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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Rudolf Abraham

Winter wonderland: why Austria is a dream destination

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Winter light over Lech am Arlberg. Photograph: 4Corners Images

On the slopes
It’s hardly news that Austria is a world-class ski destination, but what does that mean in practice?

Well first – and most importantly – snow conditions in the Austrian Alps are excellent and last well into the spring. Austria has made the most of this, with 400 resorts sporting more than a thousand miles of impeccably groomed slopes, and seemingly limitless scope for freeriding.

The infrastructure is also second to none, with state-of-the-art lifts and hire equipment, and top-notch ski schools – many of which can look back on a long pedigree, such as St Anton am Arlberg, whose ski school was established in the early 1920s.

Add to this a wonderful tradition of hospitality, good value for money, and some of the most beautiful scenery in Europe, and it’s hardly surprising that Austria has a reputation as one of the best destinations for a ski holiday anywhere in the world.

So, that being established, which region should you head for?

A chairlift heading up a mountain
  • Photograph: Getty Images

If you’re looking for something small and boutique, ski resorts such as St Johann in Salzburg or St Johann in Tirol offer pretty, festive towns, and less-crowded slopes. At the other end of the spectrum there are huge ski areas such as Skicircus (encompassing Saalbach Hinterglemm, Leogang and Fieberbrunn) and the Arlberg region. In Innsbruck, the Nordkettenbahn (cable car) will whisk you from the historic city centre to the slopes of the Hafelekarspitze in less than 30 minutes, while Zell am See and Kappl are wonderfully accessible family resorts.

The snowy fun isn’t limited to skiing and snowboarding either; there are oodles of marked snowshoeing trails to follow, cross-country ski tracks all over the country, and thrilling toboggan runs – the most spectacular of which is the floodlit Wildkogel, the world’s longest night-time run.

Snowy view of the city of Salzburg
  • The historic city of Salzburg. Photograph: Getty Images

Off-piste
But even if skiing’s not your thing, Austria still has plenty to offer the winter traveller. Awash with cultural sites, stunning architecture, Unesco-listed monuments, museums and galleries – not to mention a slew of top-notch spas – there’s no chance of being short of things to see and do.

If you’re looking for history and culture, head to the big cities. Salzburg’s Unesco-listed old city is a pure delight, with its beautiful baroque architecture, fairytale castle perched on a hill, and Mozart’s birth house. In Innsbruck you’ll find the Golden Roof, a balcony covered with gilded tiles, completed in 1500 for Emperor Maximillian I, while Graz is home to the Kunsthaus Art Museum – known locally as the “friendly alien” – a dazzling piece of contemporary architecture in itself. In Linz, Austria’s fifth largest city, there’s the excellent Ars Electronica Centre, the changing colours of its giant LED facade reflecting in the Danube.

Then there’s Austria’s grand capital, Vienna – known as both the city of music and the city of dreams, thanks to its famous former residents, Beethoven, Mozart and Sigmund Freud. One of Europe’s historic cultural centres, Vienna is home to several of the country’s best museums, including the Leopold Museum, with its unmatched collection of works by Egon Schiele and Gustav Klimt, and the Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien, home to the world’s largest collection of works by Bruegel.

A stallion at the Spanish Riding School
A pool at a spa retreat
  • Stallion at the Spanish Riding School. Photograph: Getty Images; Austria’s spa retreats offer high-end relaxation. Photograph: Harald Eisenberger/Austrian National Tourist Office

You’ll also find the Unesco-listed Schönbrunn Palace, built as the lavish summer residence of the Habsburgs, and the Spanish Riding School, where you can see the Ballet of the White Stallions. And if this all sounds rather tiring, fear not, as the city’s famous coffee houses will provide all the caffeine and delectable delights you need to fuel your tour.

Meanwhile, if the pace of city life is exactly what you’re looking to escape from altogether, Austria has you covered too. A spa destination since Roman times thanks to its natural thermal springs, Austria has turned deep relaxation into an art form, combining luxurious wellness centres with awe-inspiring views. The jewel in its crown is undoubtedly the Aqua Dome Tirol Therme Längenfeld; futuristic and surrounded by mountains, it’s a world away from the everyday, and the ideal place to soak away your stresses.

Salzburg Chrismas market
  • Salzburg Christmas market. Photograph: Michael Stabentheiner/Austrian National Tourist Office

Festive fun
Snow-covered roofs, twinkling fairy lights, stalls selling traditional handicrafts, and the warming scent of gingerbread and mulled wine in the air – if you’re looking to immerse yourself in the spirit of the season, Austria is the place. While the main cities are home to the biggest Christmas markets, if you’re looking for hidden treasures, it’s worth heading out into the smaller cities and towns, where you’ll find more intimate set-ups complete with local flavour and picturesque views.

And the festivities don’t stop there. Austria’s New Year’s Eve celebrations are legendary. If waltzing in the new year to the strains of The Blue Danube sounds like your kind of fun, head to Vienna, where the old city centre turns into one big party, with live music and festivities going on through to the early hours. Meanwhile, Innsbruck sees in the new year with brass band parades, and Salzburg puts on concerts and DJs in its grand central square, the Residenzplatz.

A brightly-lit chalet at night in the snow
  • Photogrpah: Michael Stabentheiner/Austrian National Tourist Office

Gemütlichkeit
Austrian hospitality is renowned, so it should come as no surprise that there’s a specific word to describe that welcoming feeling of warmth, friendliness and good cheer.

One of those Germanic words with no easy, direct translation in English, gemütlichkeit is a state of being – and a very good one at that. Described as the feeling of being wrapped in a toasty warm blanket after coming in from the cold and the snow, it is the epitome of winter contentment.

And whether you hit the slopes or big cities, spend your trip in a spa or waltzing in the new year, the kind of atmosphere that makes you feel instantly at home, and quite possibly, like you never want to leave, is something you’ll find absolutely no shortage of in Austria’s winter wonderland.

From magical Christmas markets to world-class skiing, epic new year celebrations to spectacular spas, fall in love with everything winter has to offer, with an unforgettable trip to Austria. Plan your perfect trip at austria.info/en/winter

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