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The Independent UK

Annabel Grossman

Wildwaters Lodge Uganda hotel review

Uganda Nile

This private island lodge is a nature-filled haven on the River Nile in eastern Uganda, which immerses its guests in nature while also feeling wonderfully luxurious

Location

You’re staying on the Nile – and I mean right on it. The hotel has been built on Kalagala, a small private island in eastern Uganda, a short boat ride from the mainland. This section of the Nile is known for its white water, and Wildwaters brings you about as close as you can to it. The lodge feels remote, yet is actually reasonably easy to reach. The nearest town is Jinja, once a popular stop on the backpacker trail thanks to its white-water rafting and kayaking, but now with significantly fewer visitors. The closest airport is Entebbe, which is near to the capital Kampala, and roughly 130 kilometres from Wildwaters. Traffic-dependent, the drive from Entebbe airport to the hotel is around three hours and best done by taxi.

The lodge – a short boat ride from the mainland – is situated on high-grade rapids (Lemala Camps and Lodges)

The vibe

Rustic luxury. Wildwaters feels like your own secret haven, hidden away in the jungle. Although the hotel goes above and beyond to provide everything you need for a comfortable stay, you’ll feel like you’re out in the wild. Rooms are on stilts over the river with its roaring rapids, and the restaurant, library and pool feel as though they’re sitting right on the water; they’re linked by wooden walkways on stilts over the river, surrounded by lush green jungle. Walking back to your room at night you’ll be surrounded by a cacophony of wildlife sounds. It is worth noting that, although Wildwaters is a high-quality hotel with a luxe feel, this is the jungle, and if you get squeamish about bugs or anxious about patchy wifi then it’s probably not the hotel for you. If you love nature and adventure, you’ll be in heaven.

Service

Beyond being attentive, service feels friendly, relaxed and genuinely warm. Wildwaters has found that perfect balance of making guests feel completely taken care of while also being laidback. Everyone, from the boatmen who take you from the mainland to the waiting staff and the general manager, will know your name and be happy to chat, while also being completely unobtrusive. When you want to return to your room from the restaurant after dinner, staff will almost magically appear with a torch and guide you. Activities and requests are arranged swiftly, and transport to and from the island is seamless.

Bed and bath

The 10 rooms are all in their own little villas, each with wonderful views over the raging waters of the Nile. You’ll be lulled to sleep by the rush of the rapids (nature’s white noise) in beautifully comfortable beds draped with mosquito nets. Full-length glass doors lead out to large wooden balconies, each with an outdoor bathtub (wooden screens ensure complete privacy) overlooking the river. There are no bad views here, and it’s hard to decide which room has the best. There are seven standard suites, two suites with private plunge pools and one two-bedroom suite. The decor and design is perfectly suited to the rainforest with lots of wood and neutral tones, and the bathrooms in particular are almost seamlessly integrated into the landscape with the rain showers appearing to have been built into the rock.

The rooms feel seamlessly integrated into their surroundings and there are no bad views (Lemala Camps and Lodges)

Food and drink

Meals are eaten at the hotel’s spacious open restaurant with beautiful views of the rapids. It serves both African dishes and an international menu, with options such as beef wellington, mushroom risotto and beef carpaccio. I’d strongly recommend opting for the African menu, which mainly consists of stews. The Nkoko Nganda stew and fresh peas stew served with rice or posho (a starchy, boiled corn meal) and mixed greens were both simple yet carefully prepared with fresh ingredients. In comparison, the international dishes are over-complicated and rather underwhelming. There are plenty of vegan and vegetarian options (again, the African menu is better for these) and a good number of dishes are gluten-free.

Breakfast is a very pleasant affair with a small buffet of pastries and fresh fruits, as well as an a la carte menu with classics such as eggs benedict, omelette, French toast and crepes. The wine list is limited and not particularly refined, but if you’re happy with a glass of Hardys to accompany sunset looking over the Nile, you’ll be more than happy.

Facilities

There is a small pool located by the restaurant overlooking the river with a few sunbeds. The library is a lovely place to relax with a book or a coffee (although it doesn’t appear to hold many itself, so bring your own) with gorgeous heavy wooden furniture and spectacular views of the river. There is a spa with a small selection of massages delivered on your balcony overlooking the river for an impressive wellness experience.

When in this part of the world you’ll want to explore the Nile, and the hotel offers high-adrenaline white-water rafting trips that are suitable for all levels, as well as kayaking and horse riding. There is also a (somewhat unsightly) bungee-jumping platform a short distance away on the mainland, and this activity can be booked at the hotel. Uganda’s bird watching is legendary (arguably some of the best in the world) and there are plenty of opportunities to spot one of the many species from around the lodge, but you can also arrange tours in nearby Jinja.

The restaurant, bar and boutique open out onto the river with beautiful views on all sides (Lemala Camps and Lodges)

Accessibility

Provisions for those with disabilities are limited, with no accessible or adapted rooms.

Pet policy

No pets allowed.

Check in/check out?

Check in from 2pm; check out by 10am.

Family-friendly?

Due to being situated on particularly strong rapids, Wildwaters is not suited to young children. The hotel currently allows children from the age of 12 but from June 2025, it will only allow guests aged 16 and over.