Paris has no shortage of world class luxury hotels and is home to many famous names such as the Four Seasons George V, Ritz, Park Hyatt Paris-Vendome, Crillon, Meurice and Plaza Athenee, among others. But many leisure travelers are less familiar with the Hotel Prince des Galles, and that is a mistake. Not only is it one of the best hotels in the city, it may well have the single best luxury accommodation offering in all of Paris, the over the top Lalique Suite.
Fortunately, while it lacks the popular name recognition of its peers, the quality of the property is quite well-known inside the travel industry, so if you use a top travel agent or advisor (you should) the Prince de Galles will come as no surprise. Travel + Leisure ranked it the fifth best hotel in the city, ahead of most of the famous names above.
None of these hotels will disappoint, but there are some concrete advantages to the Prince de Galles - especially now and in the near future. First, it has an intimate, residential feel, unlike the “grand” hotels filled with boutiques whose lobbies and bars are tourist attractions in their own rights, meaning the public spaces are constantly packed with non-guests. I prefer walking into a hotel to entering a circus, but since the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic it seems just about everyone wants more personal space and privacy. Quite the opposite of frenetic, this hotel has an oasis feel, and in this vein, one key secret weapon is its hidden, open air central interior courtyard that serves both the excellent French restaurant and topnotch hotel bar, so that at a time when indoor dining was undesirable, I was able to enjoy a wonderful and perfectly Parisian meal outdoors - without ever leaving the hotel.
Also notable is that the property is part of Marriott’s (formerly Starwood) top tier Luxury Collection, which means you can use your points in the biggest and highest rated hotel loyalty program, Bonvoy, to stay here (or earn more).
But most important is the hotel’s client base, which has long traditionally been a leisure audience with business travelers comprising just 15-20% of the volume. Many expense account visitors reflexively book hotels like the Four Seasons George V - literally right next door - which is also a favorite of mine, but this definitely changes the atmosphere, especially in the bars and restaurants.
Historically about half the guests have been Americans, the most important audience for the hotel. This matters because Paris is one of the world’s most popular and beloved tourism cities, and as travel returns towards normalcy, it will be at the top of many people’s European wish list. These travelers with money who are eager to get back out and see the City of Light increasingly include those from more recently growing luxury markets such as China, Russia, Brazil, India, Singapore and other spots, all competing more and more for luxury brand names and driving up occupancy and prices at the most famous hotels.
Those are some advantages that set the Prince de Galles apart from others in the city, but what are its intrinsic charms?
The location (identical to that of the George V) is perfect for a leisure audience, a short walk to the Arc de Triomphe, just off the Champs-Elysees and extremely close to the luxury and fashion shopping epicenter of the city. It is a historic property built in 1929, famous for its art deco aesthetic. This was brought painstakingly back to life during a detailed 2-year top to bottom renovation in 2014, with more work recently, and it is hard not to be impressed with the rooms, which are spacious by any standards and boast impressive touches such as striped inlaid wood closets, and huge marble bathrooms with separate oversized soaking tubs and walk-in showers featuring extensive tile mosaics. A higher percentage of the rooms are suites than at most luxury hotels, and there are no “junior” versions - in a world that is dumbing down the word, all suites here have true living rooms - often very large ones. Many rooms face the four-sided courtyard for a rare “garden view” in the city, and those that do not overlook one of the most fashionable streets in Paris, Avenue George V. Most rooms on the seventh and eighth floors have full furnished private terraces over the courtyard.
All accommodations have a classic grandeur but with full modern appointments, including Nespresso machines. Immediately after checking in, I was already on my second café when the bellman arrived. He subtly noticed and returned minutes later with a silver tray of extra capsules and bottled water - that’s the kind of personal attentive service I experienced here at every turn.
Cool period art is found all throughout the public spaces and guest rooms, and hallways are lined with black and white photos of Chanel models from the Thirties, reinforcing the theme. Because the hotel goes for this Roaring Twenties and Thirties are deco influenced flair, it has partnered with companies that resonate the same theme, including famed French crystal maker Lalique, who supplies all the luxe toiletries for the bathrooms. But the piece de resistance is the stunning Lalique Suite, added just two years ago and essentially brand new (given the pandemic). It spans two floors - including the entire top (ninth) floor of the building and has both a spiral staircase and private internal elevator. The apartment style residence has all custom furniture, Loro Piano fabrics, a ton of art, and a full dining room with complete bar, and of course, lots of Lalique crystal. Because it towers above all the surrounding buildings, when the automated curtains open big windows reveal a great view of the Eiffel Tower - you can even see it from the enormous tub.
But the real selling point is the outdoor terraces, more than 1000 square feet in all, wrapping around with separated spaces, tables and chaise lounges, offering both inside (courtyard) and outside (Eiffel Tower cityscape) views in multiple directions. The outdoor space of this suite is bigger than some rooftop public hotel bars I have been to. Staying here ($15,000 nightly) is like having your own luxury apartment in Paris, though few have views like these.
Dining options include Le Patio, which I loved. Sort of positioned between a stuffy Paris fine dining restaurant and upscale take on a brasserie, it elegantly delivers a genuine taste and experience of the city in a warm and relaxed way, especially with the garden seating. Next to this is the 1920 Bar, a fancy classic lounge with a focus on craft cocktails and also a breakfast venue. Lamenting the fact that cognac has fallen out of fashion with the current French marketplace, the bar is bent on bringing it back, and has amassed a vast collection, including rare and private bottlings, and offers a variety of tasting flight options with expert guidance. This a great way to explore France’s luxury spirit, and the kind of unique and memorable experience travelers are seeking out these days. The newest addition is an output of the eponymous Akira Back, from the red-hot Seoul-born Michelin-starred chef who specializes in a Korean-influenced take on Japanese fine dining. Scheduled for a December opening ahead of the holiday season, this will be Back’s first and only location in Europe.
Having stayed in many of the city’s finest hotels over the years, I was very impressed with the Prince de Galles, and loved the “coming home” feeling you get from the intimate lobby and friendly staff. The one shortcoming that may be a deal breaker for some travelers is the lack of a true spa and pool. Instead, there is a single fancy Wellness Suite, in partnership with very high-end Unique Elixir Paris, complete with private hammam and shower. It is a top-notch facility, but there is just one. However, there are a full slate of in-room spa treatments offered, and a fully equipped fitness center with top shelf equipment.
