knitwear with a little more cuddle: Isabel Marant’s shaggy cable-knit sweater made from loosely pulled Irish wool, for example, or Acne Studio’s cosy thick weave jumper in Parma Violet purple.
Go to waist
Two words that may change your life (or at least your nine-to-five): drawstring trousers. No longer just for Sunday sweatpants, forgiving waistbands have now been applied to office appropriate chinos and smart woollen trews. The best bit? No one needs to know.
Snow down
Lumbersexual? We’ve got news that’ll make you hot under your checked flannel collar. Snow Peak, the Japanese outdoor set’s go-to brand, is opening in London and its range of gear is sublime. Think sleek tents, nylon taffeta sleeping bags and steel coffee drips, alongside functional garb such as temperature regulating fleeces and insulated pullovers.
Opens 25 Oct. 16A Regent Street, SW1
Shop talk
If you don’t visit The Row’s new store for its minimalist tailoring and world-class (rinse the trust fund) fabrics, then go for the art, which includes a James Turrell installation and sculptures by John Chamberlain and Isamu Noguchi.
Bode well
Hot on the heels of Grace Wales Bonner and Martine Rose, the latest name to know in menswear is another woman: Emily Bode. The New York designer has captured the imagination of the industry with her workwear staples cut from repurposed material, such as Victorian quilts and grain sacks. The result is fisherman jackets made of vintage fabric from Ivory Coast and Khadi napkin Cuban shirts that feel like collector items. Find the origin of each piece sewn into its label.
Finishing touch
Autumn/winter’s biggest accessory update? Scarves: models walked the catwalks veritably swaddled in the things. Look for Harry Potter-style stripes and loose-weave knits, and don’t bother worrying about your outfit underneath.
