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Camden, since 2013.
Where was your first flat in London?
It was in Hammersmith, along Milson Road. Not far from the Havelock Tavern … I used to go there an awful lot.
What was your first job ?
I spent a quiet three months at the Capital, patiently whipping egg whites for the pastry chef. When I was finally moved to the cold-starter section, the reality of kitchen life settled in. On my first day, the sous-chef asked me to make a lobster bisque and an amuse-bouche. That night, I couldn’t sleep at all, turning recipes over in my mind. By midday, exhaustion had taken over. I simply took my scooter, went home, and never returned.
Which shops do you rely on ?
My favourite spots to pick up bread are Bread By Bike and Salvino (conveniently positioned on the way home from work). La Fromagerie in Highbury is essential for properly aged comté — their ageing room is a temple to proper cheese. Labour and Wait on Redchurch Street for beautiful, functional kitchen tools that make cooking much more pleasurable. Longdan is where I go for Asian ingredients — I can lose hours in their aisles. And Phoenicia, in Kentish Town, is my go-to for everything Middle Eastern.
What’s the best meal you’ve had in the capital?
I have had many fancy meals, but where I really want to eat and have the most memorable meals is in simple, more traditional restaurants, which London does so well… I recently had a Malaysian meal with my friend and Ottolenghi recipe developer Helen Goh in Med Salleh Kopitiam. We had Nasi Lemak (always!), rojak, roti canai with chicken and curry. All the things I love.
Where do you go and what do you do to have fun?
It’s sad, but the most “fun” I have these days is with my kids. We live near Camden Market, so a stroll around there, following the canal to King’s Cross, is the best weekend treat. In the market, we often stop at Cyberdog, iconic in my clubbing years and still fun for my kids, although I need to work hard to keep them out of the risqué section.
Where do you exercise?
A small Pilates studio in Battersea that’s become my sanctuary. I’ve just started running in Regent’s Park (again!), which is less about fitness and more about clearing my head before the day starts. The morning fog lifting off the grass as the city wakes up…it’s a completely different London to the one just a few hours later.
What’s your London secret?
I’m not sure how much of a secret it is any more, but Master Wei. Guirong Wei is a Xi’an noodle specialist who has brought authentic Xi’an food, with its rich 2,000-year history, to the UK. It’s the sort of place to fly solo. A laid-back spot where you can slurp away, accompanied by a newspaper or headphones.
My London secret is Master Wei. Guirong Wei, who is a Xi’an noodle specialist who has brought authentic Xi’an food to the UK. It’s the sort of place to fly solo
What are you up to at the moment for work?
Splitting my time between our new Richmond restaurant, checking in with the team in Geneva, and writing my Substack. Geneva has been quite the adventure — our first spot outside of the UK. New produce, new chefs… it’s like starting from scratch in some ways. I’m learning as much as I’m teaching .
Who is your hero?
Loyle Carner — and no, not just because he has a song called Ottolenghi. He ran a cookery school for children with ADHD, showing young people how to find meaning in food and music. His passion for both is infectious — exactly what this industry needs.
What do you collect?
Ceramics — bowls specifically. Each one slightly different in shape or glaze. My kitchen shelves are slightly hazardous now, desperate for a clear-out I can’t bring myself to do. Every time I travel, I seem to bring back another one.
What was the last thing you googled?
“Weasley family cast”. I was checking what happened to the child actors playing the members of the family in the Harry Potter films. My kids wanted to know!
What apps can you not live without?
Citymapper saves me daily (London’s geography still confuses me) and, more generally, Notes — where I frantically type ideas for dishes before I forget them. My phone is full of half-sentences that only make sense to me: “yoghurt + burnt butter + something else?”, “try roasting the whole kohlrabi first, then frying”, “cardamom in the chocolate mousse!!!”. Having a place to capture ideas instantly is essential.
Ottolenghi Richmond is now open, ottolenghi.co.uk
