Known to locals as Ingmar Bergman Island (the director famously lived and shot some of his most memorable films here), its rustic, windswept terrain makes for a calming retreat from the mainland.
FARO
SEE: THE WILD BEAUTY OF FARO
It’s nature that attracts people to Fårö. Time goes slowly and it’s easy to forget everything else when you’re surrounded by the island’s long, sandy beaches, cliffs and pebbled walking paths — all the wilderness and a spartan lifestyle. My must-visit beaches include Norsta Auren, Ekeviken, Helgumannens Fiskeläger and the Rauks. Just don’t forget to pack a picnic!
SLEEP: A TRADITIONAL SWEDISH CHALK-STONE HOUSE
For precisely two months a year, from mid-June to mid-August the island swells with visitors. For the other months, there are more sheep than local people. I’ve been coming to Faro since I was a baby: the large stone house we lived in has no electricity, running water or outhouse. Thankfully, some things have changed (most houses have their own electrical supply) but its still common to pump your own water and use one of the two public showers on the island for your daily ablutions. To get the authentic experience, book one of the traditional chalk-stone houses common for the region on Airbnb.
Another useful option is booking via Stora Gåsemora Gård. Here you can choose between modern apartments, rent a traditional Fårö house or stay at an old mill. All its locations are self-catered and boast views over the surrounding Baltic Sea.
Fårö Stora Gåsemora 4200, Gotland 624 67 (+46 498 22 37 26; gasemora.se)
SEE: INGMAR BERGMAN CENTER
The cultural elite from Stockholm began to flock to Fårö in the early 1970s, drawn perhaps by Sweden’s most feted director, Ingmar Bergman, who rarely left and was later buried here (hardcore fans can visit his grave in Fårö Kyrka [church]). His presence is still strong and if you’re a Bergman enthusiast it’s fun to take a guided bicycle tour to see his houses, private cinema and the many locations that provided a backdrop to so many of his films. The island is also home a centre dedicated to his creative output and also hosts brilliant workshops for children and young people. (bergmancenter.se)
SHOP: FARM TO TABLE
There are plenty of places to buy fresh, organic produce directly from local farmers. Keep an eye out for handwritten signs studded around the island directing you to the farms specialty (ranging from asparagus and strawberries to heartier potatoes, eggs and meat). Next to the main church in Faro, a local farmer has commandeered a cellar in a villa, with rainbow fruit and veg on display and payment taken in the form of an honesty box. Fårö Church, Fårö Svens 1075, 624 66 Fårö
EAT: FÅRÖGÅRDEN
This is my favourite place to go to when we choose to go out. They serve breakfast, lunch and dinner with a sharp focus on organic local produce and beer from local brewers. The wine list is also great, with plenty of natural varieties. Make sure to book a table in advance.
Sylvis Dottrar is an institution. It serves Saffranspannkaka, a traditional almond and saffron cake served warm with whipped cream and dewberry jam. It also offers home-baked breads and cakes, salads and coffee. Eat in or take away but prepare for a long queue in the summer. Sylvis Döttrar bakery and cafe, Butleks 1526, 624 67 Fårö
DRINK: SUNDOWNER ON THE WEST COAST
When I’m in Gotland, I have my sundowner G&T with locally made gin. It’s simply the best gin, made from local juniper that grows wild everywhere on the islands.
Gotlands Ginfabrik (gotlandsginfabrik.se)
NORTH GOTLAND
Once I get to Fårö, I hardly ever want to leave — it has everything I need. But when the summers are rainy or the kids get restless — or we simply need a break from our routine — a 10-minute car ferry south to the main island of Gotland serves us well.
SLEEP: STAY AT FURILLEN A DESIGN HOTEL IN AN OLD FACTORY
If you get fed up with the spartan lifestyle you can always book a room at Fabriken Furillen, a high-end design hotel located in an old factory and famous for its dramatic vistas. It’s also a good spot for a day trip, with beautiful water to swim in nearby. (furillen.com)
SEE: KYLLAJ/SMÖJEN
A post-apocalyptic looking but beautiful place with a water-filled limestone quarry where we sometimes go to swim. The water is warmer than the ocean and there is no algae. There’s no place to buy ice cream around, no toilets nearby nor many people either. (guteinfo.com/?id=2935)
SEE: BRUCEBO
The national romantic home of the artist couple William Blair Bruce and Carolina Benedicks-Bruce. She was a sculptor and feminist pioneer, he was a painter originally from Canada. The house they built and designed in the beginning of the 1900s is full of their art and collected items, with beautiful details everywhere you look. Brucebo, Själsövägen 5, 622 76 Visby, Gotland (brucebo.se)
EAT: BUNGENÄS MATSAL, A RESTAURANT FOR FOODIES LOCATED IN AN FORMER MILITARY AREA
When you take the ferry over to mainland Gotland you come across a region called Bungenäs, a former military area now populated with artists, surfers, architects and others who have bought the old bunkers and transformed them into design homes. Here you also find Bungenäs Matsal, a restaurant with a secret, three-course menu and loved for its tasty food. It’s located just by the beach so don’t forget to bring your swimsuit. Bungenäs Matsal, Bungenäs, 62474 Fårösund
