In the year 1428 in France, an illiterate 16-year shepherd girl, who sometimes helped her mother spin yarn, became unequivocally certain—apparently through epiphanies in the countryside—that she was born to save France.
Her realization was timely, as France then needed a savior.
The Hundred Years’ War between France and England commenced in 1337. It would not end until the year 1453 (‘hundred’ being linguistically inaccurate).
Western central France is transected by bucolic, slow-wending waters of the river Loire (pronounced LOW-ahhr). Today this region is dotted with magnificent stone châteaux and coated by vineyards. In the 15th century, however, the terrain was wilder and rougher and the Loire River divided warring factions: English to the north, and the French southward. The city of Orléans, poised on the river, formed a hinge on which power could swing either way. The city was, as of October of 1428, besieged by the English.
This young woman—Jeanne d’Arc, or Joan of Arc—incited internally by voices of saints, traveled from her village of Domrémy to the town of Vaucouleurs. There, she urged a garrison captain to let her join the military forces of Charles of France so she could fight the forces of England’s Henry VI. Likely bewildered, the captain sent her home. She returned the next year—this time emboldened with confidence, determination and the support of locals. She convinced the captain to re-think her admission to his ranks. Convinced by her certainty and local input, he allowed Joan to join his forces. Disguised as a man, she traveled with other soldiers to the city of Chinon. There, French forces questioned her, accepted her, and sent her onward to the city of Poitiers. Joan prophesized that it would be in the city of Orléans where her powers would be tested, and proven. Soon, she and hundreds of troops headed to that city under siege.
In Orléans in April of 1429—supposedly—Joan helped convinced the besieged French not to be on the defensive, but to seize offensive positions against the English. Heeding advice from the young shepherdess—the French did so, and soon routed the English. During the skirmish, Joan was injured by an arrow—testifying to her bravery. After nine decades of fighting, psychological advantage was now with the French. It would eventually help carry them to victory at the battle at Castillon in Bordeaux in 1453—the final battle of the Hundred Years’ War.
But a year after success at Orléans, Joan was captured, set up in a mock trial by the English, condemned and—at the tender age of 19 years—burned at the stake at the end of May, 1431. That harsh event also burned the memory of this martyr into the collective consciousness of the people of France. In memory of Joan, each May the city of Orléans holds a festival that includes medieval markets, light shows, parades and concerts.
Why visit Orléans after current travel restrictions relax? Weeks ago, I visited to find out.
Orléans—a city of white stone buildings—is peppered with statues and stain glass images of Joan of Arc. Buildings are generally low, and many streets are wide. Ancient, half-timbered building walls are often multicolored—pale pink or, say, bright yellow. The Orléans Métropole tram system (its initials ‘TAO’ are fittingly displayed in Asian font) includes gold-colored carriages that whistle over sometimes sloping and often cobbled streets—such as Rue de Republique. Blends of modern and traditional architecture surround impressive open plazas.
This city is a multicultural nexus with residents resoundingly proud of their heritage and open spaces. There are open-air markets throughout, and one municipal park includes over 900 varieties of irises, roses and other flowers.
Book a waterside hotel, if possible. The pedestrian walkway next to the Loire is dozens of feet wide, the bicycle path is ample, and the city has even placed robust hammocks by the waterway. As in the city of Bordeaux, there are plenty of hidden plazas to discover unexpectedly. Orléans appears more contemporary than Poitiers, livelier than Angouleme and not as frenetic as Paris. It is generally clean and well-tended; non-ostentatious wealth is evident, and good taste in decor and architecture prevail. Residents’ attire is a meld of Atlantic-seaboard-casual and more formal Burgundian-prim.
Wander, and you find that outdoor markets are never far. You will pass blossoming flower planters, a riverside packed with trees and maybe a modest fountain within the Louis Pasteur garden.
On Rue Louis Rouget I passed boutique stores (‘Zen & Bell,’ and ‘Bijoux Sic-Art’) then bought a cookbook at a small store named La Boîte a Livres along the cobbled and angular Rue de Bourgogne. From there, while bells clanged from the cathedral of Saint-Croix d’Orléans, I strolled along Rue Jeanne d’Arc toward the Museum of History and Archaeology (check in advance whether it is open), and then down to the Place de Martoi, with its looming statue of young Joan on horseback.
Ditch any guidebook, then indulge in wandering until your feet are sore, your wallet depleted from spontaneous chocolate or ceramics shopping, and your stomach ready for local fare. Try olivet cheese (similar to camembert) and wine either from the Orléans, or Orléans-Clery appellations (the white is Chardonnay; reds are Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc or Pinot Meunier). Walk to the Loire riverside and picnic at a table or on a bench. Both local and long-distance cyclists will pass, as the city is along a 500-mile (800 kilometer) series of bicycle trails along the Loire valley.
Spread out your food, raise a glass and toast—santé!—to the young shepherdess who, almost six centuries ago, sacrificed her life to help save the country she loved
