No wry anecdotes this week, no obscure references or jokes that only I find clever or funny. Today, I’m getting serious about xinomavro. If you haven’t heard of it, allow me to make its introduction, but if I’m already preaching to the choir, why are you still reading? Pour yourself a glass to have with lunch.
Derived from xino (meaning sour) and mavro (black), this is a grape with some serious gravitas. One of hundreds of grape varieties native to Greece, it has become the country’s flagship red, and is now most synonymous with the region of Naoussa in Macedonia, the first Greek wine region to be awarded a PDO (Protected Designation of Origin).
If you haven’t tried xinomavro and want to know what it tastes like, it’s a bit like a cross between a sort-of pinot noir and nebbiolo. Think bright-red fruit flavours with earthiness and firm tannins that signal a willingness and ability to age gracefully. Comparison only gets you so far, however, so while that might give you an idea of what to expect, xinomavro is also totally unique in and of itself. It’s layered, idiosyncratic – this is serious stuff.
And while xinomavro might be best known for producing red wines, it’s also used to make rosé and sparkling wine (think of the latter as Greek blanc de noirs; I suggested a particularly good one from Domaine Karanika last Christmas, which is both alluring and half the price of some of the grandes marques you get in the supermarket).
Half the bottles in today’s pick are ready-to-drink, easy sippers – you know the type: find them in a supermarket, then use them as a gateway into a new fascination. But if you’re a fan of mature, complex pinot or barolo, might I suggest a periodical scan of the Maltby & Greek website, a UK supplier of Greek produce, including a selection of wine from lesser-known (in the UK, at least) wineries, where just a few names dominate. Prices start in the late teens, but if you want to experience xinomavro’s ability to age, they’re certainly a step up from the supermarket offerings.
In terms of food, look at xinomavro, again, as you might a pinot noir or nebbiolo. It can handle white or pink meats with ease, though I prefer to drink it with food that’s a little more umami (which is typically a little harder to pair with), such as a mushroom risotto or goose with stuffing. It’s a wine that feels familiar, yes, but it’s not something that is made great by comparison. It’s time to take xinomavro seriously. Wry anecdotes will resume next week.
X marks the xinomavro spot
M&S Expressions Xinomavro £10.15 Ocado, 14%. Fruity and aromatic. Made by Kir-Yianni, who also makes Morrisons’ delectable own-label assyrtiko.
Thymiopoulos Atma Xinomavro £12.99 Waitrose, 13%. A real steal from a rising star in Greek wine. Silky forest fruit and good tannic structure.
Theopetra Estate Xinomavro Rosé 2023 £18.75 Strictly Wines, 12.5%. After four hours in contact with the xinomavro, this rosé gives fresh grapefruit with subtle herbaceousness.
Domaine Karanika Brut Rosé Xinomavro £26 Maltby & Greek, 11.5%. Imagine my delight when I learned they make a rosé cuvée. Not too sweet, not too sharp.
